Thread: B13, B14, B15 Suspension Information...

Suspension Products for Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec-V Brembo Brakes 2004

So Tirerack sells Koni yellows for the B15 Spec V..

they have several different types:
for the front, they show a cartridge insert type that are externally adjustable for vehicles with 44mm O.D. struts.
part number: 8610-1409SPORT - the part number we need for B13 front strut housings

for rear fitment it shows a strut that comes with a shock housing, twin tulbe hydraulic standard adjustable shock absorber.
part number: 80-2838SPORT won't work on B13 - right??


we just want to use front B15 inserts all around right? I already know I need to use front B13 OEM housings all around..

how does this work? #1 #2 or #3..

I'm thinking #3...

#1

#2

#3

IMO, this is NOT how it is done properly because you are essentially "doubling up" on bump stops with the above setup.. (unless Isfahan pulled the OEM bump stop and didn't fit the Koni bump stop inside the OE dust boot for some reason)







The whole reason for using the B13 OEM front dust boots (even in the rear) is that you can remove the OE bump stop (on right in pic below) and replace it with the Koni Bump stop (in the middle on pic below)

the boot on the left is a B13 OE front dust boot without any bump stop. It turns out, this is what Isfahan was doing with those original pics.. (which i modified with read ghostbusters emblem) which doesnt' double up the bump stops anymore. But with this setup, the koni bump stop material is not directly hitting the strut. Instead the (relatively) thin rubber top of the dust boot would serve as first line of protection in a hard bump. The conical shape of the inside of the koni bump stop wouldn't get used, nor its "special" material that cost $75 for all 4 corners..

here is an "aerial" view of the bottom of the front bump stops:

left to right:
no bump stop - koni bump stop - OEM bump stop

Shawn, you might want to remove, or at least add a warning to all Overkill Engineering Motorsports products you have listed in this monster thread.
Sorry to add to your workload. =/

Deleted they are....

Thanks for the heads-up.

I have question that has not been answered here....unless I missed
I posted here to hopefully supplement this threads info.
Hopefully people will notice this or I will have toi do a new thread.

So if you go with a shortened strut like the Konis(CSK),you gain back lost travel from lowereing the car.
OK...Got that.
BUT
...If you have that travel back and the car is lowered,what about fender clearance,and bumpsteer?
Reason I ask is now the car will go lower when the suspension compresses.So that means there is a chance of rubbing more places in the wheel well...like the inner splash guards?
Would you need to roll the fenders for more clearance since the whell will go up in there farther?
For example...I have aRM/AGX now,fenders rolled innner lip.The car rarely hits the bumpstops,but it would hit them before the tire could rub.If I go to a CSK,will it compress more and rub if I dont roll the fender(more)?

Also wondering if the increased travel of the CSK would induce more bumpsteer,since the suspension can travel farther into the "bumpsteer zone" if you know what I mean.

You are correct.

Edit: Let me clarify. If you gow ith CSK to get the travel back, and install shorter springs then you will have to worry about fender clearance and bumpsteer. If you go with CSK and maintain taller springs like RM, Hyperco or stock then you won't be any lower than you would normally and won't have to worry about problems associated with going lower.

Traditional fender rolling (rolling the edge normally sitting at a 90 degree angle to the visible portion of the fender all the way around so it is 180 degrees or pressed up against the outer fender metal like a folded piece of paper) is not usually needed when you go lower if you didn't need it before when you were higher. If you didn't rub hitting pumps or during heavy lean situations before, then you're likely not going to rub that section of the fender ever anyway. It is only when you go wider with your track that you run into these issues. Too confusing?

First off, that is the traditional fender rolling I was talking about so we're on the same page there.
If you go to a CSK the tire will go up into the fender well about an inch more at rest, and likely travel further up into the fender than it did before when hitting bumps or leaning. If the bump stop used to be stopping the tire from hitting the fender well, it will no longer perform that job as early as it did before and your possibility for hitting the fender well gets greater as you'd expect.

Yes, you'll have more bumpsteer just as you expected.

Edit: Only during those rare times when the wheel goes far up into the fender well will you experience more bumpsteer. If you keep your springs the same, it won't really be a factor. If you take advantage of the additional travel by going with shorter springs then you will experience more bumpsteer all the time.

hmmm thanks

What about balljoint wear and other front end stuff with the extra range of movement?

Ball joint wear is much more dependent on scrub radius, and increasing the distance between the outer edge of the wheel/tire combo and the ball joint (gives a more powerful lever to act on the ball joint). Both usually increase when going with wider wheels and more aggressive offsets. I wouldn't expect lowering the car to change the life much as long as you're not running into bind. The other joints should be fine too like the outer and inner tie-rod ends, again as long as you avoid bind.

Lowering the car does change the angle the CV joint operates though, and that does hinder the life of the CV joint. CV joint life really suffers as you go lower because the CV joint is forced to work at some angle during cruising hastening wear quite a bit. CV joints wear least at zero angle and wear increases dramatically as they are forced to transmit torque at their extremes. Having the CV joint constantly at some type of angle hinders life. The reason axles don't last long for road race guys? They are always putting torque through them in corners when they are at extreme angles.

Very bad angles for CV joint life:

http://www.torvec.com/images/Next_Gen_CVJ/Half_Shaft_angle.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a192/JesZeK/Repairs/ConstantVelocityJoint.gif

Very good angle for CV joint life:

http://www.torvec.com/images/Next_Gen_CVJ/Half_Shaft.jpg