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Thread: B13, B14, B15 Suspension Information...

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Posts: 11-20 of 162
2008-01-08 04:40:13
#11
VII. Camber Kits

(Applications: B13, B14, B15)

What the hell is camber? - Good question. From this web-site: TurnFast! • Glossary
Originally Posted by Turnfast.com
Camber-- looking at the front of a car, imagine the top of the wheel tipped inward so the top is closer to the vehicle center than the bottom. This angle is called camber. If the top of the wheel is tipped inward, it is called negative camber. If the top of the wheel is tipped outward it is called positive camber. If the wheel is straight it is called zero camber. Maintaining zero camber provides the largest contact patch, however during cornering, the tires roll decreasing contact patch, and the suspension geometry changes which further reduces the contact patch. To counteract this, a car set up for maximum cornering grip usually has a small amount of negative camber from 3/4 of a degree for street/track setups to as much as 3 degrees for dedicated race cars. Too much camber reduces traction during braking (and accelerating for a FWD car).

From here, sentra.net
NOTE: Understand that some information contained in that link is...dated. This article was written by Mike before Hyperco, let alone Road Magnet springs. You have to view some of the information, specifically on commercially available springs (H&R, Eibach) and products (NuTech is out of business), in that article with a historical perspective. However, all of the rest of the info is dead accurate today, still very relevant, and it's brilliant. Like this for instance:
Originally Posted by Mike
Having adjustably is good. Having the ability to adjust shocks, camber and toe is very useful when trying to extract G’s from your car. On a showroom stock racer I was working on, optimizing the alignment and tire pressures alone made the car go from 0.79 to 0.86 g’s on the skidpad and 3 seconds a lap faster at Willow Springs. As front camber is not adjustable on our cars it is important to make it so. Stillen, Cusco and Ground Control make high quality camber plates, the Ground Control being the best of these as they give you 1/2" more wheel travel and the ability to adjust caster. Camber Plates will slightly harshen your ride but will sharpen turn in due to the elimination of squishy rubber with metal bearings. Rear camber adjustably is not critical on most FWD cars. If you are on a tight budget and cannot afford camber plates, you can use The Poor Boy Method for adjustable camber! To make poor boy adjustable camber, you can drill out one of the two strut to spindle bolt holes on the strut housing by about 1/16" This will get you a couple of degrees of camber adjustment. Camber bolts or crash bolts as they are sometimes called should not be used as they slip under high load. If you are racing Solo II stock class or Showroom stock and don’t want to cheat, you can get about ½ degree more negative camber by loosening all of the suspension bolts and having someone hold the wheel in the negative position while you retighten everything. When adjusting camber, be sure to reset your toe adjustment as it will also change when you adjust camber.


Now that we know what camber is, lets look at hardware to adjust it on a B13 vehicle.

Camber bolts or "crash bolts" - A few companies make "kits", Eibach, Whiteline, Ingalls, etc..... Pretty lame way to adjust camber, it will shift under heavy load. If you are serious about autocross or road racing, you will buy a set of camber plates.

Here's a good thread on camber or crash bolts:
camber bolts anyway had/have these? - SR20 Forum
Pay attention to BigB and Jerryeads.
Here's another:
camber adjustment - SR20 Forum

Cusco - 404?????????????????????????
empower99 provided these excellent photos, thank you Fred:



Originally Posted by Cusco
PILLOW BALL UPPER MOUNT
FEATURES
Controls unwanted forces under acceleration
and braking
Common to both center look and camber adjustable type improves steering response and performance. Stable steering response in esesse and lane changing improved stability over bumps and holds roll in corners. Enables linear handling and keeps you on the record line better. Stability and safety during turn-ins and under braking.
SPECIFICATION
Available for both center lock and camber adjustable types
6mm thick plate made from 2017S heat treated aircraft grade aluminum.
Various pillow collars available to suit your needs.
CAMBER ADJUSTMENT
Camber adjustable by sliding the plate and
pillow ball sections

Originally Posted by empower99
The average price for Cusco mounts is $250. The lowest price I've seen them is $230 (which is what I paid), the highest is the Stillen rebadged plates at $270.


Ground Control - Ground Control - Street and race suspension systems for your car.

Ground Control camber plates work with coilover springs only. They do not work with Nissan stock or direct replacement springs.

Originally Posted by Ground
More camber adjustment than stock, caster adjustment, aircraft bearings, engraved with calibrated degrees, with stainless steel reinforcement. Every component is anodized or plated, including fasteners. Adds extra travel to avoid excessive bottoming out, this is a very well engineered product. The stainless steel reinforcement prevents electrolysis between the steel fender and the aluminum camber plate.
Camber and caster are separately adjustable by sliding the mounts, without removing any components from the car. The priority of this design is to allow fast, repeatable alignment changes at the track.
The Ground Control camber plates feature two sets of bearings, a proprietary bearing, made to our specs by Aurora in the USA, which allows for articulation of the shock shaft. This spherical bearing is very understressed, as the Ground Control design does NOT support the weight of the car on the spherical bearing. Instead, the weight of the car is supported by a completely separate articulating needle bearing, which is also manufactured for Ground Control in the USA


MSRP: $349.00 per set.


Ingalls - Modern Engineering & Modern Technology for Modern Performance Vehicles - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.
This is slightly over my head. However, it allows you to adjust the camber in the rear of the B13 chassis. Cusco, Ground Control, and Stillen plates are for the front end.
Originally Posted by SE-R_Dan
These Ingalls rear parallel (radius) arms allow rear camber adjustment on the B13. They're also tubular and much stronger than the stock sheetmetal

From this thread: B13 Rear Camber Adjustment - SR20 Forum

This product and thread is beyond my limited grasp, however if you consider these aftermarket radius arms you probably know a lot more than I do. This was posted in the "Autocross, Rally, & Road Racing" section of the forum for a reason.

What else can I do to adjust rear camber? This thread answers your question:
rear camber - SR20 Forum


Stillen - Re-badged Cusco units. No longer available from Stillen. Check the forum classifieds for pre-owned product.
Last edited by Shawn B on 2011-02-19 at 02-54-38.
2008-01-08 04:40:40
#12
VIII. A Few Words About Wheels & Tires

(Applications: B13, B14, B15)

Thee single most dramatic thing you can do to improve your suspension is to upgrade your wheel and tire combination.

Unsprung weight - Consists of anything not supported by the springs. Your tires, wheels, and brakes make up the majority of unsprung weight. You want to minimize unsprung weight.

How to do your own alignment - You just put on your new suspension. Now go get it aligned at a reputable shop.

Another option is to do it yourself. 98sr20ve conducting class, please pay attention: How to do your own Alignment. - SR20 Forum

How are wheel width and diameter measured?



What size wheels should I buy? Your best performance bet is 15" lightweight wheels. 4 X 100 pattern, you have a bazillion choices for the B13 chassis. Tires are less expensive for the 15" wheel size.

16" rims may look cool, but tire selection is extremely limited.

17" (+) wheels suck for performance, it is more unsprung weight. More expensive tires. If you go bigger than 17" rims on a B13? Prepare to be flamed for being a total Uncle Ben's Ricer.

From this link: sentra.net
NOTE: Understand that some information contained in that link is...dated. This article was written by Mike before Hyperco, let alone Road Magnet springs. You have to view some of the information, specifically on commercially available springs (H&R, Eibach, etc.) and products (NuTech is out of business, etc.), in that article with a historical perspective. However, all of the rest of the info is dead accurate today, still very relevant, and it's brilliant. Like this for instance:
Originally Posted by Mike
Don’t over tire or wheel your car. Our cars will go the fastest and handle best with the widest, lightest 15 inch wheel that will fit. 16, 17 and 18 inch wheels which look radical, really slow the car down because they are heavy and the bigger diameter screws up the gear ratio.... The widest tire that you should run unless you have a turbo or some other ungodly power is a 205. Wider tires will result in more drag than our relatively low power engines can accelerate. A 205/50-15 works well in most cases and a wide variety of R compound tires are available in this size. The maximum rim width that the B14/B15 can run is 7.5 inches with a 35-40 mm offset. A Classic B13 can run a 7-inch rim with a 30-35 mm offset as there is less wheel clearance in the rear of a B13. Since this always comes up, the bolt circle measurement on our wheels is 4x100 mm. The competition wheel that impresses me the most is the Volk TE37. This wheel is forged so it can be much thinner than a cast type wheel. It weighs a feathery 9 lbs which is twice as light as a regular wheel. The other good light wheel is the Enkei RPO-1 it weighs about 13 lbs which is still very light. Remember that 1 lb on the wheel is worth about 10 on the car due to the wheels rotational Inertia. We took 0.4 seconds off of Mike Saiki’s ¼ mile time just by going from 16 inch Axis wheels to 15 inch TE37’s. The difference is all in the wheel weight and tire diameter.

Originally Posted by Sport
MYTH #9: BIG WHEELS MEAN BIG PERFORMANCE

The Truth: Remember when you first moved up from a BMX bike to full-size mountain bike? Remember how hard it was to pedal? Gear ratio aside, it takes a lot more work to accelerate a larger diameter wheel because of the added rotational inertia. Rotational inertia (how difficult an object is to start or stop spinning) is affected by mass and radius. In the case of a wheel, the radius has an exponentially larger effect on rotational inertia than wieght alone. For example, the one inch difference in diameter between a 17- and 18-inch wheel has the same effect on the wheel's rotational inertia as increasing its weight by 10 percent at the outer radius. The effect is even greater going from an 18- to a 19-inch wheel.

Bigger wheels also weigh more. Although unsprung weight (any vehicle weight not held up by the suspension) isn't such a significant factor on the street, at the track, taking as much weight as possible off each corner will have a huge impact on lap times. The math reveals that every pound of unsprung weight is equivalent to adding 1.4 or more pounds to the chassis (sprung weight). As with rotational inertia, this effect is amplified as the wheel diameter increases.

The Fix: We don't like anything larger than 18 inches in diameter. For most smaller sport compacts, 17-inch wheels are more than enough. Look for the lightest, widest wheels that clear your suspension and fenders. If price is a limitation, sacrifice weight before width. A wide wheel means more tire and grip, but also more mass at the outer radius and therefore more roatational inertia. There is always a tradeoff. (Author James Chen).

Originally Posted by Sport
The 16X7-inch Black Racing N1 wheels we installed last century (1997) were reasonably light for cast wheels at 15 pounds each, but years of abuse had turned them square. It was time for a change.

Visually, 16's are the right size for an SE-R, but the selection of 16-inch tires is pathetic. 17's look like dubs on a B13, so we went down to the land of lightweight and abundant race rubber. The land of 15's.

Every good tire is available in 205/50/15, and 15X6.5 and 15X7-inch wheels are abundant in the bolt pattern (4X100mm) and offset (+35mm) the SE-R requires. (Author Dave Coleman)


Check this thread for wheel weights:wheel weights - 3000+ brands - SR20 Forum It links you to a web-site that lists wheel weights for 3,000+ rims.

Conversion Tables for Rims and Tires You want to +1 your rim size and keep your speedometer as accurate as possible? Thank you Canx2k for this excellent thread:
Conversion table for bigger rims/tires - SR20 Forum

Where should I buy tires? Well, you should always check Tire Rack. They offer great service, support, pricing, and an uber-cool web-site: Tires Their web-site allows you to view different rims on your vehicle. Their tire buying process has tons of information and reviews on tires.

How old are my tires, even when new? Yes, tires have a have a shelf-life.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/offtopic/12314-you-buying-new-tires.html
Thanks to forum member 97 SR20 for that information. And for sr20jet for the Reader's Digest version:
Originally Posted by sr20jet
Look at the series of DOT numbers on the tire. Look at the last set of numbers, this will indicate when the tires were produced. In my case, 2208 meaning tires were made on the 22nd week of 2008. If it's 3 digits, the last digit goes back to the 1990's, ex. 077 tires made on 7th week of 1997.

Further, according to an ABC News report in the thread link, tires can start to deteriorate at the four (4) year mark, and become dangerous at the six (6) year mark. However, tires have no "expiration date" at the tire dealers. Make sure you are buying relatively new tires and not a tire that has been sitting on a shelf somewhere for five (5) years.

Stock OEM wheel information for the B13 and B14. What is the size, offset, bolt pattern, center bore, weight, and how does changing my rims change my speedometer accuracy?
Tire Wheel Sizes
Gracias to forum member jrmnet for this kick-ass link.

Lightweight 15-inch wheels for our vehicles. Bolt-on and go. Friendly offsets, 6.5" to 7" widths, 4X100 bolt pattern, lots of pictures and pertinent links.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/brakes-suspension/76490-lightweight-15-inch-wheels-15-inch-4x100-offset-fits-our-cars.html

How much tire and wheel can I stuff under my B13, B14, B15?

The Official Wide Tire (205+) Thread:
The official wide tire (205+) thread - SR20 Forum
The biggest tire you can run on a FWD vehicle thread:
Whats the biggest tire you run on your FWD car? - SR20 Forum
Toolapcfan wants a 15X8 wheel thread:
15x8 on a B13, what offset? Spacers? - SR20 Forum
Zerogravity wants to stuff a 15X8 wheel under his car also:
Test FIt:15x8 with +20 & +40 offset - SR20 Forum
Coach wants to stuff Slipstreams under his ride. Also, good information and discussion on offset.
Anyone look at the 7.5" WIDE Slipstream - SR20 Forum
JKho provided this link, to compare your current wheels to the wheels you are contemplating to see what will fit:
http://www.bigcustomwheels.com/info_specs.jsp
Here's Montys ride:
Originally Posted by McCoy
Here is what the 225/45/15 Hoosiers look like on my sentra with the 30mm offset and 8mm spacers used to clear the struts in the rear. No fender massaging has been done yet to my car, I just run the car high enough to keep the fenders off the tires.



Which tires are SR20-Forum Members running on their street or track cars, and what is their opinion on the tires?
From Cliff, this thread covers all the Forum Member reviews of tires in great detail. "The Definitive Tire Thread."

http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/29119-definitive-tire-thread.html

Upgrading your wheel studs and lug nuts.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/44478-extended-lugs.html

Why in the hell are B14 OEM SE-R rims so damn popular on B13's?
a) The "deli slicer" B13 14" OEM rims always looked a little....aesthetically questionable at best.
b) The 15" B14 rims are a handsome classic 5-spoke design that will never be dated. They look fantastic on Classics, and damned good on N2K's.
c) Excellent and inexpensive tire selection, more rubber on the road. 195/50/R15 or 205/50/15 tires are abundant.
d) Fancy wheels attract thieves, B14 rims do not.
Last edited by Shawn B on 2015-01-10 at 15-09-14. Reason: Adding wheel size measuring image.
2008-01-08 04:41:05
#13
IX. Limited Slip Differentials

(Applications: B13, B14, B15)

Why include LSD's in a suspension thread? Well, if you can't get your power to the ground, your suspension is irrelevant.

What the hell is a differential?
Originally Posted by Autotrader
Limited-Slip Differential
A device that helps prevent the drive wheels from skidding or losing traction by diverting power from the slipping wheel to the opposite wheel on the same axle


Originally Posted by How
An LSD applies torque to the wheel spinning the slowest. If one wheel loses traction, power is transferred to the other wheel. (HP Books, author Sarah Forst)


More in depth explanation on differentials: HowStuffWorks "How Differentials Work"

Types of LSD's

Viscous LSD - Here, let SCC explain it.
Originally Posted by Sport
Viscous - A type of limited-slip differential. A viscous limited slip connects the driveshafts of the driven wheels with alternating plates immersed in a thick, snot-like, fluid. When all the plates are turning the same speed, the snot is just there for the ride. When one tire slips, there's a speed difference between the plates. This speed difference causes the snot to grab the slower-spinning plates to accelerate them to the same speed as the faster-spinning ones, thus transferring torque to the wheel with grip. (Author Jason Kavanagh)



This is the most complete description of limited slip differentials I have ever found. Authors note: go buy the book quoted, it is brilliant, comprehensive, and full of information.
Originally Posted by How


Viscous LSD - A viscous LSD uses a series of stacked slotted discs attatched to the ends of each axle shaft with silicon fluid between them. When one wheel loses grip, the discs coupled to that wheel will rotate quicker than the others. This causes friction between the two discs and heats up the silicone fluid. The silicone expands and pushes the discs together, locking them and transferring more power to the wheel with grip. Most stock Nissan limited-slip differentials are the viscous type. Viscous limited-slip differentials are smooth but not as great at transferring power.

Mechanical LSD - A mechanical limited-slip differential transmits torque to the slower spinning wheel by using a spring-loaded or cam-actuated multi-plate clutch between the axles. The cams mount in the differential over the pinion shafts and apply a wedging force to the clutch plates when the axles spin at different speeds. Mechanical LSD's can be the most efficient but they can also be noisy and rough in operation. Most aftermarket LSD's, including the ones offered by Phantom Grip, are the mechanical clutch-type. The cam-actuated clutch-type differentials can be classified as 1-way, 1.5-way, and 2-way, as determined by the cam profile. The 1-way differentials work during acceleration. The 1.5-way differntials work slightly when the car is braking as well. A 1-way or 1.5-way works best on FWD cars or cars not intended for hard-core road racing. The 2-way differentials work during acceleration and braking. Two-way differentials work best for drag racing, hardcore road racing on high-powered cars, and for drifting.

Helical Gear LSD - The final type of differential is the helical gear, which uses longer angled teeth that can mesh tow unparallel shafts. Helical differentials eploit the fact that a spur gear can turn a worm gear, but not vice versa, to provide the locking action. They are very smooth in operation, have good locking capacity, and distribute torque to the wheels the best way to improve your car's ability to turn. The QR25DE-powered Spec V comes with a stock helical limited-slip differential. Quaife no longer produces their helical limited-slip differential for the SR20DE-powered B13 or B14 with stock viscous limited slip, but they can be found used. The Quaife unit can be installed on the open differential-equipped cars too, but it must be paired with the viscous coupling to make it work. The viscous units use bigger side case bearings with a different transmission case.

The SR20DE-powered B13 and 1995-1997 B14, B15 Sentra SE, and G20 "T" model come with a stock viscous limited-slip differential. The stock VLSD will eventually wear out. Autocross courses and many track days will break down the viscous fluid. The 1991-1996 Infiniti G20 (P10) standard trim models (non-T) came with an open differential. Phantom Grip offers clutch-type limited-slip differentials for the P10, as well as the B13 and B14, both the SR20DE- and GA16DE-equipped models. The Nissan Motorsports VLSD has 20% more lockup than the stock differential. Nismo also offers two clutch-driven 1.5-way mechanical limited-slip differentials for the SR20DE equipped cars, one for use with cars already equipped with the stock viscous limited-slip differential, and one for use with cars with an open differential.
(HP Books, author Sarah Forst)

Let me repeat, you should go buy "How To Build Performance Nissan Sport Compacts, 1991-2006" author Sarah Forst, published by HP books.

JGY - Nissan, 240sx, nissan sentra, nissan sentra se-r, G20, nissan skyline gtr, nissan silvia, S13

Originally Posted by JGY
JGY Customs Friction type LSD for trannsmissions with VLSD or open diff. Available in Street or Drag versions. - $219 Now availble for 1.6L transmissions - Instock!

NOTE: JGY is on the Vendor Blacklist on all SR20 Community Web-sites. He has about a 50% Customer Satisfaction Rating. Let me put that another way, you have a 50% chance of being pissed-off, ripped off, or disgusted with JGY. BUYER BEWARE.

Nismo - This is a clutch type 1.5 way limited slip differential (LSD). Forum member viprdude provided this link for "old skool" Nismo parts, including the LSD:
Nismoparts.com - Your #1 Source for OEM Parts and Accessories

From this thread: Quaife Differential - SR20 Forum
Originally Posted by McCoy
I paid under $700 for my Nismo LSD... for a vlsd tranny. The Nismo LSD for the non-vlsd tranny is $1000.

After doing it, I feel that this is one of my better investments for track usage


From this thread: Nismo LSD Review/Comments - SR20 Forum
Originally Posted by McCoy
1. - I did not buy the bearings, but I also had a local tranny shop swap the LSD and they were able to reuse my bearings from the LSD. If you were to do this yourself, you would probably want to order up the bearings.

Parts list of what I ordered...
02N/38431-D2100 STOPPER SPEEDOM
02N/32701-70E00 GEAR-DRIVE,SPEE
02N/38420-RS365US DIFFERENTIAL AS

The bearings that you might need...
02N/31408-31X08 BEARING-DIFFERE
02N/38440-D2100 BEARING-SHAFT L

2. - No, I talked to a few forum members about this and they also did not have to do this.

3. - A hell of alot better than the stock one. On the track I was able to spin the inside tire in tight 2nd-gear corners (T25+S3 cams) with the stock LSD. With the Nismo LSD I am able to accelerate out of these corners without spin and am able to get on the power much sooner giving me a better exit speed than I ever had before
.

From this thread: NISMO LSD review by Mike Kojima! - SR20 Forum
Originally Posted by Mike
Ok, I finaly got to test the Nismo clutch type 1.5 way LSD at the SE-R cup race at California Speedway this weekend. The diff was installed in the dog car and I ran it with some sucess in the weekends race.

At first the diff felt a little weird, contributing to a lot of pull and torque steer, fortunately this lasted only about a session and as the diff broke in, the pulling became unoticeable after 15 minutes of race conditions.

The Nismo diff uses clutch plates activated by a cam device that goes on the spider gear pins, when the wheels try to spin at different rates the spider gears transmit the differental force to the cames which apply a clamp load to the cluch packs. The Nismo diff also has 4 spider gears vs 2 like the stock diff for additonal strength as this is the weakest part of the stock diff.

Nismo sells two diffs, one to fit on trannys with a VLSD and another one to convert non LSD trannys like 98-99 trannys and G20's to limited slip.

The diff completly eliminated inside wheel spin on this track which had very tight and slippery corners. Unlike the Quaife differential, the Nismo unit still provided plenty of drive when one wheel was in the air, like when I was banging off FIA curbs.

The Nismo diff also helped to prevent the inside front wheel from locking up under heavy braking, even from 130 mph. This enabled me to brake late more
consistantly.

The diff did not hurt turn in like I feared it would but did not have that neat pull into a turn feeling that a Quaife has.

I think I like this diff more than a Quaife, it provides drive force when one wheel is in the air, helps under braking and is much stronger. The only thing a Quaife does better is turn-in under throttle.

This diff is cheaper than the Quaife was and best yet, its avalible for sale!


Another very good thread on the Nismo unit, gives you a ballpark on total cost installed:
NISMO lsd *total* cost, advice - SR20 Forum

Nissan OEM - VLSD

Phantom Grip - Phantom Grip - Get a Grip! Limited Slip Conversion Kits

Originally Posted by Phantom
The Phantom Grip LSD, otherwise knows as Limited Slip Differential, conversion kit, installs into your non-lsd differential converting it into a proven and competitive limited slip differential that enhances your traction needs. It serves two distinctive functions for the daily driver, street/strip warrior, or full race vehicle. In cornering and braking, it functions as a disc-type limited slip. In hard acceleration, the Phantom Grip works as a locker causing both wheels to receive equal power instead of just one wheel spin.

Every Phantom Grip is constructed of only the highest-quality aerospace alloys. With over 500,000 miles of vigorous performance testing (SCCA, drag, rally, hill climb, ice, rain, etc.), we have been able to fine tune each application through specific heat treating and rockwell testing to achieve maximum performance and reliability. Each Phantom Grip unit is assembled with blueprinted matched sets of progressive-rate springs to achieve equal load distribution to the disc plates, which dramatically enhances reliability and performance.


From this thread: Phantom Grip LSD - SR20 Forum
Originally Posted by Mike
Follow the link to the instrumented tests done by NPM. Data talks, opinions walk.

The Phantom grip works very well as an assist to a worn out stock VLSD. On its own on an open diff car like a G20 or a 98 SE or SE-R, it works like a VLSD when its shimmed with the compitition spring kit. Without the springs, its like a worn out stock VLSD, which is still way better than nothing.

When combined with a stock VLSD, its a nice alternative to a more expensive unit. I used to run the Phantomgrip on my SE-R cup car but have since switched to a Nismo clutch type 1.5 way diff. INHO this works better than a quaife as it still provides traction when one wheel is in the air and helps prevent inside wheel brake lock up.

Quaife still turns in a little better.

This is real information from people who have really used them.


Nissan Performance Magazine:
nissanperformancemag.com

Nissan Performance Magazine again:
nissanperformancemag.com

Excellent thread: Phantom grip vs jgy lsd - SR20 Forum

Quaife - AUTOTECH - Quaife Torque Biasing Differentials, Close Ratio Gearkits, Racing Transmissions, Custom Driveline Components

Originally Posted by Quaife
The Quaife Differential powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one. With an ordinary open differential, standard on most cars, a lot of precious power is wasted during wheelspin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip (along the path of least resistance). The Quaife, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel.

In drag-race style, straight-line acceleration runs, this results in a close to ideal 50/50 power split to both drive wheels, resulting in essentially twice the grip of an ordinary differential (they don't call open diffs "peglegs" for nothing).

In cornering, while accelerating out of a turn, the Quaife biases power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed.

The Quaife also controls loss of traction when the front wheels are on slippery surfaces such as ice and snow or mud, providing the appropriate biased traction needed to overcome these adverse conditions. The Quaife Differential provides constant and infinitely variable drive. Power is transferred automatically without the use of normal friction pads or plates seen in other limited-slip designs.

The Quaife's unique design offers maximum traction, improves handling and steering, and puts the power where it is needed most. A definite advantage whether on the track or on the street.

The Quaife is extremely strong and durable and since the Quaife is gear operated, it has no plates or clutches that can wear out and need costly replacement.

The Quaife is great for street driving or racing. Racers don't have to put up with locking mechanisms or spools that created unwanted understeer under power, or in the case of front-drive cars, even tear the steering wheel out of their hands when cornering. Because it behaves like an open differential during ordinary driving, street drivers will have trouble telling it's there until pushing the car's limits.

The Quaife has been proven in everything from SCCA Rally to Formula 1. It provides autocrossers with such an advantage, it has become "required" equipment for a winning effort.

More and more auto manufacturers are specifying the Quaife ATB Differential as original equipment in their high performance models - for good reason - it works!

The Quaife ATB Differential comes with something else other's don't have: a Limited Lifetime Warranty. This warranty applies even when raced !


98sr20ve tells you how to install a Quaife: Pics from Quaife install - SR20 Forum

From this thread: Overwhelming disappointment with Nismo LSD, or, Learn from my ignorance (long) - SR20 Forum
Originally Posted by autoxer7
I was going to say something about you needing a new bearing and speedo gear but someone had already mentioned it... alas, in another thread. Nismo LSD installation. - SR20 Forum

I know when I did my Quaife install a new bearing and speed gear were recommended for the install. Here's an old thread that mentions the parts: pics of prepped Quaife - SR20 Forum

I really love my Quaife. Ask all those guys behind me on the track at the '02 Nat Convention in AZ... I could pull a couple car lenghts in those tight corners on the "oval." I hope you reconsider installing the Nismo unit.

From this thread: Best differential for Loose surface (Rally) - SR20 Forum
Not one but two uber-brainiacs chime in on differentials.
Originally Posted by BigToe
The ATB is Automatic Torque Biasing. It's a Gleason Torsen Differential, used by almost all of the high dollar sports cars out of Japan and Europe.
The torque at the wheels contact patch changes as a function of the load and traction on the contact patch, if the wheel is slipping all it has is a torque value equal to the total friction of the slipping assembly. If the other wheel has traction it has a torque value equal to the total friction at that wheel. In other words, one wheel slipping (say off the ground) the other not then you have 100% of the output torque consumed at the wheel or; x=0, y=100. The gear arrangement allows the torque distribution from the pinion shaft through to the axle halves to infinitely vary while allowing differential axle velocity in a theoretical ratio of 0:100 and vice versa.
A plate type LSD cannot do this.
Once the plate type assembly sees rotational velocity (round a corner or one wheel slipping) the torque differential across the axles result in a twisting force across the diff case via the spider gear assembly which is mechanically converted in to a compression load of the clutch pack, forcing the axle with the lower torque value (higher velocity) to slow down to the speed of the higher torque (lower velocity) axle. Hence the Plate type clutch is a differential velocity devise and not a torque biasing device. It's like an of off switch.
The VLSD sorts the problem of a clutch type assembly because it locks up based on shear stress of a viscous fluid as the shear rate increases (velocity or speed differential). It is therefore alot more progressive, allows for a bit of a dimmer switch effect than an on off effect, is cheaper and does not creek and grunt like a clutch type. Perfect for a mass produced OEM unit. Problem is as temperature increases the shear stress to shear rate ratio changes. The shear stress being the mechanism that transfers the torque to the plates and onto the axles. As temperature increases, the shear stress reduces as the shear rate increases. This is a rheological fluid dynamic that can be described by basic models: Newtonian Fluids, Bingham Plastics, Power Law or pseudo plastic fluids. I would guess without testing the silicone fluid that the best fitting model would be the Power Law.

Mike has this to say:
Originally Posted by choaderboy2
I think the Nismo 1.5 way is the best and cheapest off the shelf solotion. The Quaife does not work too well. It allows inside wheelspin and acts like an open diff when a wheel is in the air...


Group Buy thread: Quaife LSD / ATB Differential - Group Buy - SR20 Forum

From the Tech Libarary: Disassembly of B15/P11 tranny/install of friction type LSD - SR20 Forum
2008-01-08 04:41:49
#14
X. Glossary of Suspension Terms

(Applications: Any car you own.)

You don't know what the hell "understeer" really means? Check out the following web-sites:

The best one, from B13magoo later in this thread, Car & Driver:
http://www.caranddriver.com/glossary/4534/caranddrivercom-glossary-of-terms.html#a

Turnfast:
http://www.turnfast.com/refc_glossary/glossary.shtml

Autotrader:
http://www.autotrader.com/help/glossary.jsp

Oddballautoparts:
http://www.oddballautoparts.com/Automtive_Definitions_And_Definitions_For_Automotive_Parts_A_F.htm
2008-01-08 04:43:17
#15
XI. Recommended Set-ups

I am going to actually apply what is written up in this thread and give you some basic suspension outlines that will work. There are too many variables to consider with each individual person and their start-point. Existing suspension, mechanical expertise, budget, etc..... Therefore, tailor these general recommendations to your specific uses and performance expectations. These are in approximate order from least expensive to most expensive.

I am not an expert by any means. However, I had Steve (98sr20ve) and veilside180sx look these over to make sure these "Recommended Set-Ups" are solid advice. Their comments:
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
looks good to me

Originally Posted by veilside180sx
I think you summed it up nicely and don't really see anything to change.

Thank you gentlemen for your stamps of approval.

Before I start buying my new suspension parts, what about all the dead OEM stuff?
This is a standard question, I see it all the time. Here is the conversation between camarok and two very smart guys.
Originally Posted by camarok
I'm having my Nissan Mechanic get all the part numbers for OEM stuff.

Basically I want to be able to take off my Old OEM suspension and put my new setup on ( RM and AGX ) w/o swapping ANY old parts. I should have descriptions and part numbers for anyone else who wants to do something like this.

I know there's alot of wierd spacers and the front setup has like a 2 pieces strut mount or something weird, so in the next day or so I'll post up things and we should be good to go!

BTW This will be for a B14 specific, don't know what swaps to a b13, I know for sure the rears will probably be different.

Originally Posted by Fosters
Here is the one for the B13: Link, so it will be helpful to the B14 guys for your list. Josh

Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
I never understood why people want to replace all the parts. Just get new bearings. Thats the only part that wears out. Have a shop pull the springs and put the new ones in if you are nervous about that part. They will do that for 20-30 bucks a pair easy. I throw the tophats away all the time when I get housing for Koni jobs and I can't remember the last time I saw a set of oem top hats I would not reuse with just some new bearings.

However, camerok is a very thorough gentleman and wanted to replace it all. Every last bit of his suspension hardware, struts, springs, boots, bumpstops, the whole shebang. If you want to do the same for your B14, here's the thread with pictures:

Exploded view suspension... in person - SR20 Forum

And camerok, being incredibly helpful in his detail minded posts also gives you all the B14 part numbers and pricing:

B13, B14, B15 Suspension Information..... - Page 9 - SR20 Forum

There ya' go. You're now good to start planning your suspension. You can take Steve's advice or do what camerok did and replace it all. Your call, both ways have logical arguments behind them.

BTW - If anyone does the same type of research and write-up for the B13 or B15 chassis, I would gladly add it to the thread. Thanks.

1. Road Magnet springs and AGX struts. - This is an economical and significant upgrade over the OEM suspension. You've lost an inch of travel, but the spring rate will allow you to get away with it. Would work very well as a daily-driver and/or basic autocross suspension. Will be be a bit harsh as a daily driver if you are an old fart, if you are a youngster you'll be fine.

Add ons: Koni bumpstops or equal, Progress RSB, FSTB, RSTB, Superpro Caster bushings, Cusco/Stillen camber plates, ES bushings, IKEA brace, upgraded wheels and tires, new dust boots, etc.

2. Road Magnet springs and CSK struts. - Another economical way to upgrade. Stock amount of travel with the CSK's. Excellent for a daily driver and/or basic autocross suspension. Surely smooth enough for a daily driver even if you are an old fart.

Add ons: Koni bumpstops or equal, Progress RSB, FSTB, RSTB, Superpro Caster bushings, Cusco/Stillen camber plates, ES bushings, IKEA brace, upgraded wheels and tires, new dust boots, etc.

3. Hyperco springs and AGX struts. - This is an economical and significant upgrade over the OEM suspension. You've lost an inch of travel, but the spring rate will allow you to get away with it. Would work well as a daily-driver and/or basic autocross suspension. Should be livable as a daily driver even if you are an old fart (ed. note: I am an old fart, bad neck, bad back, etc...and I found this suspension entirely acceptable, if a bit harsh, daily-driving on war-torn Houston roads.)

Add ons: Koni bumpstops or equal, Progress RSB, FSTB, RSTB, Superpro Caster bushings, Cusco/Stillen camber plates, ES bushings, IKEA brace, upgraded wheels and tires, new dust boots, etc.

4. Hyperco springs and CSK struts. - An excellent way to upgrade. Stock amount of travel with the CSK's. Excellent and incredibly comfortable for a daily driver and/or excellent autocross/HPDE suspension. I have this combo on my Classic currently. It is waaaaay smoother and more comfortable than Hyperco/AGX. It might very well be more comfortable than the stock suspension. It is truly amazing ride quality. All the performance, zero downside.

Add ons: Koni bumpstops or equal, Progress RSB, FSTB, RSTB, Superpro Caster bushings, Cusco/Stillen camber plates, ES bushings, IKEA brace, upgraded wheels and tires, new dust boots, etc.

5. GC coilovers and AGX struts. - An economical way to upgrade. Do not lower the car more than 1.5 inches. Good for a daily driver and/or good autocross suspension. Be careful on what spring rates you choose for the GC coilovers.

Add ons: Koni bumpstops or equal, Progress RSB, FSTB, RSTB, Superpro Caster bushings, GC camber plates, ES bushings, IKEA brace, upgraded wheels and tires, new dust boots, etc.

6. GC coilovers and CSK struts. - A kick-ass way to upgrade. Excellent for a daily driver and/or excellent autocross/HPDE suspension. Be careful on what spring rates you choose for the GC coilovers.
Originally Posted by 98sr20ve
Oh, BTW, I am convinced with out a doubt that the absolute best daily driver+HPDE/autocross setup is the Koni paired with GC sleeves and a real front pearch the kills 99% of any rattles (all coilovers can make some noise). Pair that with a 300-325# 10 inch front spring, GC Camber Plate. Set the rideheight to and 1.5 or so below stock That leaves you with stock levels of suspension travel. I would stack it up against anything anyone else makes in the 1200 price range.

Add ons: Koni bumpstops or equal, Progress RSB, Ground Control camber plates, FSTB, RSTB, Superpro Caster bushings, ES bushings, IKEA brace, upgraded wheels and tires, new dust boots, etc.

After those six (6) recommendations? You know more than me, you are after a very, very serious suspension, and you are on your own.


XII. Discouraged Suspension Set-up

Slamming your car as low as possible, while re-engineering it correctly.

You insist you want to lower your car more than 1.5-inches. Yes, it can be done. You have to re-engineer parts of your suspension to make it work correctly. Move suspension pick-up points and/or modify your lower control arms. It will require welding, it will require fabrication. And you better be damn sure of what you are doing.

Keep in mind that failure of a custom-modified suspension that was not done correctly can be dangerous to your health and safety. Do not make this type of thing your first welding project. Either be damn sure you know what you are doing, or take it to a professional. Whatever you do be safe.

You are modifying your suspension at your own risk.


These threads should help point you in the correct direction. Both of these gentlemen took slightly different paths to achieve their goals.

In this following thread, I posted some links to threads by Mike Kojima on what he did to re-engineer his suspension to get his center of gravity lower for racing. Mike is an engineer who specializes in racing suspensions and consults with racing teams. Mike currently hangs his hat at MotoIQ.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/45967-calling-b13s-low.html

Russel is a long-time forum member and very, very handy with a wrench or welder in his hands. He modified his control arms to assist him in going lower. He outlines what he did and how he did it here.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/52765-those-want-go-low-how-i-extended-my-front-control-arms.html
Last edited by Shawn B on 2012-10-08 at 00-44-11.
2008-01-08 04:44:18
#16
Saved for expansion.
2008-01-08 04:45:12
#17
Saved for expansion.
2008-01-08 04:45:32
#18
Saved for expansion.
2008-01-08 04:53:12
#19
Saved for expansion.
2008-01-08 04:54:04
#20
Saved for expansion.

Thank you bobtiji for originally moving this thread from one location to another, your efforts are appreciated. I am glad it is thought of as a valuable resource, as is its intention.

Thank you Moderators for "Sticky'ing" this thread in this particular location, and doing a bit of clean-up work.

Thank you to whomever did not post while I was moving this thread. The 20,000 character post limit was nowhere near big enough for the original length of these collective/individual posts. The first "warning" I got to limit my characters said "you have 66,000 characters, please limit your post to 20,000 characters." Holy crap! .......

Gracias gentlemen, and now onward. Cutting through the fog of suspension ignorance.
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