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Thread: What amp to get for bass tube?

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Posts: 11-20 of 31
2012-12-26 20:55:32
#11
Originally Posted by b13
I have a 5 channel amp now and it cuts off at high volume...not a hifonics though, a bullshit one


if you buy something that is cea 2006 compliant that should not be a issue. not that you might not get a bad unit out of the box.
2012-12-27 13:23:19
#12
I ended up getting a "dual" 300W with crossover. No flaming if it is crappy, as I have no clue and was on a pretty tight budget. It is bridgeable, but I am unsure how to run the bridged wires to the four poles on the DVC tube...so I didn't take the chance. I am amazed at the amount of sound this little bass tube puts out as it is. What is the advantage of bridging? Would I just run the bridged speaker wires to one set of the poles?
Last edited by ian on 2012-12-27 at 13-24-23.
2012-12-27 19:57:39
#13
Originally Posted by ian
I ended up getting a "dual" 300W with crossover. No flaming if it is crappy, as I have no clue and was on a pretty tight budget. It is bridgeable, but I am unsure how to run the bridged wires to the four poles on the DVC tube...so I didn't take the chance. I am amazed at the amount of sound this little bass tube puts out as it is. What is the advantage of bridging? Would I just run the bridged speaker wires to one set of the poles?


the way you have it wired now each voice coil has its own channel. There can be a slight time delay from one channel to another causing damage to the coils. the coils need to be run in series or parallel depending on the impedance of the coils and what the minimum bridged impedance is of the amp. here is a link on how to wire voice coils in series or parallel. Also you will want to look up the specs on the amp. most dual amps will only do a 4 ohm mono load.


Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams
2012-12-27 20:33:33
#14
Originally Posted by cortrim1
Originally Posted by ian
I ended up getting a "dual" 300W with crossover. No flaming if it is crappy, as I have no clue and was on a pretty tight budget. It is bridgeable, but I am unsure how to run the bridged wires to the four poles on the DVC tube...so I didn't take the chance. I am amazed at the amount of sound this little bass tube puts out as it is. What is the advantage of bridging? Would I just run the bridged speaker wires to one set of the poles?


the way you have it wired now each voice coil has its own channel. There can be a slight time delay from one channel to another causing damage to the coils. the coils need to be run in series or parallel depending on the impedance of the coils and what the minimum bridged impedance is of the amp. here is a link on how to wire voice coils in series or parallel. Also you will want to look up the specs on the amp. most dual amps will only do a 4 ohm mono load.


Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams


Will probably just have to wire into a 8ohm load (use the bottom pic from what cortrim sent)
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, One 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speaker
2012-12-28 13:15:57
#15
Ok...the dvc is 4ohm/8ohm. The impedance is 2-8 ohms stereo and 4-8 ohms bridged. 150w rms x1 channel at 4 ohms bridged. What now?
Last edited by ian on 2012-12-28 at 13-16-36.
2012-12-28 13:32:17
#16
Going to assume you mean the amp is 4ohm/8ohm.

Connect the 2 bridged connectors from the amp to the box. 1 positive wire from the amp to the positive on the box, 1 negative wire from the amp to the negative on the box.

On the box, connect the other 2 unused connectors together. Run a wire from the positive to the negative.

8ohm load

Post pics of the amp speaker connectors and the connectors on the box and someone will draw it for you.
2012-12-28 13:51:45
#17
[url='http://www.sr20-forum.com/dbtgallery.php?do=view_image&id=213&gal=gallery'][img]http://www.sr20-forum.com/dbtgallery.php?do=gallery_image&id=213&gal=gallery&type=thumb[/img][/url]

[url='http://www.sr20-forum.com/dbtgallery.php?do=view_image&id=212&gal=gallery'][img]http://www.sr20-forum.com/dbtgallery.php?do=gallery_image&id=212&gal=gallery&type=thumb[/img][/url]
2012-12-28 13:55:31
#18
also...the speaker IS RATED AT 4/8 OHM. amp is, according the manual...2-8ohms (stereo) and 4-8 ohms (bridged)
Power output: 50watts rms x2 channels at 4 ohms

additional power output :75watts rmsx2 channels at 2 ohms
120 watts rmsx1 channel at 4 ohms (bridged)

crossover range 50-500hx
2012-12-28 14:36:25
#19
Woah, making that at 8ohms is not going to give it much power. I'd buy another or return that.

But, with that amp.

Far left amp terminal (-) to far right terminal on box (-)
Far right amp terminal (+) to far left terminal on box (+)

On the box, connect middle 2 terminals together. Put a small wire in to connect them together.

The middle 2 speaker connections on the amp will not be used.
Last edited by mirrortints on 2012-12-28 at 14-37-15.
2012-12-28 14:48:01
#20
Originally Posted by Sentraga
Two channel at a max rating of 400watts, as thats all the tube can handle

I am not specifically car-audio savvy, but I used to design and sell nightclub sound, lighting and video systems for a nationally recognized and respected installation company. Box sales, equipment, expendables, assistance, full-design, or turn-key installations. Big, expensive ones. Like Dave & Busters, Champps Americana, and a bazillion bars and discotheques.

We used to pretty much always over-power our speakers. For instance, if the speaker is an 8 ohm cabinet looking for 600 watts RMS, then I liked to use an amp channel that had 700+ output. Build in some head-room. The speaker would distort, but probably not blow, from too much input. Then turn it down to the appropriate clean level, set the limiter (eq, crossover, delays, blah, blah, blah) and done. But if you clip the amp and send that clipped signal to the speaker (particularly the high-frequency diaphragms) then you can blow a speaker driver instantly.

Even on long runs of 70volt background speaker systems, if I could with the budget allowed, I'd always spec an amp with headroom.

Basically, more power than you need and run the amps at 75-80% all night long, night after night.

If that Bass Tube in this example wants to see 400 watts continuous RMS, then wouldn't getting a bigger amp with headroom (at whatever ohm rating and hookup procedure specified) make sense?
Last edited by Shawn B on 2012-12-28 at 14-50-01.
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