Thread: trunk battery

thats pretty much what i plan on doing, but circuit breaker for battery and another for altenator. my distribution block is octogon shape, with 2 0/4 ga slots, and 3-4 smaller gauge slots with no fuses. but it will work. thanks for the pic

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=1338651e63787d56#!/?cid=1338651E63787D56&id=1338651E63787D56%21374&sc=documents

I did pretty much the same thing, just where the back seats used to be. I did use a heavier duty box for added security and also because I resent the fact that the Yellow Top clashes with my interior, lol.

I am also running an 8AWG ground wire through the carpet with contacts near the ECU and through the firewall to the motor and tranny. From all my training (I work on diesel/gas power plants from .5kw-920kw) you dont need a huge gauge ground system under the hood. 8AWG as an auxiliary is plenty for whats under the hood.

I believe the alternator wiring does go to the battery, then from there it goes to the fuse/relay box.. Its been a while since I've done mine, but when I took my harness apart, the alt wiring went straight to that red plastic thing on the batt.... I'll look again.

I just ran the factory starter cable (removed from harness) through the firewall where the ECU wiring goes through. Then bolted that (through the cable eyelet) to the wiring that was at the battery originally (removed from harness), along with the cable I ran to the battery. I dont have a distribution block, nor a breaker. I do suggest getting some though. And i do get corrosion build up at my cable "junction" every now and then.

Battery cable fits nicely through that plastic thing under the pass side door frame. from there, under the back seat, to the battery. I just tac welded my factory tray down in the trunk. Ghetto, but works, and is light weight.

when i started searching on how to do it, i did see a few pics and people relating thats how to do it. which is why my drawing looked like it did. but i was advised by members here not to do that, that the factory way was fine. what made it worse for me is that the harness was hacked up before me. so far, the harness from my altenator (starter also, after swap complete) meets junction here, from the battery.



trunk part went great, and turned out better than i had anticipated with this tie down... battery not going anywhere, unless the whole trunk floor goes with it



looking forward to anymore input. thanks

Yes, it runs there, but it runs there because that's the main distribution point in the engine bay. You want to create a new main distribution point, typically with a distribution block in the area that the battery used to be, and run the line from the relocated battery to that, leaving the alternator connections in the engine compartment.

so in addition, i need a seperate line from battery directly to altenator harness??? im a hands on type of person, so pics and drawings work well for me so i can actually see it. would it b easier for me if i completly open up harness bundle that runs to/from altenator?

i dunno maybe this will help a lil; some way, somehow, whatever was connected to the battery before, eccentially has to be connected back to the battery. imagine removing the battery, placing it on the ground, then attatching jumper cables from it to the car. I've had mine liek this for 2 years, no dist block, no exposed wiring. I just like the cleanliness of just bare essentials.. didn't need it, why get it? BUT dist blocks ARE safer and you should get one, but you dont have to put it where the batt was... I dunno i did a lot to my car. I'll shut up now. I don't want it to sound like I'm arguing or trying to confuse anyone. I'll post pix.....



this is right after i done my batt relocate, before I did anything with my wiring other than removing the cables. you can see them all bunched up behind the intake





this is after a dumb paint job (dont ask), but all that wiring that was originally hooked at the pos term on batt (fogs, 2 car main power wires, starter cable) were rerouted just screwed together. as long as they dont touch ground, you should be ok.





and the relay box that was attached to the tray... well, although the photo is blurry, you can mount it like this, (down the side of the rad, you can see the top of it) I dunno how well it is with stock fans though.



and one more just cuz



still needs work. anyway, hope i've at least helped a lil. let us know how it goes for you and post pix!

found some more pix for ya taken from:::::


http://www.sr20-forum.com/all-motor/40095-lets-see-your-de-engine-bay-7.html

Looks nicer.

But when you guys drill into the floor of the trunk what are you sealing it with.

I plan on putting mine back in the trunk over the winter with a fiberglass carpeted box.

But does it have to be a dry cell?

it has to be a sealed battery or u have to use a sealed box with a vent. i had an optima as i did the stock tray just mounted in the back. now i have a braille installed.