OKAY: Here's how it's going to be. The kit will include the main board, a nice pushbutton, and a few LEDs with resistors and wire already soldered in place. I have a few different styles of LEDs, and you can have any color you want, so long as that's white or red. I've already put up videos of the white, I'll put one of the red soon (tomorrow?).
The main board has eight wire connections on it. They are:
+12 volts
ground
LED strobe out
LED strobe out, switched
LED non-strobe out
Button input
RPM input
+5 volts common for LED and switch
The +12 and ground connections are pretty self-explanatory. This power can be pulled from anywhere, though a switched supply would be best so this won't drain your battery.
There are three LED outputs. Three LEDs can be connected to this board at once. The ground side of the LED goes to one of the three outputs, and the positive sides go to the +5 volt common. Two of the outputs strobe when the RPM threshold is reached, and the third just goes on solid when the threshold is reached. One of the strobing outputs can be turned off using the pushbutton. Any one or combination of these outputs can be used, but only one LED per output.
One end of the button connects to the button input, the other side goes to the +5 volts common. The button has two functions – a short press (longer than 1/16th of a second) sets the current RPM as the new shift threshold. A long press (2 seconds or longer) turns on or off the switched LED strobe output.
The RPM input connects directly to one of the fuel injector wires. Each injector has a white wire and a colored wire. This input needs to be connected to one of the colored wires. Since each injector pulses once every 2 RPM, this is a really accurate method of measuring RPM. Now that this runs off of an injector, it should work on any car with fuel injection. However, I only have one car, a B13 SE-R, so this is the only car I can guarantee that this kit will work for.
The +5 volt connection is used as a common for the LEDs and the switch.
It is only necessary to dismantle the gauge cluster if you want to install LEDs in it. I will provide instructions for installing an LED below the cruise control light and in the tachometer needle, but the needle install is at your own risk. Beyond this, the installation is up to you. (Most everyone here is really creative anyways.)