Thread: Building a high quality system for my P10

This system is going in my daily driven '95 G20. I'm looking for sound quality first, and I already have most of the equipment I think I need. I'll list my current equipment and the plan, my multiple questions follow the descriptions.

Head Unit - Eclipse CD7000 I picked up from Cliff:
http://www.sr20-forum.com/electronics/40114-eclipse-cd7000-200-obro.html

Amplification - JL Audio 300/4 & 500/1 purchased new in the box locally for cheap. I have an Alumapro C.A.P. 15 farad capacitor from a previous install that I am going to use:


Speakers - I am trying to 'build' a Focal 3-way system. I have a K2P 4" component set for midrange/highs:




And I have this set for midbass:
165-KBE - Focal K2 Power 6.5" Bass Extension Kit



Subwoofer - Focal 27KX in a custom enclosure in the trunk
http://www.focal-america.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/27KX_Spec.pdf
27KX - Focal 11" 600 Watt K2 Power Subwoofer

My questions at this point include:
1) Are there any obvious flaws to my 3-way system thinking above? No, answered below

2) Am I better off using the crossovers in the head unit or the amps? Eclipse head unit FTW

3) Will the 300/4 have enough power to drive the midrange/tweets as "front channel" and the midbass as "rear channel"? Absolutely

4) With 2 amplifiers requiring 40 and 50 amp fuses respectively, would an upgrade to the alternator be advisable? If so, the stocker is rated at 80 amps, would this one rated at 150 amps be enough of an upgrade to keep my battery from being killed:
Infiniti G20 High Output Alternators
Discussion but no consensus opinions. I am going to upgrade to be safe

5) I am going with Dynamat in the front doors and the trunk. Do I need to do the rear doors and roof as well? Doors definitely yes, Roof undecided

Thanks for any help and please give sound reasoning for any advice you provide.

Joe

Joe your set up is going to be pretty nice


1,,, the only flaw that will be with what you have is the acoustic balance in the car itself, putting the tweeters in the right place will help! other than that you should be good to go. I'm not a fan of 4 inch speakers either but you will be fine.

2,,, that radio has all the pre-amp outputs you need for a good sound, use good Rca's for all hook ups

3,,, absolutely that amp is plenty of power for the mids and highs, that amp will deliver a nice clean 75watts per channel without a problem, the Focals will respond great to that

4,,, your well under 1000 watts Rms so upgrading the Alternator is not necessary! your power cap will maintain the juice just fine, however getting a gel battery for the front would be a great decision, I use the Redtop,, but Yellow might be better for you..


now to the sound deadening in the doors is a must if you want to cut road noise and inprove sound quality inside the cab of your car,, the more you do the better it will sound.

I recommend you do Dynamat and a Dynasorb door kit in both front doors,, some dynamat in rear door just to cut road noise..

looking forward to hearing this set up when finished, maybe I'll drop by on my through your area by that time

If you plan on bumping it for a good amount of time while the car is just idling the best thing to do is upgrade the alternator.
capacitors IMO are bandaids.

Looks like a really good setup! I almost bought that head unit from cliff!!

Bump for additional comments in post 1

for #4 read this:

Charging System Basics
Upgrading Your Charging System

as far as your 3 way system. How are you splitting the channels? (front/rears & lefts/rights) And have you done the math to make sure your final resistance/impedance on each channel is within the limits of the 300/4?

if you want another set. i still have the ZR570-CSi speakers that have been sitting in storage.

Good read. So if the stock alternator for a P10 was 80 amps and it was considered sufficient by Nissan, then whatever draw I am adding with the 2 amps should be accounted for to maintain a "stock" charging system level. Using the recommended fuses for each amp, a 300/4 should never draw more than 40 amps and the 500/1 never more than 50 amps. The chances of both amps on max draw at the same time is slim, and a short hit of that nature would be covered by the cap. It is however, very likely to me that upgrading to most of the amps draw is a good idea. The 150 amp alty gives me 70 extra "amp" amps which should cover 75% of what the amps might draw.

The Eclipse head unit allows me to use the "front" channels for the mid range & tweeters and the "rear" channels for mid bass. Both the 100kp mid/tweet set and the 165 mid bass are rated at 4 ohms.

OMG hell yes!

So nice to hear someone else thinks like me!!

To the OP, if the sound is not to your liking an active crossover could tame that tin can sound you MIGHT be in store for. Every car I've ever heard with a 3-way set up for the front stage has had to do an active crossover to balance it out, always sound amazing when done though.

K2's are a damn nice foundation to your set up too!

Car is in the shop, will post pics as we move along

Car is back home and sounds absolutely amazing. Doug at Innovative Sounds took over 100 pics of the build, I am sorting thru them now to give a start to finish overview.