You can get to it from the bottom. I'm assuming it's on one of your B14's? You have to take out the huge black bracket from the bottom and use a wrench to get it off. Takes me about an hour because i've done like 10 of them.
Originally Posted by daveracer You can get to it from the bottom. I'm assuming it's on one of your B14's? You have to take out the huge black bracket from the bottom and use a wrench to get it off. Takes me about an hour because i've done like 10 of them.
mine had more rust than the titanic, and rounded off
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[url]www.ohionissans.com[/url] 95 200sx se-r
ssac header - 2 1/4 side exit exhaust yoshi pipe - k&n drop in filter
65 wet shot (zex kit) 13.92@ 100mph
ok so i relocated the knock sensor gave it a ground to the intake manifold and its still running like poop and throwing knock sensor code. i checked the wire from ecu (pin 54) and ks connector and i get .001 ohms which tells me the wire is not shorted or open. am i relocating it wrong?...i cant wait to put it where it belongs which should be next week since i dont need my car all week.
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95 Red 200SX U13 SER sold
96 Black 200SX SER boostless daily sold
98 Black Mk3 VR6
did you attach the ground to the bottom of the sensor. if not thats you problem. the point is to make the sensor think its still on the block. I usually ground them back to the stock location and wrap the sensor to insulate it from noise.
I am running a JWT computer, and they take the knock sensor out of the programming. They told me it wouldn't make any difference whether it worked our not. I wonder if calum does the same thing?
But I have my knock sensor bolted to my intake manifold right now, just for experimenting. It doesn't seem to make any difference whether it is plugged in or not.