Thread: This Is A HeadLight Bulb Question.

I don't know what bulbs the Tsurus use. The link up the is for an H4, which is what the B14 crystal clear lights use.

The side marker bulbs are 194 on B13s (my B14 lights use the same bulb for the city light). I don't think you'll find any that are really bright, but you can get them in super white, amber, purple (hid yo! :rofl, red, green, or whatever color you want. You might want to look into the 194 LED bulbs.

Excellent source of bulbs and harness upgrades:
suvlights.com

Don't let the name mislead you, they don't suck. Plenty of Orsram, other good bulbs and the higher wattage can be managed with some wiring upgrades. I've run as much as 100W/80W in my U13 and B13 w/o any issues, but the wiring is not stock, the headlights have their own relays added in-line. Normally I'd run something closer to 75-80W/65W, but cannot emphasize enough as others have just dropping these high wattage bulbs in there is asking for wiring trouble. Not a big fan of the Silverstars for the price, they don't project as well as a slightly higher wattage bulb and are relatively expensive.

Another consideration is if you track your car the vibration and impacts seem to be a bit hard on bulbs. 2 of the last bulbs I have replaced came after a day at the track, I carry some cheap lowest cost possible bulbs and put them in now before I head out after losing some more expensive ones most likely due to the pounding that the front of the car takes at the track. At least carry some spares, same for the brake lights. If the bulbs are old, track use will finish them off sometimes - too often to be a coincidence IMHO.

What exactly did you do to perform your wire harness upgrade to the headlights? I'm considering doing this as I just ordered some VW MK3 headlights for my NX and am wanting the most efficient, brightest light I can safely achieve. Probably going HID for the low beam projector, but don't know what I want to do for the brights yet.

^This is what I want as well. I can't figure out why my high beam on the driver side does not work Both the fuses under the hood are good and the OEM wiring harness has never been cut.

P.S. I like the look of the 8K beam in that group buy going on over here.

That is what I need to figure out!! My passenger side high beam has never worked. What I did for now on the stock headlights was just tap into the highbeam power on the driver side and run a wire directly to the highbeam wire on the passenger side to get it working alright.

My thoughts on why this happens:

On my old NX1600, I had this really bad problem of the battery draining. I finally figured out the light switch has a short or something in it, and if I jiggled it just a tiny bit, the passenger side highbeam would come on as well as the highbeam indicator in the instrument panel (even with the switch off). Touching the switch again it would go off. Now my buddies Classic is doing the same thing. My thought on this is, inside of the headlight switch is a series of electrical points, depending on where your headlight switch is at (off, parking, low beam, high beam) these points shift and touch other electrical points. I think that this just wears out over time or they become lose and I have a feeling that the one for my passenger side highbeam as just completely come off.

I'd look into that MR4Dr, I am before I throw in my VW headlights. I'm going to try to get a new switch altogether to throw in there. After all of that is straightened out --> HID and some PIAAs

I had this problem with my p10 and it turned out to be the switch(stalk). Swapped it out for one I found at the junkyard and it fixed the problem.

921 or 912 bulbs will fit the city light harnesses perfect. They are about 4 times as big as the standard 194 bulbs.

Good to know that. Must just be a pretty common problem. I've never read anything about it though.

1. Upgraded, heavier gauge wire from the socket - 12 or 14 ga, some people go heavier.
2. Added a slow fused relay (and I would add a fast fuse to the relay if I was hooking up something unknown to me like the MK3 headlights and maybe even go thicker than 12 ga wire for the power lead).
3. Pull the hot lead from relay straight off the battery for cleaner power, better power.
4. If you want to do it up right add a separate relay for high and low beams (I am talking reg headlights, not HID add-on kits).
5. Either buy plugs for putting things together and/or solder and heat shrink wrap all your connections. Most kits are plug and play but I see not reason to go nuts on that for a single application that does not change.

You can do this two ways - buy a harness upgrade kit already pre-wired which depending on how much power you are pushing through it, might be very expensive. OR, you buy a few 40-50 amp relays (have to double check amps on that), some spools of wire, a box of assorted connectors, and ideally a fused connection you can hang off the hot side of the battery. The advantage to that is if you do have some bull**** short and pop a fuse, it is a lot easier to replace than the relay (as an in-line fuse, just like if you were running dedicated hot lead for the stereo or whatever).

Check out the pre-wired kits at the link I mentioned before. If you look at the components used then you can probably make a pretty quick decision if you want to roll your own or buy one pre-made (ok, actually two, you need one per side).

I don't have any detailed pics of my setup and it is 14 deg out so don't expect any today, but I will gladly pull off the wire guides and show you how mine was done. It's not complicated. Another benefit is you greatly simplify problems with one light works, the other one doesn't, etc. because each one has its own wiring and usually split between relays for high and low if you want to run something stupid like I do, i.e. 80/65 or 110/80 halogen bulbs, both of which you should check your local laws of course before using as they might not be legal if you live in anywhere in the US but wth, the uber highs are what I was really looking for and I defy someone to say "oh those Tsurus have 65W lows vs. 55W lows". The high beams you cannot miss because you may run 200-220W total vs. the usual 130W total across both sides. So don't say I didn't warn ya!

By no means am I saying this is the best or only place to buy this stuff, but they do a very good job of laying out the stuff frankly you can find for a lot less elsewhere if you don't mind assembling your own.

HEADLIGHT WIRE HARNESS/ SOCKETS & RELAYS suvlights.com HEADLIGHT WIRE HARNESS/ SOCKETS, RELAYS, MISC. PARTS

But even a basic upgrade 9004 wiring kit is at least $30 and serious sets 2, 3, or 4 times that for some relays, wire, plugs, fuses, and other stuff already put together for you in a manner you just might end up pulling some of hit apart anyway (for example if you want your fogs to run with either high or low beam).

Nice thing when you're done besides having lights is if you do a clean job it's really easy to troubleshoot later if something goes wrong. I never have had a problem so I assume that is true because it sounds better and makes sense.

Like I said it is effin cold out and dark so I apologize for the lack of pictures here, but you if you zoom in you can see at least one relay with the white plug coming in from either highs or lows (second one is covered up by the OEM relay box) and where they hook up to my pos battery cable from the trunk near the MAF/intake. I have some cleaning up to do there and would like to have a better setup for where the grounds come together, someday soon...

It is a common problem, I have a new spare stalk for my U13 with the fog switch on it I haven't installed yet just because it was cheap and NIB overstock.