Thread: This Is A HeadLight Bulb Question.

Thanks for the info. Is there an overall better H4/9003 lamp than the Silverstars?


It is my understanding that the Tsuru reflector-assembly was not designed for an HID kit. Therefore the results are always less than ideal when putting in an HID kit of any sort (?).

I do like the light output of the HID's. However, I *think* I'll have pretty good results with the Silverstars and a true high-low beam function.

That would be both a better assembly/reflector and better lamp than '93 Nissan stock.

Shawn you should contact Luispeed and have him make you a custom set of projector Tsuru lights so that you aren't blinding everyone and still get to enjoy your light.

Shawn... I went with a Project Kit from Liu that worked great... but wasn't to keen on the look. But I did go with with just keeping the ballest and lowering the lights about 4" down with adjustment and its much better. Just don't go anything over 6k output on the bulbs.... that's what on coming traffic really hates.

just my 2 cents.

Silver stars are nice.... But don't last worth a shit. I have tried 4 different company's... And all the same.... little over or under 12 months.. and they blow. Plus... at $25 a shot when you can get a PAIR or HIDS from http://www.ddmtuning.com/ for $15 for lows and $35 for high/low.... And they last!

You won't find any year aftermarket headlights... even stock for our year cars that are made for HID's. You just have to adjust them down to help out on comers.

And on my personal experience.... with HID's... I have yet to had to use the high beam and I live in Wisconsin now near from with deer almost in BFE.

hids in a composite housing is really a poor idea. if you had halogen projector beams i could accept that........but not with b13 lights.

you want philips xtravision bulbs. they have a new coil winding for a tighter hot spot, thus, creating more light on the road. it is completely clear glass so they dont filter out any useable light, however, it has a blue band at the end of the bulb (far away from the hot spot) to cast blue/white light into the beam. i have them in my subaru and its bright as hell.

I ended up going with the Narva Rangepower+50, which is a German bulb much like the OSRAM Silverstar, or Philips Xtravision. They all put out 1750 lumens vs. stock halogen bulbs at 1500 lumens.

If your headlight is a 9005 or 9006, go with an HIR bulb. 2500 lumens of output ftw. I purchased the HIR bulbs for my highbeams, since they don't make them lowbeam in an H1 I opted for the above mentioned Narva bulb.

For the foglights, I went with the CPI Universal Gold, which is a selective yellow bulb.

Yea but for the price.... how long do they last? Can't be that much longer than Silverstars.

I run PIAA bulbs in my B13:

Amazon.com: PIAA 19614 HB1-9004 Style Xtreme White Plus 65/45W=120/95-Watt Bulb - Twin Pack: Automotive

After I bought my first set, I read reports of them burning out quickly for some people. However I put my first set in approx. 10 years ago and the pass side one is still going. 6 months ago the driver's side one went out, but because it got wet after a rock put a hole in my headlight glass. We also had them in my Mom's Integra for 5 years; they were still working when we traded it in. I really like them, they produce a slightly whiter light than standard bulbs. I've never seen a lumens number on them, but they were significantly brighter than the OEM ones but I can't compare to the Silverstar. However my brights show me plenty.

ive purchased silverstars and like the light output , they seem to not last as long though. used sylvania cool blues as a cheaper alternative with similar light output. ** noted i had really clear headlights**

Silverstars are not worth the money you spend on them. It's proven that the light output in lumens is less than a factory OEM bulb, which means they're not brighter. They just have the "illusion" that they're brighter because of the tint of the bulb.

Wayne - The OSRAM and Narva bulbs last MUCH longer, because there's no tint on the bulb that gets super hot and cracks the bulb or destroys the filament.

They're just like any OEM bulb, the difference being the filament like Pete mentioned above being wound tighter.