How To: Modify Highport Throttle Bracket To Use Lowport Cable
So, as many of us that have replaced our lowport motors with highports know, the throttle cable of the lowport is slightly longer than the highport uses. As a result, most people replace the throttle cable with the highport cable and go on their merry way.
Then, there are guys like me that don't want to spend money on something that could be solved for free through modification. This one is fairly simple, but as I've been asked for clarification and pics, here's the full version for everyone curious.
Basically, you want to elongate the mounting hole that's closest to the throttle body. The rear will also be an elongated hole, but will be a new hole, and the old one won't be used. Bear in mind, when I did this to my bracket, I rotated the bracket 180deg. The hole that usually is closest to the throttle body is now furthest away. I found this easiest for making it sit further back to get more tension on the throttle cable.
*NOTE*
As is usual for me, images in the threads are thumbnails. Click them for a full-sized HQ image.
As you can see, this can be a tough process, but is easily accomplished with a drill press. I didn't have one at my disposal this day, so it looks like crap.
The final step is to bend the front and rear mounting locations. Why? First, it can add additional adjustment for you. This modification will get you working, but it's a far cry from having the amount of adjustability you would get from a highport cable. Also, if you bend the rear one back to give more adjustment and don't bend the front, you'll have contact between the cable and the front bracket. This not only causes wear on the cable, but will cause the cable to get caught on the bracket and the throttle won't fully reset to idle when you release the pedal.
Cruise control will be tougher, but not impossible. Since I don't have the cable installed for that, I couldn't show you what it will look like with cruise installed. To keep cruise it will be significantly tougher, but I could figure it out. If you want to see how cruise could be incorporated, send me a spare bracket and I'll fab it up and edit the how-to. Obviously, whomever donates the bracket gets a free modified bracket at no cost.
*NOTE*
When bending the mounting locations, just use a rubber hammer and take it easy. The metal used is not very tough, and is easy to manipulate. Light, repetitive taps with a mallet is all you need. Hit it too hard, and you risk over-bending the metal and causing fatigue in the stress point, meaning your bracket has a high risk of now breaking. My advice: don't risk it. Take your time.
Then, there are guys like me that don't want to spend money on something that could be solved for free through modification. This one is fairly simple, but as I've been asked for clarification and pics, here's the full version for everyone curious.
Basically, you want to elongate the mounting hole that's closest to the throttle body. The rear will also be an elongated hole, but will be a new hole, and the old one won't be used. Bear in mind, when I did this to my bracket, I rotated the bracket 180deg. The hole that usually is closest to the throttle body is now furthest away. I found this easiest for making it sit further back to get more tension on the throttle cable.
*NOTE*
As is usual for me, images in the threads are thumbnails. Click them for a full-sized HQ image.
As you can see, this can be a tough process, but is easily accomplished with a drill press. I didn't have one at my disposal this day, so it looks like crap.
The final step is to bend the front and rear mounting locations. Why? First, it can add additional adjustment for you. This modification will get you working, but it's a far cry from having the amount of adjustability you would get from a highport cable. Also, if you bend the rear one back to give more adjustment and don't bend the front, you'll have contact between the cable and the front bracket. This not only causes wear on the cable, but will cause the cable to get caught on the bracket and the throttle won't fully reset to idle when you release the pedal.
Cruise control will be tougher, but not impossible. Since I don't have the cable installed for that, I couldn't show you what it will look like with cruise installed. To keep cruise it will be significantly tougher, but I could figure it out. If you want to see how cruise could be incorporated, send me a spare bracket and I'll fab it up and edit the how-to. Obviously, whomever donates the bracket gets a free modified bracket at no cost.
*NOTE*
When bending the mounting locations, just use a rubber hammer and take it easy. The metal used is not very tough, and is easy to manipulate. Light, repetitive taps with a mallet is all you need. Hit it too hard, and you risk over-bending the metal and causing fatigue in the stress point, meaning your bracket has a high risk of now breaking. My advice: don't risk it. Take your time.
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