Thread: How To: Crank pulley -- Oil Pump -- Spacer (all common combinations explained!)

Second post updated with a snippet from my build thread and real life pictures.

Added Greg's sweet picture of the two different lengths of oil pump drive collars to the first post.

wat would be the issue with using a VE oil pump wit DE UR pulley on a DE engine with a DE oil pump drive collar. from your diagram it seems like the pulley wont line up with the other pulleys

but if I run a VE pulley with VE oil pump and a DE oil pump drive collar it also would not line up right. I would have to get a VE drive collar right? how easy is that to get?

can I use a DE pulley with a VE drive collar and VE oil pump with the spacer?

Hey Reedom I can't believe I left you hanging on those questions back in January. I'll send you a PM and point you here for the answers.

There are two problems with this. First off you have the problem Ashton and I ran into where the DE oil pump drive collar is not long enough to fully protrude from the VE oil pump so when you go to tighten everything down the pulley will crush into the oil pump inner gear and that will ruin the oil pump. The inner gear will crush into the back of the oil pump housing and you'll destroy the oil pump housing. If you turn the engine like Ashton did you'll ruin the entire pump assembly.

The second problem is that even if things didn't get crushed, you'd have the pulley misalignment problem because the DE UR pulley (just like the sotck DE pulley) has the wrong "offset" and has too much material.

Correct. The pulley will not line up correctly in this situation either. This is why the spacer exists, so you can have the correct pulley alignment. Also without the spacer if you tightened things down you would destroy the VE oil pump as well.

You would have to get the VE drive collar, or you can get the spacer from Gspec. The drive collars don't seem too hard to come by. I've seen a few for sale now and again. However the spacer from Gspec is always in stock and much easier to get a hold of. It is cheaper too. The only tiny advantage to the VE collar is that it is all aluminum so it weighs a few grams less.

No, that would be too much material. You will want to use either the VE drive collar or the DE drive collar with the spacer. The spacer basically turns the DE drive collar into a VE drive collar. Take a look at this picture to see what I mean. The spacer just makes the DE collar the same length as the VE collar.

I'm confused Ben, to run my DE UR pulley on my VE, do I need to machine the pulley or "...use either the VE drive collar or the DE drive collar with the spacer." ?

Sorry for the confusion. I don't think I've addressed your specific combination directly. I did show why it won't work in the diagram. Go look at the "DE pulley on the VE engine" section. The DE pulley on the VE engine makes it so the pulleys don't line up properly. Everything combined is too long.

There are two ways to correct this.

1) Have the DE pulley machined down approximately 7/16" or 11.1125mm (or ask Greg how thick his spacer is to find out the proper dimension) and you'll be all set.

2) Get a DE oil pump drive collar and install that (remove the VE collar first) in the engine and have two slots machined into your DE pulley about 2mm deep to make it look like the face of Greg's new style spacer.


Your third option is to just buy a VE pulley. That will work too obviously. =]

Thanks for clearing that up. This is a very informative thread. Props to you!

So I have VVL head swap on my s14 rwd det with det collar and spec spacer and VE pump. I want to run a fwd ati pulley so the timing marks line up. What do I need to do to make this happen? Will the belts for alternator and ps lineup?

Sorry for the late reply. I never noticed your post until now. That might be beyond the scope of this thread and my knowledge. If I had to guess, you could use the FWD ATI damper with your current setup and it would work fine as far as the oil pump clearance is concerned, and it should line up the belts properly. However, that's just a guess.
If you could find out the "offset" of your RWD DET pulley and compare it to FWD pulley you'd have all you need. If they are the same (and I think they are) then I think you should be golden.

I figured I would dig up my extra pulleys and take some pics to add to this thread. I'll be able to take pics of a stock DE pulley and a stock VE pulley as well to compare and post if that's ok Ben?



^BACK SIDE

Gspec pulley on left and UR pulley on the right. You can see how the UR pulley extrudes out more than the Gspec pulley in the pic. So from what I see, if I took both pulleys to a machine shop, they should be able to measure the extruded part of the UR pulley and machine it down to look like the Gspec pulley. After that, it should be plug and play without anything else needed.



^FRONT SIDE

In the pic you can see how the UR pulley has a indentation and the Gspec pulley is flush. I'm not sure if this affects anything with the nut securing the pulley to the crank.



Gspec on top, UR pulley on bottom. UR pulley outer diameter is smaller.



Gspec on top, UR on bottom. The inner diameter of the pulleys are the same size.



^Gspec on the left, UR on the right. The pulleys have the same overall height and the distance from the inner face and outer edge measurements are about the same on each side just by looking at them.