Thread: How To: Properly create a crimped butt connection

We all know soldering is arguably the best type of connection but sometimes we get lazy and want to quick wire something up. I'm doing this for one specific member that LOVES wire crimps, but mostly for everyone elses benefit as well who may not know the proper way of doing this.

Step one:



Gather your supplies. There are different size connections for different sized wire. Be sure to have the correct one on hand otherwise it isn't as good of a connection.

Strip wire back on wire your wire you want to connect one end to. Be sure its not too much as you run the risk of the wire being exposed if there is too much insulation off the wire.

Step two:



Grab butt connection. Locate the split inside the connection (see the red marking in the picture). This is VERY important as it allows our connection to hold tightly. I have tried this many other ways and the best way is explained below.

Step three:



Insert butt connector into pliers as shown with the split in the butt connection AWAY from the pointed part of the pliers. Place wire into connection and squeeze tightly to crimp connection.

Final Result:



This is a properly done wire connection that should hold very tightly forever. To double check this, grab the connection with one hand and the wire with the other. Pull away from each other.

You can now tape or shrink wrap this connection to further protect it.

Happy connecting!

Good writeup - I've botched these a lot (at-home stereo installs). I ultimately went to the posilocks my brother had lying around. They are also just really convenient AND you can reuse them if ever necessary (like upgrading/replacing an inferior or missing head unit) later on. F-ing awesome.

Some times the simple write ups are some of the best ones.

You missed the final step. Hint: your crimping tool has a position closest to the fulcrum for a reason.

There are 2 dies for a reason. The one you used is for uninsulated connectors, the other one is for insulated connectors which is the one you should have used. What happens when you use the one you did is you stretch out and can even puncture the insulation then it is no good. You can us that one if you plan on heat shrinking each connection which also keeps out water and dirt.

Care to tell what you mean? This is all I've ever done with crimps outside of taping or heat shrinking them.


I agree 100% that you CAN puncture the insulation when doing it this way. HOWEVER, I have still yet to puncture one. If I did, I would cut it off and do it again. The outer covering is pretty resiliant.

With your method of putting the split away from the pointy part when you crimp might eliminate the need for the last step.

I put the split towards the pointy end, then finish off the crimp with the oval shape on the pliers. Make sure the dimple is facing either towards the fulcrum or directly away from it before you "sandwich" the crimp with the oval section.

This has given me my most consistent crimps in the past. It also covers your ass if you happen to poke through the insulation in the previous step.

Care to post a picture of what you are talking about? I guess I'm a bit fuzzy on what your trying to say. My appologies.

I can't get any pics up right now.

Put the split towards the pointy part of the crimp tool (opposite of what you recommend) and crimp as usual.

This will produce a dimple in the insulation and metal part of the connector squeezing the wire in place. Take the connector and put it back into the pliers but this time bring it all the way inside the pliers to the last section of the tool (it looks like an oval when the tool is closed). Make sure that the dimple in the connector is facing "out" before you crimp again. When I say facing "out" I mean if you point the pliers up towards the ceiling when you crimp, make sure the dimple is facing up towards the ceiling as well.

When you're done the dimple should be mostly closed up. That last step is what most people skip. Don't skip this step!

Give it a try and let me know if it's any better than your previous method.

i would not use those posi locks if it was to save my life, you cant even see the quality of the connection inside. im an electrician by trade and i solder everything a soldering iron and roll of solder is so cheap like why use anything else. but back to those things i would rather just strip twist and tape a connection than use those