Thread: Few things...

Well, I got that illustrious CEL yesterday, while cruising around.

Codes were 0505, 0205 (IIRC), and 34 with 36.

Now, I've replaced the ENTIRE intake manifold, and utilized the components that were on the spare manifold to rule out the IACV, yet I still get that damn code.

Knock sensor, well it's a B14, Calum says that B14's are too damn sensitive. (I'm running BC STG 3 cams, if you don't remember). I'm not worried about the knock sensor, tbh. The Detonation sensor circuit (which I thought was the same thing as the knock sensor?!), has tripped a few times as well.

So what are the possibilities of me replacing the damn IACV AGAIN, (this will be the third IACV/AAC combo), and keeping the light at bay?

If I'm cruising thru a school zone at 15mph in 2nd gear, the car bucks violently, like the IACV isn't even functioning.



Cliff's Notes: Knock sensor annoying. IACV yet again failing (3rd replacement), detonation sensor curiosity. Code 0505, not sure what that is?

Have you traced the wires back to the ECU? Are they getting corroded? Try some electrical connector spray, it helps with connectivity and helps prevent corrosion.

the iacv at lower speeds is probably closing causing your car to want to stall and start bucking like you said, have you tried opening up the idle screw some? maybe have to deal with higher idle, but it might solve your bucking issues as maybe with the more air going through it wont close completely at lower speeds, that is what i had to do is i also replaced my iacv and without getting codes never really seemed to be able to get the iacv to fuction perfectly and get a really low idle mine is around 1400rpm but i also used my software to semi calibrate the iacv and then used the idle screw so it wouldnt close completely at low speeds....

I guess I could bump the idle up some more, and open up the IACV some. Just hoping it's not the ECU, even though it's highly suspect at this time.

yeah that definitly sucks, do you have a pretty low steady idle? somes not all but with cams you have to bump the idle to around 1000rpm to not cause certain problems, i know my car doesnt like anything below that but larger cams sometimes need higher idle. you can also if you find you do need to raise the idle to get the idle problem fixed verses having to replace the ecu you can always add more fuel at idle to get a more smoothe idle so its not so damn annoying, if your not a fan of a loopy idle adding more fuel at idle i have found will steady out and smooth the cams depending on how large this might be something you would want to do if the iacv wont fix

TeKKie
Have you checked you Air Regulator? If its sticking open, it will also cause this..
I would pull the Air Regulator & test it.. Also check the Air Regulator hoses for cracks/leaks.

Also, does your IACV have the spring in it? If so, good. If not, get the upgraded one with the spring inside. I hate the IACV/ACC unit too...
Its a royal PITA to get it working right. I messed up mine by simply cleaning it and not changing the gasket...
Lesson learned: Always change the freaking gasket!!

^^ X2... That's what my issue was. I personally think that's what caused my old IACV to take a crapola!

Damn I don't wanna have to pull it again! Everytime I pull it I curse the car because it's a lowport.

This is the second air regulator on the car. It's been checked before being put on the car, and hoses were replaced along with it.

I'm going to try bumping the idle to around 1400 and see how things improve. Right now it's set to around 1100rpm, and obviously a litte lopey.

LOL.. Air Regular & IACV are both electronic devices... Could last 12+ years or die in 2 days.. My experience has shown me that: New OEM units are better and more dependable than all aftermarket units.

If you know that the hoses are good AND you changed the IACV Gasket, just test both units with a DVM to make sure everything is within specs electronically.

Your lopey is being mainly caused by your cams, but you can improve this with performing some test & adjustments. I posted a idle/hunting writeup here with additional comments here. Check those things in the order listed and you should find the culprit... The writeup is long but only takes about 10-15 mins each to complete...

Regular tuneup stuff can also help: plugs, rotor, cap, wires and the PCV... The PCV is often overlooked....

Thanks for the links.

I've replaced the PCV valve as the old one was defective. It rattled, but you could blow thru it from both sides with little effort. I'm waiting on another dizzy all together as mine is worse for wear. I'm finding oil in the cap area.

New plugs, rotor, cap. Wires are on the way (have new wanna-be OEM, NGK blues are en route).

I haven't bothered to check using the multimeter, I guess I should go ahead and do it

I'm really wanting to find a way to do away with IACV communication all together. Hell if I have to keep the idle up around 1400rpm to keep things on the up and up, I'm willing to do that.

As an aside, I just filled up the tank, and I'm getting an average of 24mpg WOOT! Helluvalot better than 200mi. to the tank I got before I replaced that damn o2 sensor (again). That's also with me being a leadfoot from time to time, and 3 WOT runs on the track.