Thread: How to build a 300 WHP/Liter SR (on the cheap?) discussion.

Dan and I went with this for his BMW. =]

im pretty damn sure he's much more than aware of whats needed aswell im just adding the rest of the parts needed to the whole recipe

not a pop at ben fenner, but i said in another thread recently, i've seen so many people say 'im going to build the worlds greatest.....(name vehicle of choice) only to get a few parts for the engine build to then realise what else is involved and promptly sell everything off and disappear.

if i was to do a cheap build, i'd just buy the unused stuff the dreamers are trying to get rid of and get as much second hand quality parts as i could.

I found this gem from that thread:



It seems pretty clear at least that the VE head is what's going to make this happen. The short rod (Edit: short stroke, not rod) of the SR16 is very much in the spirit of this build. 480 WHP might not embarrass every V8 at dyno day but it'll still open some eyes and gain some respect.

(Makes me wonder why it's taken so long for the community to latch onto the VE or the SR16 stuff? I guess it's all newer parts that are finally coming down to a price some of us can afford?)

Go look at the build in my signature or better yet check out the last build I helped with. I know what I'm getting into as far as peripherals are concerned. I know you were trying to bring things into perspective and I realize that this may just be a dream engine. It's not something I plan on doing now. I made no promises of that. This is an information gathering opportunity for me (and others) to learn what we can about the nitty gritty of the SR20 (and friends) engine. I've already learned more in this thread about them than in the past 5 years. I put off learning that stuff until now when I can make most use of the knowledge. The SR20 or SR16 or CA18 might not be in my future. They might lose out to a different engine. I'm here to find out what they can do on a budget. I know you didn't mean me any disrespect. I don't mean you any either.

This is terrific advice. Buying a project mid-way or even complete is a great way to save a ton of money. =]

i think you meant short stroke short stroke long rod!

well see who gets to 600hp first on a budget! the biggest money saver is doing things your self and knowing how to shop! if you go out and just hit buy now on everything your build will be very expensive, like keiron said, either buy new used parts of peoples part out, or shop like hell, there isnt anything i bought in my set that wasnt on a deal and i got 80% of the parts new and if they werent new they were pretty close to new

you dont need a VE to make 600hp it just makes it alot easier, youll use alot less boost to get there so thats why i chose to use the ve motor, our blocks are robust despite being aluminum so sleeving is not necessary you just need a good set of forged pistons and rods, i have yet to have problems with stock head bolts or stock nissan head gasket so thats what i use, you can get rid of tons of the bull**** parts people waste money on trying to make power... in the end your power lies in ditching your oem based ecu and using a full stand alone

i wasn't suggesting you personally weren't, alot of people however are.

Look up Mazworx and you will see a RWD VE+T in action. The machining is actually done on the rods...Also if you want a great T4 twinscroll that spools like a 35r lmk...I may have one for you.

So now you are only looking for around 480whp with a sr16? Why not just use a det? Is it just because you want to impress people with the revs?

I am just asking because i may be missing what you are looking to get out of the build.

Sr16 crank...slower piston speeds=longevity... you can rev the piss out of it, make decent power and easy on the drivetrain too.

Read the first post.