Thread: How to build a 300 WHP/Liter SR (on the cheap?) discussion.

ok understood

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0806_turp_project_low_buck_sr20de/index.html

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/turp_0807_project_low_buck_sr20de_part_2/index.html

I hope to see his VE one day as well. One of my favorite automotive writers.

The VE head flows better to begin with yes. You have to throw a lot of loot into a DE head to make it comparable and at that point you are going to ask yourself "Why didn't I just get a VE and have a mild port?"

If you are gonna do the bottom end anyway you'll also want the better VE oil pump.

Like they said 20V or VET would be ideal but these motors are rare and cost lots more. Worth it imo.

i stand corrected.

well i think more compression could yeild you in better turbo response, ie: if you have higher compression and bigger AR your response might not be as laggy as say a larger AR and lower compression, thats the only reason i could see upping the compression some is if your turbo AR is going to be in the larger range that it might become laggy....i definitly think a responcy 600whp application would be nice..definitly having a wide range powerband would be nice, instead of the normal higher RPM spool small powerband high whp applicaions you always see people build...i definitly would rather take a smaller whp application ie:400whp but a wide range of power, verses a 600whp short powerband app but that just might be me

To summarize it seems a good choice for the task would be to start with a typical SR20VE block and head due to superior oil pump and high head flow. Light, forged piston rods are on the menu. Compression ratio of 8.5:1 to 9.0:1 viable options.

How about pistons? Light, forged pistons a no brainer at this point? Also I still don't think boring out the block is necessary, but could be a good idea if sleeving the block is deemed mandatory (as a "while you're in there" sort of thing). How do we stand on pistons, sleeves and bore size? Is piston slap a thing of the past with forged pistons?

I'm sure the same theory with the piston rods applies here. With the revs we're looking for here it would be prudent to go lighter than stock cast for the pistons. Is it worth the cost and possible downsides?

That's pretty much the way I think too, peak numbers can suck it, I'm wanting to see where the power is in the RPM range, and what the power around that number is like.

10:1 on a larger turbo like I would run in said build would probably yield 600whp across a much broader range than 3-400rpms near redline.

Also, my vdub is running 10:1 compression, and hopefully soon I'll be pushing ~10psi through it... should be fun. 8v heads don't flow at all though

I'm with you 100% there. The idea here really is a dyno queen. I know that sounds bad but don't let it get to you too much. =]

Thanks to Mazworx and companies like CP there are a lot of good options for pistons out there these days.

Such great info there. So hard to resist doing anything and everything to make an engine great. You can make it as deep of a money pit as you want. =]

I would prefer to see a man like Charles Dundan write an article on SR20VE and VET motors. I think I could do a great job myself.

Sometimes the best people dont have an outlet to write articles where other can read it.