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Thread: How to build a 300 WHP/Liter SR (on the cheap?) discussion.

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Posts: 11-20 of 177
2008-09-10 16:32:37
#11
What does a typical RWD SR20DET setup with GT35+ turbo involve?
2008-09-10 16:33:58
#12
Originally Posted by Dustin
Ideally, the less overlap the better on turbo cars, but I don't think you'd notice much difference if the cam isn't TOO extreme.

We're talking 600hp here, that's a lot of power from a 2L, you're going to need to pull out all of the tricks.

10:1 compression because I want torque before the giant turbo spools. Will it work on pump gas? Maybe, but meth+water injection will help that part of it.



Over lap is not a HP killer with turbos if you are going to rev the motor high. The faster the motor revs the less likely the air will be squeezed out.

Building a 600 WHP VE-T should be easy if you are willing to rev it to 9500 RPMs. This has been done before by Mr Charles Dundan. He made 500 WHP at 15 PSi and I think he got over 600 WHP at 21 PSI.

The cook book was basically big turbo, SR16VE cams, Valve springs and retainers, Forged pistons and rods.


If I were to build a 600 WHP turbo motor I would go with a 90mm piston and keep the boost down to 20 PSI but not rev more than 8500 RPMs for savety and longevity.
2008-09-10 16:34:37
#13
i think 600whp is easily attainable, t3/t67 (much cheap then a gt series turbo), forged rods and 9:1 pistons, a little bit of port work and 272cams with 1mm Oversized valves ?? , 1000cc injectors and a standalone you would most likely have to use a twin disk clutch i would think

a decent tune and 25-28psi would get 600whp IMO
2008-09-10 16:42:57
#14
Mike K's poor boy NA build has some good fodder for bottom end toughness.

I would look to the VE motor to make life easier, maybe a GTiR motor if you want to spend a lot of time shaking the bugs out of a motor that could potentially be almost 20 years old.

Definitely look to Mazworx, and Freak. See what Fred Casey can offer you as well. You know "pull their coat" like Icebrg slim would.
2008-09-10 17:11:47
#15
Originally Posted by Andreas
Over lap is not a HP killer with turbos if you are going to rev the motor high. The faster the motor revs the less likely the air will be squeezed out.
Point taken.


Originally Posted by Andreas
Building a 600 WHP VE-T should be easy
You'd recommend starting with a VE then because of the superior head flow design? Why else? What is it about VEs that helps them take to revs better than a DE? They don't have solid lifters do they?

Originally Posted by Andreas
The cook book was basically big turbo, SR16VE cams, Valve springs and retainers, Forged pistons and rods.
This is what I'm talking about here. A simple build. Solid lifters in this build?
Pardon my VE ignorance but when creating the cams the engineer has control over the high profile cam lobe and the low profile lobe completely independently, yes?

Originally Posted by Andreas
If I were to build a 600 WHP turbo motor I would go with a 90mm piston and keep the boost down to 20 PSI but not rev more than 8500 RPMs for savety and longevity.
If you increase the displacement then WHP goal moves higher as we're looking for specific output here. 90mm pistons gives 2.1 liters I'm guessing? Then you'd need to make 630 WHP. You think that could be done with 8,500 rpms? Also you've just spent all that money to bore the block and made your job harder...
2008-09-10 17:14:53
#16
Originally Posted by Benito
Mike K's poor boy NA build has some good fodder for bottom end toughness.
Hit us with links.

Originally Posted by Benito
I would look to the VE motor to make life easier
Because of superior head flow?

Originally Posted by Benito
Definitely look to Mazworx, and Freak. See what Fred Casey can offer you as well. You know "pull their coat" like Icebrg slim would.
I'll get to that stage when I have to. For now I'd love to pick the brains of the forum members.
2008-09-10 17:17:46
#17
10:1 i would say is going to be too much compression to get real aggressive in the tuning, it will also limit the ammount of boost you will be able to run, turbo compression esp for a 600whp application is going to be more in the 8:5:1-9:5:1 range...i think alot of people when they think 600whp they always think bigger is better but i honestly feel that its really the choice parts that are given to the motor, and the choice work, you dont HAVE to have HUGE pistons and HUGE crank and all that.. i mean the sr20det are built to handle pretty impressive numbers out of the box, from there its just alot of upgrading component parts ie: turbo,manifold,exhaust,injectors,tuning,ect..........
2008-09-10 17:22:23
#18
hmm .. block i would use stock det rods, 86.5 mm 9.0.1 compression, stock crank 86mm, some good bearings( mazworx h22 race.. i think that is what they are called) ... ve oil pump, (basically prep for decent rpm) arp main and rod bolts, greddy or cosworth or aebs head studs... i believe the turbo to build around is a hta3582r from forced perfromance... proven on the stock disp. evolutions to make 700whp( albeit at some really high boost levels.. but i am just showing the potential) .... it spools up better than standard gt35r. i might be wrong bu ti think 600whp could be made with this turbo and a ve head @ relatively low boost levels( 20 psi.)
2008-09-10 17:25:23
#19
Originally Posted by anomaly
hmm .. block i would use stock det rods, 86.5 mm 9.0.1 compression, stock crank 86mm, some good bearings( mazworx h22 race.. i think that is what they are called) ... ve oil pump, (basically prep for decent rpm) arp main and rod bolts, greddy or cosworth or aebs head studs... i believe the turbo to build around is a hta3582r from forced perfromance... proven on the stock disp. evolutions to make 700whp( albeit at some really high boost levels.. but i am just showing the potential) .... it spools up better than standard gt35r. i might be wrong bu ti think 600whp could be made with this turbo and a ve head @ relatively low boost levels( 20 psi.)


i would go with nothing less than eagle rods, but in reality i would go with more like pauter,carrillo for those kinda power
2008-09-10 17:30:20
#20
u dont think the stock rods are capable? i am pretty sure that there has been guys that have actually accomplished this goal on a stock det bottom end( rear wheel drive det) with no problems... well as far as the connecting rods go.... or... are tyou suggesting the eagles or pauters for piece of mind/added security?
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