Thread: How to build a 300 WHP/Liter SR (on the cheap?) discussion.

Yes, many advantages of going with the SR16. Any guesses how the valve train will hold up to 9,000 rpms?
It has hydraulic lifters, yes?
Those would have to be replaced with solid lifters yes?
I'm still wondering if there's anything inherently better about the VE head that helps them rev higher. Also if there's any difference between the valve trains in the SR16VE head vs. the SR20VE head other than the cam. I assume the SR16VE head has stiffer springs to go along with it's more aggressive cam but are there any design differences or lighter parts, etc.?
The springs would have to be replaced anyway though, so I guess it doesn't matter.

sr16ve head uses a different design from your de head in terms of "lifters", all you would need is valve springs and retainers and you will be good to where ever your turbo dies off

My car will make over 500hp on pump gas but I have alot more money then what most of you guys are talking about in the motor.

My motor is sleeved, nasty ported head with stock valves, supertech s&rs, 1/2 in head studs, and much more.

I will be reving to 9k or whenever the 35r stops making power but I will be using cbr coils on M&W pro 14 box.

Motor price is one thing but the electronics and tuning to get a ve to make 600 on pump needs alot of R&D with cams and porting before you will get anywhere close.

I know that there are on some honda guys out there making around the 600 on pump but they have put soooo much R&D in the motor to make the power.

I just don't think 600 hp, pump gas and cheap should be in the same sentence.

^^^ well u have a nasty everything. To put everything in perspective for everyone. A fully assembled short block with best parts will run you around 5 thou. A VE head will all the bells and whistles will cost the same or a bit more. Of course this setup will be more than capable if 600hp efficiently. Moreso in the 4 digits...

from my personal expierence in the 600 range, i really feel that the motor is only half the battle, when you have that much power to the front wheels there are 2 variables that become more important than the motor in the build, which is A: suspension for traction B:engine managment for both tuning and traction ie: Antilag/2step ect.... even if its a dyno queen, even if it revs really high and has a small powerband, traction and tuning for the motor is most important in the build otherwise if you have 600whp and spin through every gear, its pointless

putting it all together and making work in harmony is the hard part most definately.

Let me stop you right there and kindly direct you to the 10th sentence of the first paragraph in this post.

From what I'm hearing it sounds like sleeving is not essential. I completely understand that it's highly recommended, but how awesome would it be to save $1,000 and not have to do it? Yah, super awesome. If it holds, more confidence in the block can be gained. If it fails, then the limit of the block can be known. Seems like a win/win to me as long as it's not your money, right?

Let me apologize to Andreas Miko here for a second. I've been doing a ton of reading on the SR20VE and SR16VE and it seems like you covered most of it way back in 2002 on the old forum. I found post after post of good explanations of the engines by you and you must feel like you're in the twilight zone explaining it all over again (probably for the umteenth time) six years later. Thanks for hanging with me and getting in on the spirit of the cheap/reliable/high output build even if we're just tossing ideas around with no real plans.

People have been making rediculous power on the stock block without sleeving. I guess it just depends on where you want to spend the money. I haven't heard of ANY sr breaking sleeves on the stock 86mm bore. It is possible, but there are so many ppl making rediculous power on the stock sleeves. If I were building a race car I would sleeve it, but if it is driven on the street the money is better used elsewhere. If a stock DE can make over 500whp and the pistons fail first, then the sleeves are prob ok

I will gladly take my VE to 500whp and max this turbo out, and I will do it without worry. The motor isn't built as much as some other's, but it should hold up to 500whp no prob. I am more scared of lifting the head off the block at that point. I am using the REdesigned ARP head studs torqued to 105lb ft. These should hold the head in place.

If you are shooting for 600whp then sleeves are not necessary, you will have other things to worry about. The VE head will flow a lot more without restriction so I would go with a big turbo to gain tons of airflow on low boost, and utilize a twin scroll manifold to help with midrange power. This is the winning combo here! 600whp can be had on 20psi or less of boost! You just need a big efficient turbo. If I could build my VET again I would have gone straight to twin scroll and the same turbo with some valve springs. It would spool around 3500rpm or so and make 500whp no problem. Maybe even on pump gas too.

I know that a stock block can handle 600 whp on a 86mm bore but any bigger pistion I wouldn't try it.

One thing I think we are forgeting is a nice intake mani, 4 in exhaust and maybe a vertical IC for better responding set up. An other thing that might help in make the power easier would be a air to water IC set up, you could run shorter ic piping and the AIT will be lower also.