Thread: How to build a 300 WHP/Liter SR (on the cheap?) discussion.

You can get one here on the forum every now and again for ~$700-800. I concur on the springs and retainers, but I think the N1 cams will be too much, the stock cams will get you where you want.



As do I, my brother has a turbo BMW. Based on a BSFC of 0.45-.055 I think you will need at least a set of 1000cc injectors. As for the Walbro, I personally would not trust it that high. If you do decide to use it, I would recommend re-wiring with a dedicated relay so it can keep up.



No prob, I saw a VE-T car dyno low 500's on 90 octane this past weekend, with nearly everything that has been listed in this thread so far.

http://www.mazworx.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2709


http://www.mazworx.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2784


http://www.mazworx.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2703


http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/apexi-head-gasket-nissan-sr20det.html

^^ I wonder who it was!

Ben, IIRC the N1 springs with alow you to rev to 9k. if not BC and I think Supertech(sp?) makes a set.

You know I'm in Jamaica right? I'll give you a hint though, remember that fully built block I sold/sent down here.....

kinda figured it was him, if it wasn't Paul but I know Paul wouldn't have finished his car this quick !

You could just skip the whole car part if all you want to do is make 300hp/liter. Build up the engine and take it to an engine dyno. No drivetrain loss.

If you need to put it in a car though I'd probably pick the RWD block. This way you can put it into a 240. Transmissions on those are better then on the FWD Nissans.

I appreciate the idea, but this is 300 WHP/Liter.

It was a RWD design to begin with. As far as I know the only difficult parts to deal with as far as FWD vs. RWD goes is the coolant oultlets. But aren't these on the head? So unless you can find a RWD VE head one would have to deal with a bunch of crap regardless.
Also, I wouldn't go through the trouble of building a motor just to put it in an S chassis. No offense.

Added crank scraper, oil pan baffle, ARP rod bolts and some items linkafied.

$1400 SR16VE long block (1999 or newer for 8 counterweight crank)
$525 Light/strong pistons with OEM rings
$830 Light/strong rods with OEM GTi-R 19mm bearing
$200 ARP rod bolts
$342 Stiff valve springs to rev to over 9,000!
$220 A'pexi headgasket
$300 Strong headstuds (brand?)
$350 Crank scraper and oil pan baffle
$300 Fuel rail (DIY)
$350 1,000cc injectors
$350 Bosch 044 fuel pump

Subtotal: $8,167


$600 Intake manifold (DIY)
$600 Exhaust manifold (DIY)
$300 Holset HX-35 (used)
$300 Exhaust
$100 Intercooler
$100 Charge pipes

Subtotal: $2,000


$400 6 puck clutch kit
$250 RWD transmission

Subtotal: $650


$2,300 AEM Universal EMS
$280 Innovate Wideband controller

Subtotal: $2,580


Total: $10,397

Wait, so you act like i am not reading the whole post when i say the goal is 480 hp, then you say yourself you are gonna use the 1.6 and shoot for 480 hp.

Well anyway, what are you looking at for compression with the 16ve? I am just asking because you were saying you wanted to stay with pump gas. Also if you are using the sr16, will this bolt up to any rwd tranys without the cost of custom fitment?

I would say if you want to make the power cheaply just start with a det bottom end, lets just say gtir: Get some je or cp 9:1 pistons, get the stock rods gone over(balanced, shot peened etc.) use arp rod bolts, or just get eagle rods and be done with it. new nissan bearings and thats about it for the bottom end. Bolt on a sr20ve head with some upgraded s&r, and some mild port work, figure out which cams suit your rev needs, sr16,vet or n1's. Arp or like headstuds, and a cosworth hg. For a turbo i would look at something that isnt gonna need 30psi to make 480whp. Remember pump gas and very high boost levels dont mix very well. You could use a sc61 or a gt35r Or look into some of the gt series turbo that the dsm guys are making good power with.

Or you could always go with what miko said and use a stroker kit of some sort to make more hp at a lower boost level.

Oh you may want to add some sort of suspension, brakes and a diff, that is unless you wanna die the first time you get to drive it. I dont think the 10+year old 240 stuff will hold up very well.

Just my .02

You might be able to find some place like this on our side of the pond for the intake manifold stuff
http://www.rossmachineracing.com/intakepartspage.html

The AJ4 has some good pics of his manifold you might want to check out if you haven't already http://www.sr20-forum.com/showthread.php?t=603