Thread: 17 year old car. Anyone know YET why we need to get extra adjustment from the clutch?

That's weird, I was using oem bearings on my clutches. Only 2 of which had issues. Did Nissan change part #s or something?

Well,Mikos right(of course about the tranny saver bracket.I recently purchased a car that has one on it already
Beefy peice,I would love to buy another for my other car,so count me in.
It dont flex at all with ACT HDPP,on my VE.When I first got the car,it was TERRIBLE...gritty,misadjusted,cheapo that looked new.Pushed you back in the seat to shift,lol.
I adjusted it,and it lasted like 100 miles,lol...SNAP
Put a NIssan New one on....WOW.Like new,smooth as butter.

As far a cables go,I have redrilled a bracket before,and it was fine with a stock clutch and OEM cable.Helped get more adjustability and life out of it.

All I need is a few stock brackets and I will start making them again. I made a few of these things but people never sent back the stock brackets for cores to keep this thing going.

If I can get about 10 brackets I will start this thing again.

So if anyone ones one please PM me and I will start a list.

I was gonna say the same thing, It's an old school fix but it works!!!

OK, THIS JUST HIT ME. The reason why we are all having this problem could be because we are in fact using a 2001 PP. This PP was designed for a car with a hydrolic clutch, which is self adjusting. Also, remember, when using a B15 tranny in a B13/14, you have to swap lever arms, which are positioned differently. In term, constantly stretching out clutch cables. I never had this problem in the 90's. It all started when JWT and Nissan made all SR20 PP's universal. Just because it bolts up, does not mean it is designed to work with the 91-99 transmission. I can almost guarentee the fingers of a 91-99 PP are not as flat. When i mentioned this a few years ago, I was told I was crazy. Saving cost on production may be at the expense of our adjustment. Can someone elseexpand on this thought?

Pretty white. You are correct and wrong at the same time.

This problem has been happening before the B15 and P11 cars came out.

It does have to do with the clutch fingers being further in.

The problem can also be seen on diffrent TO bearings that have diffrent hights from diffrent manufactures.

Thats why my tranny brakcet works wonders. It has an xtra 1/2 inch adjustment and cam be made with more adjustment. Also it has the brace for the very heavy presure plates so the bracket does not bend back when the clutch is being pressed down thus loosing more adjustment.

I just did my clutch the other day and ran into the adjustment problem. The clutch cable is OEM for a 2.0 and pretty new. Pressure plate is JWT. I knew of the copper pipe trick but felt like there had to be a better solution. Andreas's bracket is the ultimate solution, and is more of a permanent fix but I managed to grab 2 washers at Lowe's with 1" inside diameter for $1.66. I put them between the bracket and the cable moving the cable back about 1/2". Worked like a charm and was super cheap. I figured it would be a temporary solution but it worked so well I'm gunna rock it for as long as I can. Pics will be up on my build thread when I get around to it.

What I did to get more adjustment:
The piece that slides over the tranny arm.(circled in picture) I took it off and drilled a hole in it about a 1/2 inch back and put a bolt thru it.(so it would hook onto the tranny arm) If you guys get what I mean. It worked...my clutch cable isnt the greatest but I need to take it apart and lube the arm and everything. Ill do that when I take the engine out next time.

The problem with drilling out the bracket is that you get extreme flex in the cable bracket. Have someone sink the clutch and then look at it.

subscribing... interested in the modified one Andreas pointed out, it's a simple concept and seems to have a history of working better than whats there right now...