Thread: 17 year old car. Anyone know YET why we need to get extra adjustment from the clutch?

This is my clutch cable. Look where it is broken.
Also why is it that I have to have my clutch cable extra tight to get it into gear? If I leave any slack in the cable to take pressure off the t/o bearing, it will not engage into gear.
Has anyone come to a conclusion on why we can't get these cars into gear when the spacer/reducer is not present? I am getting sick of the crunch coming out of the transmission when I put it into gear?

i would also like to know this. my OEM clutch cable that i had, needed the spacer i dunno y

Doesn't make sense to me either. I went as far as re-installing my original PP with no luck.

I also noticed that the return spring on the fork sucks balls, I feel like my T/O bearing does not get retracted all the way off the PP teeth. So I have a spring loaded wire wrapped around the clutch release arm tied to the radiator\frame area. Basically the clutch cable yanks the arm one way and this wire spring combo yanks the arm the other way when I get off the clutch.

Some days I just wish I had an auto SE-R.

its because with cables they stretch over time, plain as that, i dont know why people always go with the spacers, i mean it solves the problem temporarily but does not always fix it, here is what im going to do here soon:

Im gonna take the clutch cable bracket off, drill holes right at the end of the bracket for the bolts, that will give about an inch of play that you can use for adjustment, now here is the second plus of this, by moving the adjustment back farther in the cable you also move the common wear and snap point of the cable which is right where it necks down at a steep angle coming out of the firewall. This should make your cable last longer too, once you start feeling your cable get notchy when releasing or pressing adjust the clutch as necessary to move the worn area away from that point. And by having another set of holes in the bracket that will always leave you room for when you get a new cable you can put it back in the normal bolt holes and then as the cable stretches move it accordingly.

I dont know why some people break more cables than other, i daily drive my turbo sentra and it has an ACT Extreem PP with 6 puck sprung disk and its been in there now for 9 months and im still on my factory oem cable. It streched quite a bit after this clutch went in but has not broken yet, 9 months later, 14k miles later. so yeah i usually just adjust as necessary when the cable gets notchy, so far so good, i have 2 spare oem cables just in case the day comes. haha, i bought those at christmas last year, haha.

haha, i hope not, you would have way more problems with the auto tranny than just having to mess with a clutch cable on a manual trans, haha, plus good luck on finding a replacement if the auto breaks, lol, neways these are just slight setbacks, i mean if it really bothers people just take the time to convert it to hydraulic and all your problems will be fixed. Its really not that hard of a task either.

i definitly think there are a few variables to the problem

1. aftermarket clutches can cause the cable to stretch out
2. non nissan oem clutch cables can be subjected to quicker scretching
3. improper clutch cable adjustments can cause wear premature wear
4. natural clutch cablewear

those are just a few, i have a clutchmasters FX4OO clutch and it had caused my cable to stretch out over a 1500mile period..with norml non racing driving...the pedal was alays really stiff...its just some thing that go bad with high grade aftermarket parts oem parts just cant handle it

on the NX? is that after or before I lube the stuff for you?



also add, if the clutch arm is not lubed correctly the cable with stretch faster over time.

Jensen can back me up when I say, "lubing the clutch arm is REALLY important" ask him how my SER pedals feels!

lubing the cable itself is also very important.

Dudeman

I've never had a problem with mine. I bought a new cable when I first pulled my trans, lubed everything that needed to be lubed, and properly adjusted my cable. Pedal is beautifully soft, smooth, and clutch engages right down at the bottom.

I redrilled my bracket too. The problem with that is that the bracket under load bends. It does. I watched it so I had to think up another way to get adjustment. There is a reason why I am asking questions now as opposed to coming up with solutions. My parenting/husband time>car time.
I installed a new clutch and used transmission a few years ago and even with a new 2.0 cable, I needed adjustment. So the bracket is just the same as drilling