Originally Posted by
SkyShepherd 
Pretty White,
I had similar symptoms, hard cold start, dive bombing idle unless the accelerator was depressed, lasted for about the first minute to ninety seconds after startup. What fixed it was replacing the Air Regulator with a known good unit. The assembly works like this: There is a bi-metalic strip in there, which has a tab on the end which actuates a rotating shutter assembly. When it is cold, the shutter is opened about 1/8" or so, allowing bypass air to enter the intake, and thus accounting for the combination of cold engine/closed TB. As the engine runs during warmup, battery voltage is applied to the bi-metalic strip, heating it up and bending it and thus moving the aforementioned actuating tab that then closes the shutter gradually over the course of 60-90 seconds. After verifying the non-operation condition is not a simple electrical disconnection, operation of this assembly can be checked by removing it from the underside of the intake plenum, and looking through the air passages; you should see at least 1/8" of daylight through it when cold. If it is warm out (and as a double check), chuck it into the freezer for a bit to chill it out, and recheck; no daylight, no worky. It may need cleaning/adjustment. The other part of the diagnostic is after establishing that it is open, apply 12V to the leads to see if you can get it to close (again, takes about 60-90 seconds). If it closes off, you are in business.
It is a bear to get to (on the high port, anyway). Crappy job, but I believe this will resolve your issue.
Let us know how you fare with it!
Darrin
OK, I hate this forum and this car for forcing me to do things I don't want to do. But here goes....
1)The contact was green on Terminal A
2)With the ignition ON, the voltage jumps to 10.36V then goes to O after like 5 seconds. (Terminal A and Ground)
3)I adjusted the TPS. .46 closed, 4.26 WOT
4)Checked the Ohms on the ohms on Terminal B and it is 0.00 @20K on the ohms setting.
5)The Air Regulator is testing at 71.1 ohms at the 20K setting on the ohm meter.
How do these parameters look?
I had to clean out the regulator with MAF spray cleaner and use a small flathead screwdriver to get the bi-metal strip to open. I opened it a few times to get the spring to loosen up
I put 12V to it and it closed up just like it is supposed to.
Reinstalled everything and started it up, it stumbled but did not die. Then when it warmed up it raced to 1500 for a while. When I disconnected the TPS to adjust the idle it came back down, I DID NOT adjust the idle because it adjusted itself.
Here are the pics.
Bi-Metal strip open after cleaning.
Under the car:
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It means the Air Regulator is working and normal idle should return in 90 seconds after start (time it takes the Air Regulator to close). 
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