Thread: not lookin for massive amounts of NA power, but . . .

yep i had had it set to 17" degrees previously via a garage (cost me £25 quid! $50 USD!!) but wasnt sure where it was (actually looked like 16-17" when i checked it properly) so i got a timing light and went under the hood myself, i bumped it up to 18-19 as i say and you could notice the change in tone of the engine. for sure.

i am not technical at all, i have no tools, nowt but trust me this is EASY one, but do it yourself/get a timing gun because then you can adjust as and when you want.

my gains were larger because i know i was running a little bit rich (bad tps setting) which i adjusted down at the same time. Now accel in 4th feels more like it did previously in 3rd!

i do run premium gas though but its £""%£" expensive here; £1.019l for unleaded 95 and £1.099l for 97 optimax!

go nitrous perfect for dd's...just make sure you set it up right

timing i a good start, but will only get you se far. i do recomend camshafts.

if not wanting to go into all the technical aspect of that. then do all the boly ons you can

Okay my question with Cams, specifically S3R's - as i have a RR engine;

If i put S3R's in should i adjust down my timing 19"->15"? if so how much will the new cams really gain me, as 15-19" is like what, a proven 8whp? so say i had 130whp to begin with, adjust the timing down down to 122whp. plus cams, 10-15whp? will only give upto 7whp or so gain over the advanced timed standard cams?

thats whats put me off, oh yea and the $500+ asking price!

I know that you asked about RR cams, but what I'm going to share is my experience with JWT S3s and my B13. I got real power that you notice on the road in the mid range and high end. Somewhere around 4500 RPM the car would take off like a rocket and pull to red line.

But: 1) I only got this kind of result after adding a 2.5" exhaust, JWT ecu and dyno time to fine tune fuel pressure and timing. 2) Even the S3 grind gave me a rough idle that made low speed driving a little bit of a pain in the butt.

On balance, I personally would not buy the S3s again for my daily driver because of the drivability issue. I am instead focusing on ECU tuning and weight reduction.

But if I were to go with S3s, I would expect to have to invest in a Calum ECU, 2.5" exhaust, and some dyno time to do it right. If you do this, you will see real gains -- much more than you get from just advancing your timing.

yea if i went S3R i would go Calum ECU for sure.

ATM i have SSAC Header, 2.25" SS Cat Back, Apexi Cone, Nismo Rad Cap and Oil Billet, fully Synthetic oils, 19" timing, solid (made by me) front and back motor mounts (flexane60).

i get a few vibes through the car but i can live with it because i love the noise it makes when i open her up! Cams would probably be the last mod ill make, or maybe some UD pulleys but not sure...

Interesting

I thought the S4's were pretty bad with idle and got their power in the high end, and the S3's had more lower end.

Kinda sucks that RR's have a limited cam choice

You are right, the S4s will hold the WHP level until red line. The S3s fade above 6500 RPM, but not like the OEM cams. My S3 set up peaked WHP at about 6700 RPM and produced 12 WHP more than my OEM cams (with bolt ons) at 7200 RPM.

So the S4's are a better choice

That depends on what you are looking for. The S4s are probably the most popular cam in the SR20 community. I preferred the S3s because the idle is more civiized and the mid-range, where the engine spends most of it's time on the street, is stonger with the S3s.