Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Fidanza Flywheels

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 31-40 of 52
2008-07-18 01:16:30
#31
Originally Posted by Vadim
I just talked to someone at Fidanza and here is the info straight from the man

Part: 143621 NIS 19
Teeth: 108
Ring: Nissan OEM Ring
Car: All SR20DE
Failsafe flywheel to go with if your not sure which one you need.

Part: 143201 NIS 11
Teeth: 109
Ring: Generic Ring
Car: OBDI - No Crank Sensor
143201 NIS 11 So that one won't throw a code on a B13?
2008-07-18 01:32:23
#32
No it won't. I don't think either one will throw a code on a b13. I think it's an obd2 thing.
2008-07-18 13:03:09
#33
Originally Posted by Tommy
No it won't. I don't think either one will throw a code on a b13. I think it's an obd2 thing.


^Correct
2008-07-18 13:03:26
#34
Originally Posted by Tommy
I've heard that XTD "9lb" flywheel is not 8.5 or 9lbs. Its 10.5lbs. Probably better suited for a boosted motor. Check it out....

http://www.sr20-forum.com/showthread.php?t=3651&highlight=Flywheel


Thats what I remember seeing! Thanks for the link

Originally Posted by kneesmO
143201 NIS 11 So that one won't throw a code on a B13?


Both will work on a B13 and no CEL's

Originally Posted by Tommy
No it won't. I don't think either one will throw a code on a b13. I think it's an obd2 thing.


That is correct, B13's (OBDI) are not CEL prone like the B14's (OBDII)
2008-07-18 22:41:45
#35
So which one would be better for a VE? They both look the same and they both weigh the same?
2008-07-19 02:41:49
#36
143201 NIS 11 will do for a OBDI VE.

Now if you put a OBDII ECU then the other one.
2008-07-19 05:36:21
#37
Would that 8.5LB Flywheel be too light for a VE?

What are the pro's and (if there are any) con's of having such a light flywheel?
2008-07-19 07:40:54
#38
Cons:
Rougher idle.
Typically higher clutch engagement rpm.
Quicker heat soak of flywheel.
fin
2008-07-19 08:17:44
#39
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Cons:
Rougher idle.
Typically higher clutch engagement rpm.
Quicker heat soak of flywheel.
fin


First off how does heat soak affect a flywheel?

!!! This might answer a problem I've been having with my new swap. VE and a sprung 6puck clutch with a 9# flywheel. Clutch makes a whining/buzzing sound sometimes when engaging at lower rpms, (especially in reverse) when SLOWLY releasing the clutch, and when downshifting if the engine isn't revmatched. Would the stock flywheel get rid of this? Also still have the rear oem engine mount inplace (soon to be a prothane) will that help? At really low rpms the clutch will seen to vibrate/bounce a little.
2008-07-19 14:18:02
#40
Originally Posted by Wilser93
First off how does heat soak affect a flywheel?
The clutch and flywheel combination is just like a brake rotor and pad combination. If you overwork the clutch the flywheel gets heat soaked. This happens quicker with a flywheel with less mass. You could loose all grip due to heat soak, then have it return after allowing things to cool.

Originally Posted by Wilser93
VE and a sprung 6puck clutch with a 9# flywheel. Clutch makes a whining/buzzing sound sometimes when engaging at lower rpms, (especially in reverse) when SLOWLY releasing the clutch, and when downshifting if the engine isn't revmatched.
Just like high performance brake pads, high performance (high grip, high temp) clutch material is known to make squealing, chirping noises while engaging.

Originally Posted by Wilser93
Would the stock flywheel get rid of this?
Nope, it's your clutch material that's the culprit.

Originally Posted by Wilser93
Also still have the rear oem engine mount inplace (soon to be a prothane) will that help?
Doubt it.

Originally Posted by Wilser93
At really low rpms the clutch will seen to vibrate/bounce a little.
If this is happening while engaging, it is known as clutch "chatter" and is pretty common with "puck" clutches. it is a combination of the grippy clutch material along with the non-full-face design that causes this chatter. The clutch faces grab and release then deflect from the flywheel to the pressure plate, then grab and release from the pressure plate and deflect to the flywheel. This happens over and over again causing the chattering noise. Most 6, 4 and 3 puck clutches will do this, but most don't have to. It's a skill to be sure, but they can be operated without chatter. Practice my friend.

If it's happening while you're completely engaged, it's a different story. The springs on the sprung clutch are stiffer than stock and have a different resonance. They just happen to compress and decompress with the power strokes of the engine. This can be made worse by a lighter flywheel, as the pulses between power strokes are even more pronounced. You just have to live with this, or get an unsprung clutch.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top