Thread: Good circumstances but what path to take to rid nervousness from a sr20 while having another running one that isn't nervous.

Info linked in post #7 above.

I see. I did read it the first time but for real I replaced AAC, FICD and AICV and still no raise in engine speed when I turn my steering wheel? I'm sure the ecu sees it because Datascan shows it and it is no big deal, I believe I can do without but would there be something worth to check?

I think I understand the AICV at the underside is a fixed thing since it opens and closes by temparature and the AAC and FICD both are parts the ecu can steer but I have no clue what a closed and a open AAC would do, just as a open or closed FICD?

This is a long read. You might consider to skip to just after the video.

Yesterday I changed my MAF for a unknown one and while this old MAF checked out to be best with Datascan (a simple voltage check with no running engine), I couldn't imagine it would help. From the other MAF's I selected the one with the next lowest voltage and the difference in voltage is very, very small.

But gues what, while I'm not fully sure because the stalling is intermittent and only with cold starts, this looked like it went away at times but it didn't and now with this other MAF the A/F base is 100, the lambda only goes lean when I rev te engine and the stalling is not back yet. Also the darting went from almost impossible to evade by clever pedalling and clutching to very, very annoying so I was a bit dissapointed and that is an understatement.

Today I got around to swap the fuel rail from rust-egg to my Nx. I'm not sure why I was a bit reluctant to this, it ain't hard and I did the spray test you mentioned Ben. I couldn't imagine my problem would be solved and it isn't but it went to the background for about 50 to 60 percent. This fuel rail from rust-egg has a fpr screw that had been molested before and this rail I will take to my work to see if with some help and some cleverness I hope a collegue comes up with, to make it loose. Or else I will drill that little bastard.

For the injectors, sure both rails have 370 cc injectors but they are not the same by colour and those four little holes also don't look the same to me. So I decided to stick with all the injectors which I believe is a good idea since those have the same history. I'm not sure if I'll be able to find out which fpr is best by trial and error but I will investigate this. I also learned that viewing youtube movies from car mechanics can be very helpful and that if you click on something that takes long just skip it or click something else, no time to waste.

I've noticed that for A/F base there is very little to read on the internet and that my old MAF that I still think made my engine stall, showed A/F base varying from 95 to 105 and this MAF is at 100 somehow but my car is smoking bad with this MAF so it mitigated my stalling and time will tell if I'm correct but it is worn also. Still two MAF's to go. The MAF on rust-egg has a little part number difference and if memory serves well a MAF from a non lambda lowport SR20 and a MAF from a lowport SR20 with lambda have three and four wires or the other way around. I will need to check this because rust-egg isn't darty.

So I'm a little optimistic since the darting became worse by another MAF but went to the background by swapping a whole fuel rail. I ohm tested the injectors and they are between 11.5 and 12.5 ohms. I also spray pattern tested the suspected fuel rail and while I never saw this before, all four where the same. On the other hand those injectors seem not to be really defective but the darting shows somewhere between 1000 and 1500 rpm and I can't tell if a spray pattern test should show something or not.

For the MAF by the way, now I can hear the humming sound of the front tyres and those are Pirelli's. But if Pirelli calls something 'Cinturato' I read crap tyre. But those tyres are good second hands so I couldn't be picky but I would not recommend them since I believe a B brand tyre will perform similar or better. However, back again to the drawing board, asking a question on Meta Mechanics Stack exchange or how they call it, gives fast replies by knowledgable people but it are generic answers, finding someone who has specific SR20 knowledge is hard overthere.

I'm not sure if being stuck in open loop went away but testing that is better to do with a home to work drive and for the dartyness it is still there and I believe is something else, but the engine hangs up too quickly at times with throttle closed and there is not much left to test.

The only explanation I have almost every if not all sensors and stuff on my engine is and was in bad shape besides aftermarket parts that just don't work well enough, that the French owner fueld it with leaded petrol a few times. I've bought this car with one year of MOT but the catalyzer showed a hole.

https://fotobakje.nl/tmp/VIDEO0121.mp4 (I wan't able to use VIDEO tags successfully)
Here is a movie of the idling, I like it but it isn't how it should be. If someone would speculate what is wrong I really would like to hear!

So the darting went to the background by fuel rail swapping, the other worn MAF made the stalling go away (I think) and ther is not much left to check.

I will do some homework and rewrite my initial question!

Yah, they only work to embed YouTube videos right now.

Oh okay. I'll youtube it next time.

I do have another question. Are you aware of known baddies like leaking air by a 27 year old Sr20, for example a small hole near the TPS?

I'm about to get rid of rust-egg but I will read FSM one more time to learn what is possible given the circumstances (not much daylight, only in weekends) and my question about a intake leak I posted because someone knowledgable told me in a generic Nissan knowledge way there might be a leak.

So I think I was being smart to look on the internet for DIY leak finding and one seemingly great tip told about brake cleaner in the intake and when engine stalls there is a leak somewhere. So I tested this and yes, it stalled. My other Nissan powered car with a similar darting engine but not as much, yes it stalled. But I wasn't sure this tip I found is a working one or not. So I tested with rust-nx and yes, it stalled

I find it hard to believe I have three Nissans with age though that have a leak and only one of them refuses to dart at all, no matter how bad I try to drive it. Learning this way that a darting engine is something that comes with age but doesn't have to be so, I'm still after finding the cause.

But with changing iginition, fuel and sensor parts from rust-nx and that I know I swapped everything or maybe not, the time I still have to let rust-egg sitting on the road, is ending.

Here is youtube, it is my Nx. I hope I get some replies about the leak finding and I also have a piece of text I would like you to read. It is what I'm being told but the subject is something I never read about before and the internet is nog giving much hits on a leaking Sr20. And I'm not sure yet it leaks or not but I think it is a probabillity after so much swapping.


By replaying my video it is a little hard to tell it stalled or not but it did. Also I again failed to use a VIDEO tag correctly I am afraid. Nissan 100Nx Sr20DE air leak test, working or not? And not on subject, Sr20's without airfilters sound awesome!


If someone would like to reply on the quoted text, please do!

Vacuum leak! That is what it sounds like. Might be a good time to start replacing vacuum lines. I'm in the process of doing this too...but i feel like i need to pull the intake for ease of access.

I'm all ears if you would try to explain in text what sounds like a vacuum leak to you?

I just think it might be hard to follow for me but please try.

I replaced all vacuum lines that could be replaced by Gates rubber tubes. Gates sounds American to me but the company is a European one. It's oem products are good or better and there rubber tubes are a treat. But I replaced like PCV and the only tubes I didn't replace is fpr but it looks good and those knock can tubes because I believed at the time those thick tubes are not very hard and the clamping is sufficient, but I of course can put some new tubes there to make things sure.

However, I am not aware of vacuum tubing near the throttle valve nor on the underside or other not so visible places.

If someone would like to explain to me what tubing I might have missed, I would like to hear because that will be fixed comming weekend and if there is a way to find vacuum tubing with FSM, please enlighten me, my egg should be running like new. I'm sure the new of the nineties is like nowadays new, without the very obviously programmed throttle lag, for example Audi A6, S line, gawd, just one out of many that responded, still lagging but very very close. My egg is a different street then a well maintained Z3 but man, I want to make it tite, really. Please help, my highway driving after swappiness with rust-nx is that good, eager to fix my crap. I also read first Ben Fenner reply, very good! I get it. And Dala, good! And Kyle, what is your fuel economy? Mine is 35.3, open loop gone, cold start stalling gone. Happy already, noticed all bullcrap starting from the day 1 bought my Nx is still there.

I am getting a constant 24.xx MPG in mixed driving in my new-to-me 1996 G20. I got much better in my first G20 (31-35 MPG). Now that it became colder, I know my thermostat needs changed. I don't think that will solve all the problems, but that is needed for sure. It also is possible my intake tube is causing a leak. I know the tube is cracked but not fully split.

I replied to your PM, there is no notification. You check by clicking the top left corner of the forum "Private Messages" and you can see my reply.