Thread: Deleting charcoal canister properly

Soo, when installing my 6speed gearbox, the charcoal canister came in the way of the shifter mechanism. My first plan of attack was to relocate it, but the plastic broke during removal. After two and a half decades, it is time for something new then.

I need to do something with the fuel vent hose that is now exposed. I know that most people just chuck it somewhere remotely and let it vent.

I am concerned about water moisture getting into the vent, and collecting into the E85 fuel that is almost always in the tank. So I need to create some sort of one way valve, and maybe a filter.

Has someone else simplified their tank vent? Would a PCV valve+filter be enough?

yeah, that should work. purpose of evap canister is to vent fuel vapor to engine (or in your case it will be the atmosphere). so hook up the line so that air can't enter your evap 'filter'.


I would add that be careful of inspections, I don't know how the system works over in Finland but you may fail if they notice the missing canister/evap system. Also you may have the smell of gas lingering around your car often.

I've put in a bolt to plug the vent canister line before, but I found that on very hot days the tank would get over-pressured and you could hear the fuel pump struggling. Opening up the gas lid would help, after that I just kept the line open until I rewired it back to the intake manifold to work properly again.

Vadim, what you are saying is that you deleted the canister, and extended the line going to the tank so that it ran to the intake manifold? It sounds like this basically amounted to just putting a coupler between those two lines to replace the canister?

Do not ever run a line straight from the tank to the manifold as you can create enough of a vacuum that you can suck the tank "flat" and draw in liquid fuel and have horrible fuel economy or high idle/AFR issues. It is supposed to be ported vacuum source if you are bypassing the connections on the canister. If you are boosted you need to install a check valve to keep from pressurizing the tank with boost and damaging tank related parts.

No sir, far from it. 97+ cars have the charcoal canister in the back by the gas tank. Then they have a hard line running to the engine bay where there is a Evap canister valve (often referred to as EGR valve).

For a while I removed the EGR Valve and just stuck a bolt in it because I smelled fuel vapors from it while car would be sitting. This caused my tank to over pressure, thus for a while longer I just kept it open again. Until finally I got an ECU that let me retune the EGR valve function (NismoTronic), then I hooked it up to the EGR Valve, one way check valve (to keep boost out) and hooked it up to the intake manifold.

When ECU turns on the EGR valve my AFR's blip way down, from 15's to 13's. This is why it's important to only use it when in closed loop and when not under boost, since you might be tuning it to be rich, but if the charcoal canister ever goes empty(which it does after a while especially on hwy trips) it will lean out.