Thread: Battery kill switch removal help....?

Ebay seems to have a few of the pass-through ones I like: Car Audio Power Distribution Block | eBay

And whatever the fuck NewEgg Flash is (seems to be affiliated with the baller New Egg web site) has this perfect unit: Five Star Inc SKPD-15 0/2 Gauge To 8 X 8 Gauge Power/Ground Distribution Block Car Audio Part ? NeweggFlash.com
Oh wait, it looks like it's a sale that's ended?

Maybe Ebay is your best bet with all of these options:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APS-0-2-GAUGE-TO-8-X-8-GAUGE-POWER-GROUND-DISTRIBUTION-BLOCK-CAR-AUDIO-SKPD-15N-/201046140357
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-2-Gauge-In-To-8-x-8-Ga-Out-Power-Ground-Distribution-Block-Gold-12V-Car-Audio-/172121473246
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APS-0-2-GAUGE-TO-8-X-8-GAUGE-POWER-GROUND-DISTRIBUTION-BLOCK-CAR-AUDIO-SKPD-15-/200913454274
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-2-GAUGE-TO-8-X-8-GAUGE-POWER-GROUND-DISTRIBUTION-BLOCK-CAR-AUDIO-PART-SKPD-15G-/111141446132


That's enough searching for me now. I'm headed to the grocery store.

Go to walmart, check out their car audio section. They have distribution blocks and 100+ amp fuses if you want to add a fuse. Auto parts stores usually have very little in the ways of car audio...

Awesome. I'm going to go check out their stuff now. If not, I'll go with one of Ben's links. Thanks so much.

Walmart has like 100:

fuse distribution block - Walmart.com

but none at the stores except for some little stereo amp one.

I'll agree with that, for some reason I was thinking the starter was coming off the fuse block, but this makes sense, and explains the no start issue.


I have absolutely nothing against the distribution block ideas being tossed around, but to me it seems unnecessary unless you plan on doing more electrical work and need a place to tap into for more power. Or it you just want it looking pretty. Bolting those three wires together then insulating will get the job done.

The only trick with the distribution blocks will be to make sure you get something you can get a large enough screw into for those connectors you are dealing with, this is your main power feed with big thick cables. Ideally this block will be secured to the chassis somewhere (not left hanging loose) and so you now have to figure out your cable routing and make sure you have enough slack to route these nicely without splicing in additional cable length, running new cables, etc, to make it all pretty. If you're going to end up with a distribution block not being secured, you may as well have just put a bolt through them and called it a day.

Putting a breaker in the trunk off the battery seems to be a good idea like Ben mentioned. If anything shorts up front, you do want something that will protect the battery from melting your wiring.

As I understood it, 2 wires were power and one was ground, correct? So if you connected them all together...and made sparks (!) you may have fried the starter solenoid.

Edit...I see Morgan's post now...but you still made sparks so it's possible you "let the factory smoke out" and fried the solenoid.

Some small sparks are normal as the battery connection is first made, like when you go to jump start a car and you get that first spark as you are clamping the cable on. That's how I read that.

If the spark was more of the 'oh, pretty, a spark!', then you're ok. It it was more of the 'lightning lept a 3" gap as I got the cable near the battery' type of spark, then something is definitely wrong...

The starter didn't start because I *thought* the 3rd wire was a ground but it actually *IS* the power wire to the starter. All 3 wires in the original post are power wires.

Amongst @BenFenner 's suggestions, I ordered a distribution block from Amazon, this one. Only problem is I have to wait a few days:

http://www.amazon.com/XScorpion-Gauge-Plated-Finish-Distribution/dp/B0058RC2YM

I'm confident this is the solution, and per Jimbo's post I will secure it to the chassis

your welcome

Yes, thank you very much. I do really appreciate it.