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Thread: Battery kill switch removal help....?

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Posts: 11-20 of 68
2016-03-12 14:46:54
What's the battery voltage at now? Maybe it is low and not able to crank the starter? Make sure those red wires are firmly joined, starting takes a lot of power from the battery, a poor connection won't have enough juice flowing.
2016-03-12 15:00:41

cause that third wire is power to starter

You have your main power coming from the battery in the back into the switch.

Then you will have your power to fuse box and power to starter coming out of it.

The biggest wire with wire loom around it is from your starter harness.

Putting a bolt and nut through them is garbage get a distribution block and make sure there is a fuse inline from the battery to block since you have essentially eliminated that by removing the switch

Why wouldnt you just follow the wires and see where they actually go?
Last edited by morgans432 on 2016-03-12 at 15-11-07.
2016-03-12 16:36:48
Yeah, when I put the 3 of them together the battery sparks when I go to reconnect it.

Any of these distribution blocks recommended?

Last edited by Storm88000 on 2016-03-12 at 17-12-13.
2016-03-12 18:33:53
This thread is hilarious.
Thankfully morgans got here and sorted things out. I wrote this reply before reading his reply, so I'll just leave it here.

Ghetto solution:
Connect all 3 of those wires together with a bolt and wrap them up with electrical insulation like a motherfucker to protect them from grounding out.

If you want a better solution, Chris mentioned running an entirely new power cable. Or you could go the distribution block route like I did.

Let me describe what you have so it will make sense if you'd like.

The smaller wire with the red connector and OEM loom - This routes to the fuse box and gives everything inside the cabin power. It has a built-in fuse (inside the red plug thing). This needs power from the battery.
The thick black wire with OEM plastic loom - This routes directly to the starter motor. This needs power from the battery.
The thick red cable - This thing routes back to the positive terminal of the battery. This brings power to the engine bay. This should provide power to the two wires mentioned above.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-03-12 at 18-38-03.
2016-03-12 19:39:04
Thank Ben, got it. But what would running a new power cable do?
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2016-03-12 at 19-40-10.
2016-03-12 20:33:35
Running a new power cable would not do much I guess. You could avoid having that big junction? You'd still have to find out a way to tie in the smaller wire (with the red power fuse built in) but I guess it's an option.
The distribution block is probably your best bet. I would get a pass-through distribution block like this one (with at least two 2-gauge provisions):

Then if you want to go the extra mile, put a new circuit breaker in the trunk by the battery. Having the breaker or fuse in the engine bay defeats the purpose if you ask me.

Personally, I just have the distribution block and no fuse/breaker. I don't even have the OEM power-fuse either.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-03-12 at 20-36-15.
2016-03-12 20:52:00
Thanks dude. Do you have a link to that? I've been all over town today at auto stores no one has anything except cheap cut off switches
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2016-03-12 at 20-53-04.
2016-03-12 22:09:11
There are tons of similar things on Amazon; any recommendations

Amazon.com: automotive battery distribution block
2016-03-12 22:56:01
What about this?

150 Amp High Amperage Circuit Breaker - Wiring Products

If you guys think that works I'll just get that. The whole reason I removed the original one in the first place was because the toggle switch itself broke so when it killed the power I couldn't turn it off
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2016-03-12 at 23-33-54.
2016-03-12 23:44:39
You could replace it with another circuit breaker, but I have never understood how or why people get away with such low AMP rating breakers. That's a 150 AMP unit you've linked. Yet your battery is likely rated at 600+ Cold Cranking AMPs and possibly up to 800 Warm Cranking AMPs which means it can supply the starter motor with that many AMPs if needed. You'll need something that lets the starter draw a lot of power, but still trips if the battery shorts out. I would imagine something like 300 AMPs for the breaker is a minimum... But honestly I've never dealt with a breaker on a car so I wouldn't really know.

As for the distribution block, you could try Parts Express but if you want to stick with Amazon this one is sort of close to what you want: http://www.amazon.com/Jex-Electronics-Stereo-Splitter-Distribution/dp/B01AKDHWE8/

And if you browse their store they have tons of breakers and distribution blocks to choose from. I'll continue searching for one like in the picture I gave you. That image came from some shitty Chinese retail website.

Edit: Getting closer... http://www.amazon.com/XScorpion-Gauge-Plated-Finish-Distribution/dp/B0058RC2YM

And this one looks like it would get the job done just fine, but might be a little overkill: http://www.amazon.com/Tsunami-FDB802-MANL-Power-Distribution-Block/dp/B008UXYKF0
Last edited by BenFenner on 2016-03-12 at 23-57-07.
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