Thread: Koyo Review. Newer V-series vs older R-Series (racer/street input please)

For this test to be valid, you would want the sensor on the outlet side of the radiators, where the thermostat is

roger that happynole. So this way we can see how much it coolsing temps between the (2). I will be putting it on that side (still trying to decide how to mount it. I finally got all (mostly) the parts needed.


1.) NX Auto radiator I believe. I won't know until I pull it out to try to find a part number. (Wish I had a manual for the car). I will also be using ONLY Nissan's radiator coolant during this test. ALso with distill water, again I will make sure I use the same brands so everything is identical expect the radiators. If I get time, I will be going the install this weekend.


2.) new koyo v-series radiator



ALL parts include: oem nx auto radiator, koyo v-series, innovated temp gauge, nissan coolant, stock termo stat (might order one from Nissan soon or get a cheapy autozone one), also be using HPS silicone hoses (if no cutting involve for temp sensor).

SIDE NOTE*** 1.) I also want a tool to measure the cfm. Does anyone have a suggest (or experience) on this subject, one that is good but not to much $$$$$?
2.) Also still determining were to locate the temp sensor. Thinking only real way to go about it is put it inline on the cooling size hose (aka will have to get that adaptor piece). I will use the rubber hoses at that point on that side and not HPS Silicone Hose. Also any ideas of how to mount the sensor by thermostat area, ideas?

Optimally you would want 2 sensors to see the temp delta of inlet and outlet.... but that is asking a bit much

in less someone wants to donate one (maybe a used one) haha. But I personally don't feel like spending another 140 on another temp gauge when I won't need it afterwards. (I'm a innovate whore lol)

They do have a point about the thicker radiator preventing the engine from heating up properly when daily driven in cooler weather. I've solved that with a higher temp thermostat and different ECU tuning. However, if what they say is true, this new radiator could be great. I agree it does sound more like marketing than engineering, but maybe not. The way they got the older, thicker radiator to cool better with revision 2 (the one we all bought) was to make the fin density lower which allowed more air flow through the radiator. Which shows that the volume of water the core holds wasn't necessarily the limiting factor to the cooling.

I find it hard to believe this newer, thinner radiator would cool as well as the old one since they essentially admit that it warms faster, but the old one was only ever needed by serious racers who spent over 40 minutes on the track at a time in the dead of summer with possibly turbocharged engines. The likelihood of most of us needing that much cooling is not high. I would assume most of us could get away with less cooling. And truthfully if people just spent a bit more time on ducting the radiator all of our overheating issues would go away I'm sure. Plug all holes around the radiator, get the top, bottom, and sides all directing air into the radiator, and make sure you have that ducting extend well beyond the radiator on the bottom (continue that splitter into and under-tray) and top to prevent reversion and turbulence behind the radiator.

I plan to do the ducting for the radiator along with in the future ducting a oil cooler in one side of the fenders (passenger) while the drivers side is ducting for A2W heat exchanger.

I want to get all the smaller possible trouble issue stuff out of the way that may effect the big trouble issue stuff (example- turbo install).Plus less work load needed for that install. lol

I might just get a cheapy autometer gauge for a second test so I can get reading from both temp sides. (use cheapy autometer for thermostat side & innovate on upper hose side.)


@zeneffect @BenFenner I really hope it's not a marketing scheme. Either way, I needed something (when I go turbo) better then the one that's on there now.
But I'm looking at the cooling thing from a different angle, that the Thinner MIGHT not be as good itself BUT been able to maintain the STOCK fans vs slim fans will be the difference in this case and the overall ending of the combinations.

thicker radiator+ slim fans (lower cfm regards of brand s) =______while, thinner radiator + stock fans (higher cfm)=__________ That's also WHY I want to test the CFM also so we can finally get some kind of stock cfm to reference since that theory has never been shared/tested on here (from my searching).

FWIW: On our N/A track cars the 91 NX2000 and the 94 Sentra we do not even have radiator fans. During our trip to WCC 2015 we had zero overheating issues, more so quit the opposite as the cars were taking several laps to get up to operating temp.

On the flip side, I took out the turbo 97 Sentra on the track and it was getting hot REAL FAST.



The 91 NX has a KOYO R1977 with no fans.

The 94 SE-R has an over sized radiator in it with no fans.

The 97 Sentra has a KOYO R1977 with a dual FAL setup, NISMO thermostat and ported cooling passages in the cylinder head. Most days it run around 175-180 deg. but on the track on a hot day, it gets real hot real fast.

Thanks for sharing the info @LAM-PARK... Is the NX & SE-R turbo'd too? or just the 97 Sentra (I'm assuming it's a 2.0 se-l?)

Currently...

the NX has a n/a SR20DE that is being retired for a SR20VE 1N5
the SER has a n/a SR20VE 8H6 (20V) that is being retired for a very high compression n/a setup with a 54C block and a VE head.
the 97 Sentra GLE has a SR22DE(t) 94Y setup on 7-8 psi. Click on any of the links for more details.

Radiator fans are meaningless above ~25 miles per hour. You're better off without them above that speed.