Thread: Syn.Oil Pennzoil "ULTRA platinum" 10w-30 5qt reviews.

Okay,

So back in the early part of 2015 I bought a nx with a motor with a lot of Sludge. (I will include pictures later as I just found my photo bucket info again lol). I decided I wanted to use the "ULTRA platinum" but accidentally got the "platinum PURE" by accident due to not really paying attention to label/color. Now I go back to look for the ULTRA in 10w-30 and it seems to be a rare thing, specially in 5qts vs 1qts. I usually by it from walmart as they usually have the BEST prices on syn. 5qt jugs. Usually like a 10-15 difference then the auto stores.

Now I really wanted to try this as it had good reviews (aka almost a year ago) for higher detergent/lub numbers vs mobil 1 extended performance (i've always have used on ALL my nissans/infinitis). I was wondering if anyone has tried it on there cars and please post real reviews of actually using it if I'm about to go through all the troubles to just find what I need haha. Thanks guys.


side not I have used pure on the motor now and just barely getting to the 4 jug that I bought. (wish i could put more miles on it sooner so it get clean faster). I also change it out every 800-1000 miles right now.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

read it. then compare that list with uoa and voa results (blackstone testing) to determine which lube would work best for your needs.

"34. 5W30 Pennzoil “Ultra” Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from pure natural gas, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved = 99,039 psi
This oil was introduced in 2014, and comes in a dark gray bottle with a blue vertical stripe on the label.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the OUTSTANDING Wear Protection Category.

However, I went on to also test this oil late in 2015, at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. But, this oil had only an extremely small 2.7% drop in capability, the smallest drop I have seen. And at that reduced value down to 96,363 psi, this much hotter and thinner oil was still in the OUTSTANDING Wear Protection Category."

ty. Im gonna give it a try. Might switch over my g35 to pennzoil with the prolong. Thank man. pictures will come soon for the sludge of the motor. Emails lagging

id be looking at Valvoline max life as its cheap as shit and will clean up the motor a bit and will save on cost. a premium oil like ultra platinum is a waste of money imo with a motor that sludged.

I have more pictures of the sludge but email downloading the pictures is laggy I'll post more but that picture was from when I first remove valve cover off in end of May. This was before i started to do ANYTHING to the motor. I also have an oil change up date picture from end of August and soon to be Another update/s (I'll start a individual thread for my car).


Thanks for the Advice. You've been helpful since I've come back to the sr world lol

Did you run any sort of motor flush through there to clean that up? On my cars, usually every few years I will run a bottle of Gunk Motor Flush (used to use a similar product from STP years back, but they stopped making it, there are a few other similar products out there) through the engine before changing the oil, this helps get rid of a lot of the varnish and sludge build up.

I've never actually had sludge on any of my own cars, I do it mainly to keep the varnish at bay, but like to do this when I pick up a used car, because, you never know what's down in there, and an oil change is only going to go so far once you have that sort of buildup.

To be honest @jimbo_se-r I've been nervous and unsure to do it. I do though, beat the hell out of the motor to make sure if it'll go, it'll go then lol. I thought I was getting a deal on the nx but learned a HARD lesson of losing $$$ in long run for sure. lol But I just miss having an nx. I drive this car Once a week to work. So I put basically approx 200-300 miles a month. Mostly freeway but I do (i like said) get on it every single time. The suspension is probably the worse thing on this car. A lot of ghettoo stuff done to it that has to be reverse.

I usually use Mobil 1 5w-30 & 10w-30 EP for all my Nissans/Infinitis I've owned. They always managed to stay clean. (Nothing added to those by the way). But this sludge is a whole knew game for me. I've read all related sr20 clunk cleaning stuff and a lot have seem to GIVE up or move on to a new motor on the outcome. (aka ve). I wanna stay DE for a while (I have faith as my previous nx had 200k on it when I turbo it and I regret letting that nx go as it was perfect and didn't have the commonly know issues with nx's).

What did you use or have in Mind? I read something about Andreas Mikos telling vadim but I felt most of that conversation of details took place in pm or text? I've read a lot of other nissan related sludge too. I almost bit on autorx stuff but hadn't got there in the oil changes yet (aka cheap conv oil. jugs.... I had pre bought 3-4 jugs of syn. stuff)

I have had best success cleaning a sludged up engine the good ol natural way of consistent OCI (oil change intervals) and using old dinosaur oil.

When I first got my B14, the engine was a little gross inside. That was at 109k miles. I am just short of a quarter of a million miles and it looks cleaner in there than it did when I first bought it. I used dinosaur oil for the first six years, before switching to a semi-synthetic blend. A consistent OCI and a quality oil filter change will clean the engine, naturally. (along with the daily redline shift, of course, clean your valves folks!)

With that much sludge, it will take more than a few oil changes to clean out, and that's going to be a lot of extra wear on the engine.

It isn't clear how many miles or oil changes you have on the car since that sludge pic. I'd be curious what it looks like now if you pull the valve cover.

If it still looks bad, pick up a bottle of motor flush from your local auto parts store, check the instructions and run it for the minimum recommended time off you want to be cautious. Pull the VC again and have a look inside. You can either run it a bit longer, or drain and put fresh oil in, and repeat with the next change. I've done this in several motors, and have had no problems with oil leaks as a result.

Just for fun, you may also want to replace your filter half way between oil changes if you are fighting sludge, that way anything that has broken free and is in the filter gets tossed, and you can get a fresh filter helping to trap more particles before the next oil change. She. I was running full synthetic in my original '91, I was doing oil changes at 10k miles, and throwing a filter on at 3k, 6k, then at 10k with new oil. Engine looked great inside well past 200k miles.