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Thread: '94 B13 Cranks but won't Start!

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2015-11-29 22:42:18
'94 B13 Cranks but won't Start!
Let me begin by saying I am stumped with this issue. I have owned this car forever and have always been able to work out the quirks until now...

Anyways, the car is a 1994 4-door B13 5spd with a DE+T swap. The car always ran great. As a result of getting older I got a new car and ended up parking this one. I went out to start it a few weeks ago and it fired right up. I let it idle and warm up, no issues whatsoever. I noticed I had left the ECU sitting in the passenger side floor board, so while the car was running I moved the ECU back under the dash. While doing so the car immediately died and would not start back up.

I unhooked the ECU to take a closer look and noticed that a few wires were had broken as a result of age. I had a spare harness sitting around so I re-pinned in new wires and soldered everything back together. Still won't start... I have completely gone through all of the wiring at the ECU and everything looks good now.

I then looked at the ECU and noticed that some of the pins had corroded and one had broken off into the blue wire harness connector. I was able to get the broken pin out and hooked up an ECU from my brothers P10 G20 automatic. Still, no start. It cranks and cranks.

At this point I was really getting mad at the whole situation. In a desperate attempt I removed the car alarm system. Not sure if that matters or not but it still won't start...

All of the fuses are good and all spark plugs are getting spark The fuel pump kicks on prior to cranking and the rail is pressurized. I even added fuel to the tank wondering if the gas was low.. Still no start.

So at this point I am completely stumped and do not know how to proceed. I am need some help from the SR20 gods! Anyone have any ideas? Would the P10 G20 automatic ECU be causing me troubles? My ECU is #64. The P10 G20 ECU is #30. The ECU is not throwing any codes either.
Last edited by philipn126 on 2015-11-29 at 22-44-18.
2015-12-05 22:35:19
After digging around on it today I have found that the injectors are not getting battery voltage. There is continuity and battery voltage at the ECCS relay and ecu. There must be a disconnect between the ECCS relay (white wire) and the power wires for the injectors (white wires). Anyone dealt with this before?
2015-12-08 02:12:07
BUMP.. I'm having this exact issue. If I move my ecu around a bit, the power to the injectors comes and goes but everything by the ecu looks fine and never been touched. I'm stumped
2015-12-08 18:18:36
The injectors always have battery voltage applied when the ignition is turned on. There is a fuse in the interior labeled "INJ". The Ecu actually ground the injectors. Its easier on the ECU to sink current than to supply it. This is becoming more of a problem it seems with the Nissans, I've have this happen 3 times over the past few years myself.
2015-12-09 00:58:29
That's great info. I will double check that fuse and check the grounds too. I need to get this thing moving!
2015-12-20 13:25:02
Problem solved. I traced power from the eccs relay, to the ecu, to the fuse panel, to the SMJ connector, to the battery - perfect continuity. That backed up my hypothesis that there was a break in the white power wire between the eccs relay and the injectors. I was able to pull back the harness loom and found the break. It had orrured right at the firewall where the single white power wire transitions into 4 individual power wires (one for each injector). I fixed that connection and the car fired right up. Time to sell this bad boy.
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