Thread: Noob AC, cv boots, oil pan parts questions.

I need a new AC compressor and found a matching AC compressor on Rock Auto.

Old: Yuck.


New: DKV14D


Identical unit, so the metal connectors on the hoses mate up perfectly.


It *appears* I also need to replace two more items: a) AC receiver/drier/accumulator b) AC expansion valve (Comes complete in a kit on Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5243757&cc=1212905&jnid=457&jpid=2)


Questions:

Does the AC receiver and expansion valve both need to be identical to the ones currently in the vehicle, or are they more universal when installing?

Should I also order O-rings?

I'm having a shop do the install work, professionally test, flush and fill it back up, but they'd prefer I provide the parts.

Anything else I'm missing? I know I need a new belt.

The drier (called as such because it contains desiccant which removes water from the system and traps it inside the unit) doesn't need to be OEM, but it is specific to the system (mounting points, port sizes, etc.) so you need to order exactly what is required by your car. Aftermarket is okay, but there is no "universal" for this part. This is recommend to replace every time the A/C system is opened, allowing water (humidity) the opportunity to enter. It's also arguably possible to slowly evaporate the water from a drier by pulling a vacuum on the system for a couple hours, but most replace the drier instead, especially if the drier has been in the system for more than a year or so.

Same goes for the expansion valve. This item doesn't have to be OEM, but is very specific to your car (mounting points, port sizes, etc.) and needs to be for your car. Aftermarket is okay, but there is no "universal" for this part either. The expansion valve regulates the pressure between the low and the high side of the system and basically controls the temperature of the cabin heat exchanger (how cold the thing in the dash gets). It keeps the heat exchanger cold, but not cold enough to cause icing.

Those two items are very good to replace while the system is open. The drier especially. If the expansion valve is over 5-10 years old it might as well be replaced as well.


Yes, you will need o-rings. Every single connection point has an o-ring. Many of the o-rings are different diameters and thicknesses. Sometimes you can get away with a $5 universal pack from a local parts store. Other times you need to source OEM or equivalent aftermarket o-rings because the universal packs might not have exactly the sizes you need. Getting the correct size o-ring is very important, and makes all the difference between a tiny leak or a fully sealed system.

You will probably also want to get new "service ports" which are the Schrader valves used to fill/empty the system. One is on the high pressure side, the other on the lower pressure side. They are different sizes, so two different parts.

I know @bhowle and @MR-4Door-SR20DET have a lot of experience in this area.

I just added this to The Manifesto: http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/14360-project-c-beat-heat-pics-inside.html
Should have added it a long time ago.

^^^ What he said. ^^^

I don't think I asked my question in a manner that was fully understood.

That AC compressor is clearly the exact same unit as is currently on my car.


There are four (4) different (Nissan, 1993, Sentra, 2.0 liter) "AC drier/accumulators" on Rock Auto. Are they really all the same?

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=bhpqcgeise88pg1orrcqj3g1j7

This is my current AC drier/accumulator:









They have three (3) different "expansion valves" listed (Nissan, 1993, Sentra, 2.0 liter). Should all of those shown on Rock Auto work with my car? I cannot even find that damn expansion valve under the hood.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=bhpqcgeise88pg1orrcqj3g1j7

I am *guessing* this is the drivers-side, non-ABS, CV joint inner boot?



Once again, I can find them on Rock Auto, but am having trouble determining which exact boot I need.:???:

VE oil pan. Mine is dented. Some folks scoffed at this damage in my M/M feedback thread.

However I am still concerned so I took additional pictures today.


Do I need a new one? Can this be banged-out and re-used? Left as-is no problems?







Just eye-balling it, that dent is 3/4" to 1" deep.

bang it out or order a RR pan as they should be the same. personally, I would order a new pan as it has to come off anyways to hit it "wit ze hammer"

The oil pan is an easy fix once it's off. 5 or 6 whacks with a ball peen hammer and it'll be good as new.

Cleaning up the pan rail and block surface super squeaky clean will take more time than banging out the pan. It should look at least this clean when you're done.


Once all the bolts are out of the pan, use a metal 5-in-1 painters tool to break the seal. And for God's sake, use Permatex Ultra Grey to seal it up. Nobody wants to see a spec of red sealant on a Nissan engine.



Don't tighten the pan up too much, or you'll cause a leak. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet, nothing bigger than that. More isn't better here.

C

Definitely replace the drier, I wouldn't bother with the expansion valve unless you are purchasing one from the dealer. Aftermarket ones never seem to work correctly. I'm also wary of the four seasons compressors. I always stick with OEM, Denso or Valeo.

Don't quote me on this, but that's probably because it is somewhere near the evaporator under/behind the glove box by the firewall. (The evaporator is a small radiator-like heat exchanger that chills the cabin air as it passes through on its way to your face, named as such because that's where the refrigerant evaporates, an endothermic process you will recall from high school.) The expansion valve regulates the temperature of the evaporator (by controlling how much refrigerant is allowed to expand from a liquid to a gas), so it is usually right next to it so the thermocouple (thermometer) build into it can be short.

Sorry I can't help with the other questions right now, I'm on a connection that is blocking your images. I will chime in again later when I get to a better connection.

If memory serves me correctly, the dents in the oil pan were extremely minor. If this were any other engine, I would leave it. Since it is a FWD SR20, you could hammer the dents out to make absolutely sure all is well at your leisure. Or buy a new one if you want it to look perfect.

FYI, links to Rock Auto parts never work properly even if you post them correctly. We will have to look them up ourselves to see what you're talking about.