Thread: gauge and window switch power from stereo amp ign wire

Was about to wire 2 gauges and window switch into this one wire cause they would turn on and off with ignition but figured I would ask first.

Other option is toggle switch.

Your question is vague. Why are you wiring your windows into your stereo? Did this car not have power windows (what year/model)? Those would normally be on their own circuit, if you add those to your radio power circuit, there's a very good chance you'd blow a fuse while your car is thumping and you decide to roll the windows down.

Gauges may not be as big a deal, very low current draw there typically.

I have all my gauges running off a dedicated relay. Hook it up to a switched 12v source and run a wire directly from the battery and you will have no issues. I think I used the cig lighter for the 12v switched source. Dave

You're right sorry. I meant I dont have a headunit so all the wiring is just sitting there. I was talking about the wire that gives the headunit or an amp power. It works with ignition so isnt on all the time. It is usually a blue wire but I havent looked.

And the window switch isnt the windows its for vvl lol. My bad

If I do a toggle switch it will be fused. But the wire im wondering about should be fused already.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/car-entertainment-general-electronics/76987-wiring-multiple-gauges-question.html

This dude post #10 did it I guess.

May look into the plug speedricer used.

Ah ha, OK. That does clear things up. The RPM Window Switch and the gauges should all be relatively low current draw, and the radio probably had at least a 20A fuse on that circuit, so you should be fine. You may want to wire it all up and put an ammeter in the circuit to see what the actual power draw is with the gauges lit and everything, I'd actually be surprised if that's much over 1a draw.

I wired up the window switch and oil pressure gauge using the oem stereo harness because I dont have a stereo. It works great. Its already switched and fused and only supplies power when ignition is on. The ground wasnt working, but I was digging around back there and it looks like the previous owner messed around and didnt know what they were doing. The person I bought it from mentioned that it was jacked up from the person he got it from so he just took it out. He was gonna part it. Anyways a grounded to the chassis in the engine bay and its all good.

The part I didnt expect was the big lobe activation switch is the low rpm setting and the deactivation switch is the high rpm setting. I cant rearrange it. So say it activates at 5700 and deactivates at 8400. They talk about it being activation "points", which would mean I would have to drop below 5700 and then reactivate when it hits 5700 again. But being a "window switch" I would expect it not to go off of specific points, rather it would supply ground anywhere within the 5700 - 8400 rpm "window". Let me know what you know, its the one from greg. I will test it more tomorrow in the light.