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Thread: GTi-R - no power after 4000rpm

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Posts: 1-8 of 8
2015-08-23 22:41:50
GTi-R - no power after 4000rpm
I have original LHD GTi-R (quite rare, huh?) but im having a hard time with it. Its accelerate to about 4000rpm well, but then it lost a breath... and runs maybe worse than SR20DE.

What Ive changed and tried:

- new rotor/cap
- new NGK BKR7E plugs
- cold engine has 12bar on all cylinder = like new engine
- idle fuel pressure 2.5bar, then in higher rpm it gets a little higher but i thought it should be at least 3bar. Thats on neutral.
- after connecting fuel pump directly to battery, it runs a little bit better
- turbo make stock 0.7bar till redline
- wastegate moves, wg sensor "clicks"
- it showed knock sensor fault
- injectors at 88% with totally stock GTiR engine seems weird
- max. timing at 50° (i guess 20° mechanical and 30° ecu)

Any ideas what to try or check?

Last edited by jagy on 2015-08-23 at 22-48-18.
2015-08-25 19:37:12
Bump, any ideas?
2015-08-25 21:15:45
Check MAF readings.

Smoke test the intake system between turbo and throttle plate to check for boost leaks.
2015-08-26 11:38:08
ditto on checking for boost leaks
2015-08-26 18:05:34
Knock sensor fault also can retarding the ign. timing and no power then.
Also check maf sensor ground (add new one to engine block or to there intake manifold where have all grounds connected).
2015-08-27 10:49:04
Check O2 sensor, MAF, and Knock sensor wires. Had a similar issue in a perfectly good DE and didn't realize the issue until i had already bought a VE looool.
2015-08-31 06:35:47
- max. timing at 50° (i guess 20° mechanical and 30° ecu)

?? ECU and engine should be in sync, that's a strange statement. Can you go into more detail? The timing you see in your scanner should be equal to what you see w/a timing light unless you want to artificially retard/advance your timing from the base map.

2015-09-04 13:52:54
I had the same issue and it was the thermistor (ECU Temp sensor) plug. It had dry rotted and the clip broke loose.
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