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Thread: still battling cooling issues

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Posts: 11-20 of 38
2008-06-30 17:23:46
#11
Originally Posted by jen36
so your saying that your after market gauge is reading hot to?? ok well there is your issue you said that your fans sometimes come on and sometimes not?? if that is the case then you need to check your fan fuse and and connections to the fans and trace wires to see if your grounding out. check to see if your fans and see if they are not burning out/..

other then that i dont know what to tell you. the mix is not the problem its something else.. are you bleeding it right? have your check your thermostat?


thermosatat works.....and blleed ir right
2008-06-30 17:59:25
#12
Originally Posted by PEDRONX2k
thermosatat works.....and blleed ir right


List the steps you used to bleed it.
2008-06-30 19:06:24
#13
I know I've probably asked before, but what radiator cap are you using?

Pull the belt off of your PS pump/Water pump and spin the water pump pulley. How freely does it spin? Does it feel like you're getting solid resistance from it?
2008-06-30 20:17:27
#14
Originally Posted by TeKKiE
I know I've probably asked before, but what radiator cap are you using?

Pull the belt off of your PS pump/Water pump and spin the water pump pulley. How freely does it spin? Does it feel like you're getting solid resistance from it?


^ X 2

Originally Posted by jer_760
List the steps you used to bleed it.


^ X 2.............Also, I would like to hear your steps. I pretty much followed my haynes manual when I installed my NX rad on my SE-R.
2008-06-30 20:28:40
#15
yeah no way you should be overheating unless something was up. i live in the hottest part in the country basicly. 116 and some days over 120, im only running one pusher flexalite 1200cfm fan and my temps even in stop and go dont even get up much past 200. Cruising and on the highway im way down there like in the mid to high 180's. And im turbo'd so there is a ton of extra heat under the hood from my tubular manifold thats not even heatwrapped.

Definetly make sure to bleed it properly, if you dont it will overheat every time. ive had it to where i had such a big bubble in the system and it was stuck in my radiator. the one half where my fan is was cool. like not even hot to the touch, the other half was hella hot, the lower radiator hose was hella hot. so none of the coolant was hitting my drivers side of the radiator and just passing through the other side which wasnt being cooled. I added more coolant and burped the system and whalla the radiator was hot all the way accross. Its weird but bubbles can get stuck in the craziest spots. I dont think your mixture is the problem like Danja was saying you can run straight water and it should still stay cool thats just not good for the cooling system.

Neways definetly check over your stuff, could be thermostat, could be water pump or could be the fact your not bleeding it properly. Good luck man
2008-06-30 20:53:59
#16
Bleeding my NX was a royal PITA!! Eventually, I had to put the front end up on jack stands. Then I opened the radiator & relief valve on the thermostat to get all the air out. Turn your heater all the way open. Watch for a steady stream from the Thermostat relief opening before closing it..

As for the Water Wetter, that stuff works REALLY great... In fact, it works too good...
Do not put in more than 1/2 bottle... Otherwise you will not have much heat next winter.

I agree with Tekkie & Jen above.. You must have all 4 parts working to resolve this problem: Properly mixed Coolant with air bubbles removed, working coolant thermostat, working radiator fans with good relays & fuses, and working/non-leaking water pump w/good taunt belt... Otherwise, you overheat..

You should be able to feel water moving thru your large radiator hoses if your water pump is working;
Your fans should come on when the temp sensor (behind the oil filter) is unplugged;
The water pump should be dry and not dragging/making noise when in operation;
You should be able to feel water moving thru your lower radiator house if the thermostat has opened up...
2008-07-01 00:42:20
#17
NX's don't get much airflow to the radiator because of the front lip/bumper design. if your cooling fans arent working, then i don't think the small amount of airflow is enough to cool your engine. make sure your fans are both coming on and they should have a high and low speed. it would also help to hook them up to a switch so you can turn them on whenever you want to.
2008-07-01 00:49:57
#18
I relayed my fan to the fuel pump relay . Starts right up with car and stays on all the time!
2008-07-01 13:28:47
#19
Originally Posted by TeKKiE
I know I've probably asked before, but what radiator cap are you using?

Pull the belt off of your PS pump/Water pump and spin the water pump pulley. How freely does it spin? Does it feel like you're getting solid resistance from it?


i think its the pump....i have to replace the belts anyways so i will test it out.....
yesterdfay i did 50/50 and added water wetter..and the temps stayed cooler for longer but still went up to 230...what are normal operating temps?
2008-07-01 13:33:43
#20
Originally Posted by DC
Bleeding my NX was a royal PITA!! Eventually, I had to put the front end up on jack stands. Then I opened the radiator & relief valve on the thermostat to get all the air out. Turn your heater all the way open. Watch for a steady stream from the Thermostat relief opening before closing it..

As for the Water Wetter, that stuff works REALLY great... In fact, it works too good...
Do not put in more than 1/2 bottle... Otherwise you will not have much heat next winter.

I agree with Tekkie & Jen above.. You must have all 4 parts working to resolve this problem: Properly mixed Coolant with air bubbles removed, working coolant thermostat, working radiator fans with good relays & fuses, and working/non-leaking water pump w/good taunt belt... Otherwise, you overheat..

You should be able to feel water moving thru your large radiator hoses if your water pump is working;
Your fans should come on when the temp sensor (behind the oil filter) is unplugged;
The water pump should be dry and not dragging/making noise when in operation;
You should be able to feel water moving thru your lower radiator house if the thermostat has opened up...


sounds like wat i did....but i didnt open the bleeder on the thermostat housing...if wen i take off the belts and test/spin the water pump,how easy should it be?im deffintly leading that its the water pump cuz lately theres a wierd noise coming from around there...
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