Thread: still battling cooling issues

You shouldn't see anything over 210~215, tbh. When the coolant temps reach that temp, the fans will come on and you'll see the temps drop almost immediately.



There should be a bit of resistance, for sure. You shouldn't be able to spin it freely, meaning grab the pulley and yank it to see if the pulley spins on it's own, AT ALL. I would think of it like the crank pulley. If you try to spin it to where it rotates on it's own, that's not good.

I bet all of us with NX's with cooling issues all have headers. You never noticed it before you had them on or do not remember that far back. I almost guarentee that the lack of airflow and all that heat off the manifold is baking the radiator.

You may have a point there.. I had to install a new coolant thermostat & water wetter soon after installing my SSAC header.. After getting the bubbles out of the system, the cooling problems were resolved.



Yep, you must remove the little thermostat bleeder screw. Air get trapped inside the housing & behind the thermostat. This allows the air bubble to escape and only then will the thermostat work properly. Note, this only happens when the closed cooling system is opened (busted hose, thermostat replacement, water pump replacement, etc). Thus, I dont think your problem is with the coolant.. My money is on your fans and/or failing thermostat! ! But noise in that area is not a good sign for the pump!! Hopefully not the pump...

To access the water pump (royal PITA), I put the car on jack stands and remove the passenger front tire & wheel well cover. Then you can see the water pump, check the belt, and check for leaks while the car is running. Changing it requires removing the rear & passenger side motor mounts and lowering the engine wayyyyy down... You will only have a few inches to work. I did it once and vowed to pay $$ a shop to change it in the future..

Follow Tekkie's instructions above to test the pulley if its not leaking. If it leaking or if the pulley is bad, take it to a shop; believe me!! Changing the NX Water Pump is not a easy garage floor project; 1-10 DIY level of difficulty is a full 10 (8 with a lift & proper tools)!

Note: If you change the pump, have them check the often forgotten - 2 little/short hoses under the Intake Mani (also a major PITA). Change them if you havent changed them yet (as the extra pressure from a new pump will cause them to fail quickly if old & worn). I would also change the coolant thermostat with a new pump (some people install the 190deg thermostat to help keep our NXs cooler).

seethis all happened wen i did the vw headlight conversion.....as i hit the stock rad with the sawzall!!!and sprung aleakl!!!

so i got a new USED rad from an automatic nx and since then ive had this cooling issue....never before with the stock rad and headers,,,,,but thats a good point to think about the heat soaking the rad from the headers....imean ther is no heatsheild....

and ive even made a radiator cooling plate for my nx before the USED rad and it helped with my temps......

what exactly is a radiator cooling plate?

Im thinking he is talking about a home-made header heat shield like this..

It would be hard to do a Radiator cooling plate or shield with the fans unless you mount the fan as pushers on the front side. In NX's thats a tight fit; even with slim fans... And most NX's also have the Power Steering cooling wire coil up there (unless it was replaced with the Sentra PS retrofit).

But I could be completely wrong though. Ive seen some very creative fabs with these Nissans...

I have seriously considered adding a 3rd pusher slim fan on my NX when it was overheating. Ordered the fan but changed my mind when I encountered the PS wiring and saw the very tight clearance. Too lazy to do the Sentra PS retrofit...

look at my post here

this is supposed to help make the air flow through the rad in stead of over....this is the first one i mad...but got ruine in the crash over the winter...right no i have an updated peice with better size and edges on it will post pics if neede....oh ya this is a one off peice by me.....budgetnx has his own version as well.....

Thats kewl.. Does it really help any? The reason I ask, is that the real heat is being generated on the other side of the radiator from the header.. You would think the air flow improvement wouldnt be enough to offset the header heat.

well ive just replaced the tstat...and still having this temp problem....im gonna replace the water pump and get rid of my power steering as well...cuz the ps fluid is burning?and the fluid color is like blood in the resivor and it makes a weird noise


i think tokes or someone had a write up on how to get rid of power steering with out an idler pulley,meaning just the crank and wp pulley are on one belt.....were is that at?

somone help me

found it....http://sr20-forum.com/showthread.php?t=4257