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Thread: Broke my axle last night DOH! (Pics)

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Posts: 41-50 of 63
2015-03-24 03:28:03
#41
Originally Posted by Storm88000
Does anyone sell or make a polyurethane control arm bushing set? since I'll be fucking around down there anyway.. ?


Originally Posted by Storm88000
Does anyone sell or make a polyurethane control arm bushing set? since I'll be fucking around down there anyway.. ?


Sorry to read about your troubles. To answer your question, yes, answers can be found here in our great repository of suspension knowledge that Shawn B gathered up for us.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-library/1801-b13-b14-b15-suspension-information.html

I have a mix of Whiteline and ES bushings... along with Moog ball joints and tie rod ends. The easiest solution is to buy a new old-stock Nissan LCA pre-loaded with ball joint. Bolt right up and go about your life. It's new and it's stock. The more difficult, but better performance solution is to rebuild a used arm with after market parts like I did. It's a PITA, but not complex... it just requires some specialty tools. Your choice.
2015-03-24 05:39:36
#42
Originally Posted by Kyle
Not confusing, SE-R means more money. There is no difference as they are geometrically the same, OEM vs OEM.



Haha, what sneaky bastards. Unbelievable.
2015-03-24 14:10:48
#43
Whiteline bushing for added caster (the "D" shaped bushing). Everything else Energy Suspension.
2015-03-24 18:56:29
#44
ok I just picked up an arm from the yard. I also noticed a P11 G20 while walking around. as first the arm appeared very similar then we noticed the B14 one is shorter. ah well
2015-03-24 22:41:28
#45
Running into a slight issue. Since I'm doing it by myself, as I try to tighten the main castle nut with an open 22" wrench everything spins with it, I tried wedging it, but it looks like im going to have to go get some really strong vice grips to stop it from turning.
2015-03-25 05:31:59
#46
Get it as tight as you can then drop the car on the ground and try again
2015-03-25 12:52:40
#47
Jack the arm up until it stops then tighten it. The same method can be used to remove it.


Also, maake sure you press in a MOOg ball joint before you put in the old arm. Chances are the old balljoint is shot anywho and the new one is only 20-30 dollars from rockauto or amazon.

Also, you can remove the ball joint while on the car by supporting the LCA and just using a BFH and (with the castle nut on top) just hammer it down and out a few times. The best method is renting a balljoint remover/installer from a autoparts store (shoud be free rental) and it should be a 10-15 min removal/install job on the balljoint.

Goodluck!
2015-03-25 15:41:20
#48
Yah, use a jack under it to press it up to stop it spinning.
2015-03-25 18:09:07
#49
I did @wildmane 's version and it worked perfectly thank you
2015-03-25 20:45:04
#50
Nevrmind I had a brain fart..move
Along.. Lol
Last edited by Storm88000 on 2015-03-25 at 22-39-56.
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