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Thread: Back at it again...

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2015-02-27 20:27:02
Back at it again...
So I put together an avenir block with a n/a low port head. I got it to start but it won't idle with 0 vacuum leaks. Also it overheats to quickly. The valve cover gets super hot in a matter of 20secs or less(mind you it won't idle unless I keep spraying starter fluid). I think I might have coolant back pressure somewhere. Does anyone have a diagram for coolant flow or hose locations? The only one I found was the rwd sr. I wanna hit the overheating issue first so any feedback helps. I wanna check for back pressure before I change the water pump. As far as the idling issue I'm not to worried about at this time. Thanks!

** almost forgot to mention t25 is attached with oil cooler,and mishimoto cooling parts.
Driving and posting is not illegal!
Last edited by LpSR20DET on 2015-03-03 at 07-44-48.
2015-03-09 22:17:23
replaced water pump, works but no difference in temperature. Vehicle temp increases faster than normal. I'm thinking my temp issue might have something to do with my starting/idling problem. There are no vacuum leaks, idle air components functioning, and I'm at a stand still. Im running a JWT ECU (9:5:0Cr with 370cc turbo, stock MAF) but the engine is 8:5:0Cr until i get around sending it out to be reprogramed.
2015-03-10 14:01:39
Do you have an FSM?
2015-03-10 14:18:26
I do...
2015-03-10 14:39:20
First things first: Remove thermostat and test to make sure it is opening correctly. I have a feeling it's not and you also may have air in the system (which will explain why the car gets up to temp so quickly. Air has much less heat capacity than coolant/water so it heats up much quicker and not able to remove heat from the block)

Second order of business: get rid of the mishimoto parts. Mishimoto is knockoff CXracing junk.

Once everything checks out, go install a proper Koyo (or even a stock one as they are good for most mild setups), then PROPERLY bleed the system. Get the radiator as high as possible, fill up, turn car on until thermostat opens, continue to fill until bubbles have stoppped coming to the top. Wait to cool a little, cap radiator.

There is really not much to the cooling system on these things.

The ecu should have a much milder timing map, so that would be the last of my worries (9.5 commands less timing than 8.5, so by default, you should be running less timing than the 9.5).
2015-03-10 14:42:28
PS Don't just replace parts to replace parts. If the waterpump is going bad, there is a good chance it would be seeping fluid through the weep hole

In hindsight, you got it out of the way and won't have to worry about it for a while
2015-03-10 16:25:43
I thought about what you said and I put 2&2 together, could the t25 cause excessive overheating. Just to give a little backstory that t25 has been put on 2 sr's and it caused the same overheating problem and even blew the head gasket on one of the sr's.
2015-03-22 08:56:58
i decided to give my fuel system a second look and come to find out my injectors were clogged. What i ended up doing was hooking up the harness only to a spare distributor, then spun the gear drive resulting in no fuel flow through injectors except for one and that was barely. so i ordered another set of injectors and hopefully they will be here soon! i will continue to update on progress...
2015-03-22 19:57:27
I was going to say fuel lol if you run lean it increases your temperatures and obviously messes with the idle too
2015-03-26 19:36:34
im cursed! i Fixed the fuel issue and now im having an oil pressure issue.... im starting to think SR's are telling me they dont like me and i should start looking else where.... and i dont wanna keep dropping hundreds of more dollars just to get it running if its just gonna keep having issues.this is a pita.
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