Thread: Ugh .... LCA ball joint.

I replaced my ball joint , I thought it was in there good but it popped out. If you make a turn and it's a dip or turn onto a steep ramp and
Hear a loud knock or click . Check the ball joint. had to buy a completely new control arm.

when dealing with ball joints and tie rods i usually like to just tap the side (side of tie rod or lower portion where the ball joint fits into the knuckle) that way you don't ruin the boots on the ball joint with a pickle fork or a separator of some kind. couple wacks with 4lb sledge will do the trick.

Forgot where i got. McQuay Norris.



Think it's in there pretty good.

As long as you bottom it out to apply the snap ring you're good.you put the es bushings in too?

The fork is wat I use.i grease it good before I put it back so it prevents boot rip a little bit.couple of whacks...out.need to invest in a separator for it.ones I have won't clear

Saw that in the DD Brown thread. Considering it's only $20, may just get one. Though it looks like it can still chew up boots if not used carefully.
3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator
Same one, close enough?

That worked just fine on the tie rods, but the ball joints .... not so much. Since had some lying around, no big deal. Was just looking to replace a control arm likely bent on Bob. Didn't expect the donor's boots to already be ripped. *shrugs*
Pretty sure the ones on Chip are toast, so we'll just do that all over again on that car. Will be as quick as a pro by then ... hopefully.
Just have to pick up another pair. Of balls. Lulz

Hope so. Made a point of really cranking down on the tool as best I could and leaving it sit for a few minutes to set. Oddly enough picked up snap ring pliers on a lark a while back, still in the package when I started the project. Would have not thought of picking one up for this. Woot



Debating doing that, or just the rear pivot here on Bob. The front sleeves on the donor arms are still quite stiff, that one alone will double the time needed to finish and I only have one set. The rear should be quick. Ultimately the offset Whiteline makes a bigger difference anyway so thinking just buy those separately for later.



That's a great tip actually. The rubber is obviously grease resistant so if wanting to reuse a component that should definitely minimize if not prevent damage.

UPDATE

Pics would be nice ......... but didn't think of it at the time.
Grabbed the other donor LCA and went about replacing the ball joint. Cause such susp R&Rs are best done in pairs.
After torching the mating surface, another squirt of PB, then used the battery impact on the tool this time. With a fully charged battery.
It popped out quite easily.

Couple drops of oil and the new ball went in like butter.

For both pulling and pushing I didn't crank on the gun. Just bumped it until stopped turning. Gave one more good twist with the long breaker and called it done.

Don't want to deal with the time it will take to do the bolt thru bushing, still firm yet pliable. But the backs are chewed up. Thinking of just replacing those and swapping the arms as is

This is getting ridiculous.
Taking 3x longer than my last clutch job, and counting.

Had the donor arms lying side by side and not only were the rear bushings quite gnarly, but they were at very different angles. One maybe 20 degrees from the 'plane' of the arm the other more like 45. Soaked em in PB and fired up the vise. While it was interesting to chew it up and see that it's a composite structure, rubber/metal sleeve/rubber, most of it remained on the arm.
Tried burning it off but the smell was horrendous and figured a neighbor might call this one in to the cops too.
So now, need to find a shop to yank those things off so I can pop on the ES polys.
*sigh*

If there is a next time, will prolly just buy loaded arms and call it a day.