Thread: Ugh .... LCA ball joint.

Was looking to replace the curbed (likely bent) arm on Bob figuring he'd be more useful, or easier to sell if he drove straight.
When I got a look at the donor arm was surprised to see the boot on the ball joint was already torn. Hadn't even come close to it with a pickle fork yet. *shrugs*
No big whoop, have a couple of new 'made in Japan' ball joints lying around.
Ran over to HB just before closing to pick up this tool.
Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles
Wouldn't ya know, none of the sleeves are the right diameter to clear the bottom of the ball but still fit snug on the arm to remove it. Ultimately .... useless.

Don't really want to buy a loaded arm since I have the balls and the bushings look OK (and have ES replacements for down the road anyway). But don't want to damage the arm blasting the old one out with some gorilla technique either.
Do the rental kits from AutoNapaPep have more sleeves or are they pretty much what was bought?
Suggestions welcome on who would do this right if I were to punt to a pro on it.

Same thing(different brand 'OEM') you get at auto, don't know about the other two.

From the two ball joints I've done with the AZ one, no adapter is exact but it'll get the job done.

I have what appears to be the same kit and mine worked when I did LCA on my G20. There looks no difference in ball joints so that kit should work. I will have to confirm is kit no. 8065 is the same one i have but the photo in the link appeared the same. It was a small pai to use it and the smallest size was required but it worked.

Grab a propane torch while your shopping. The heat will really help get that sucker moving. The last one I did I had to take an acetylene torch to it.

I could see how the smallest sleeve could work for installing, since the threaded post and boot fit inside, but for removal it's just barely too small to let the base of the ball joint pass through. The next size up sleeve fits crooked on the raised edge of the control arm.
Is it that once all tighnened down, doesn't make much difference, and the edge of the arm can take the pressure?


Good idea. Have one, was hoping to avoid lighting up all the PB Blaster, but should have evaporated enough by this evening.

Who knows, maybe getting it nice and hot may allow the BFH method to at least pop it out. I'd be happy with that and using the tool to get the new one in.

A good trick is to get the component nice and hot, then remove the flame and spray it with pb blaster as it cools. The cooling allows for the lubricant to be sucked into crevasses it normally wouldnt be able to reach. Also, remove the boot and clean up as much grease as you can before torching the bitch.

Thanks for tip.



Some reviews of the tool suggested taking it slow with a ratchet with the occasional tap from a BFH. Others said to just wail on it with an impact. Since I would have to walk back to the house to grab the gun tried the former 1st. That got it moving and halfway out. A final couple of whacks popped it right out.

Now to get the new one in ... WOOT

As expected, putting one in was a bit easier. Arranging the entire assembly was a little awkward, balancing the control arm while fitting the adapter ends to both sides and then tightening the big C clamp. No worse than removal.
A couple of drops of oil and it mostly went in w/ a 1/2" ratchet. Started a little crooked, straightened out once it took some cranking. Did have to break out the breaker bar to fully seat it, but it's in there solid.

May just do the driver's side too now that the tricks are all under belt, it should go much quicker. R&R on Bob shouldn't take more than an evening even doing both.

What kind of ball joint you think you are going to use?ball joints ain't bad on our cars.i have the same tool.used it to install it.i used a 5 lb hammer and a channel lock to pop the ball joint out wedged a jack underneath the arm and an express shot out .I'm thinking of getting moogs...the fact that it's greasable makes it so much better to maintain

The tool in the pic below works great for tie rods (shown) as well as ball joints. It's adjustable and uses the alternate pivot point for the ball joints. Purchased at Harbor Freight.