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Thread: Starter replacement tips, tricks, anything because this sucks balls!!

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2015-01-23 23:05:15
Starter replacement tips, tricks, anything because this sucks balls!!
Hey guys I'm preparing to battle the shitty starter and the infamous y/u bracket on a 1999 SE-L. I have read several how tos, and will use these for reference, but it seems like I am in for a knuckle busting, booze drinking, foul mouthing good time.

Are there any tip or suggestions for making this any easier? I start a new job Monday and want to use the SE-L instead of my Saab convertible for daily usage.

- is there any benefit to removing the wheel/guard for access?

- any tips for removing the loom connector from the y bracket? Can the bracket be removed once it is free of bolts and wire connector?

- is there anything else I should do while I am in this area of the car? I will do a general inspection, but anything else? She's also due for an oil change which will be done as well. Gotta love Wally world and their cheap oil!

I have a jack and stands, full socket set with multiple extensions and swivel joints. Will anything else make my life easier outside of a lift?

Oh yeah, what are the preferred jack and stand points? Any pics or links would be dope.

Thanks all in advance.

2015-01-23 23:18:15
Pretty simple job really man. Take out your intake crap and gain access to the 2 starter bolts. From under the car, unbolt that bracket, you can remove it. I think you can get starter out with it loose and pushed outta the way though. Get all the connections off the starter b4 loosing it. Then go up and loosen bolts and drop that sucker out of there.

When putting new one in, I reach my right hand around to hold the starter in place as you start the bolts. Much easier with 2 people, but can be done with one.

Like I said, should be an easy one with right tools. Good luck my man.
2015-01-23 23:33:07
It's not that bad. As long as you realize you'll need to remove the Y bracket, you're in good shape. You will probably need to access the top of the bracket from the top of the engine, but most of the job should be done on your back from the center of the car. There should be no need to remove anything else other than the Y bracket. No wheel well guards, no intake bits, etc.
Oh, well, you'll need to remove the air box stuff to get at the starter bolts. But no need to deal with the intake manifold itself.

Do yourself a favor and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU DO THIS JOB! There is a live wire connected directly to the battery you'll be working with, and you don't want to start any fires.

Do not re-install the Y bracket. Throw it away, or make some art project out of it. It should no be re-installed.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-01-23 at 23-38-34.
2015-01-23 23:37:34
Yes, like Ben said, ditch that bracket.
2015-01-23 23:44:18
Prior to doing some research it took my almost half an hour to even find the starter because of that damn bracket! I am decently mechanically inclined, so the battery has been disconnected and removed. CAI has been removed, and waiting for B.I.L. (Brother in law) to help me tomorrow or Sunday with the job. I have changed a couple starters in my days, and I must say this is the shittiest placement for a starter I have encountered.

Oh yeah, where to put the jack stands? My pinch welds are kinda beat. Any suggestions? I searched, but other forums with pics or diagrams have images that are no longer good.

Thanks for the prompt replies!
2015-01-23 23:59:36
Sorry for the last minute questions. I have a white line 4 point brace. It doesn't SEEM like it will affect the job, but should I remove it? I'd prefer not to, if at all possible.
2015-01-24 01:22:03
I've never used a pinch weld in my life to lift or hold a car up. The idea never appealed to me.
For the B chassis, I'll lift the front via the lower radiator support in the center where the crossmember joins it. I'll then support the sides with jackstands out by the tow hooks, on the lower support.
Or if you need more height, you can put the jack stands under the front lower control arms where they meet the chassis.

In the back, I'll lift and support by the chassis rails on the outside. On a B14 with a solid rear it might be even easier.

The whiteline brace might not cause you any issues, but I'm not 100% on that. Don't remove it unless you think you have to.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2015-01-24 at 01-23-20.
2015-01-24 03:02:44
Once that bracket is gone you can change the starter from the top...I had always gone underneath for years,then @j-feli told me he did it from the top...he was right its actually alot fasster than all that jacking up and down shit.
As for jackstand points....I put them under where the control arm pivots(large bushing) its stable and out of the way enought to do just about anything.
Theres a reinforced area on the pinchweld for jacking,thats what I use.I cringe at jacking on the lower Rad support as I would be afraid it would bent. I had a z32 that was messed up from a previous owner doing that,so ever since I have stayed away from that....Maybe the B13 is strong enough,and @BenFenner is a smart dude,but I am still unsure of that method.

FYI I have done a trans swap without removing my whiteline 4pt bar so no issues with the starter.
Last edited by eggman on 2015-01-25 at 17-59-22.
2015-01-25 23:26:17
I have the bracket loose. The starter is "stuck" to the trans. Tried a hammer, and can't get a pry bar on to separate the starter. What are we missing. Any help please. Also, that bracket was a biznitch. This is the worst thing I've ever seen. Pain in the ace for sure.
2015-01-26 00:05:23

Center of cross member for the garage jack to lift under.
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