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Thread: Lowport fuel rail removal

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Posts: 1-10 of 11
2014-06-05 19:28:19
#1
Lowport fuel rail removal
Is it absolutely necessary to remove the intake manifold to get the fuel rail & injectors out? I'm doing a full rail/injector swap this weekend and from what I gather through days of searching is that the intake manifold has to be removed.
2014-06-05 21:28:50
#2
Just remove the top half.
2014-06-05 21:48:07
#3
Originally Posted by txtard
Just remove the top half.


professional first post right here
2014-06-06 20:36:00
#4
Alright thanks guys, sigh of relief there. Crossing my fingers this puts an end to my misfire/hesitation issue.
2014-06-06 21:07:59
#5
It's really hard to get out without removing the top half of the intake manifold but can be done. If you delete the water lines on the TB and grind 2 tabs on the fuel rail you can make it really easy to get in and out next time. That's what I did and I can swap injectors in less than an hour.
2014-06-06 23:59:21
#6
Hopefully "next time" is a VE swap.
2014-06-12 00:34:56
#7
So the new injectors, fuel filter and new vacuum lines (one was burst open so I replaced them all) and I still have a misfire/hesitation that of all things is NOT throwing any CEL codes. Anyone know what it could be? If I go WOT the car hangs up at 4k rpm and doesn't want to rev very well. Clogged cat?
Last edited by blackb15 on 2014-06-12 at 00-36-15.
2014-06-12 12:27:55
#8
Cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires?
2014-06-12 14:37:20
#9
Originally Posted by squirlz
Cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires?


What he said, or MAF, Timing.... I picked up my girls 00' RR sentra cheap because it had a similar miss and hesitation problem that they couldn't figure out and it was just the MAF. It was throwing a code tho...
2014-06-12 17:42:02
#10
Originally Posted by squirlz
Cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires?


Cap, rotor and plus are new. Wires are not. I attempted to replace them once but they were aftermarket wires and they fit like crap so I took them back. This is what I have replaced all in an effort to try and get rid of the problem:

- Injectors
- Fuel Filter
- Spark Plugs
- Distributor cap
- Rotor
- Vacuum lines
- Front O2 sensor
- Knock sensor

Timing was checked and set about a month ago, haven't rechecked it. I'll try cleaning the MAF tonight, since the car is horrible to drive right now. I made it mad last night, it started misfiring while pulling away from a light so I gave it more gas and that just made is worse. It came back to all 4 after 10 seconds or so, but now just cruising down the road you can feel it missing. It won't idle at all without skipping.
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