Thread: AGGGG I want to set fire to this thing

About two months ago I started my NX after 6 years. I installed 2.5 header and jdm intake before we even started it up. After we started it the idle kept racing between 1500 and 2000 rpm and could not figure out why. We changed the IACV and the AAC. I took it a shop and they said the timing was too far advance and was wondering why it had not blown up yet, and they reduced the timing. Took it home and it felt pitiful. The idle was stuck at 1500 rpm. Tried to set the idle using the fsm and the motor ran at 2k with the idle screw completely closed. We ended up blocking off the IACV and manually setting the idle with the throttle body. Tonight I attempted to redo the idle because I had read that the coolant temp sensor was bad it could keep you from timing/idle mode, and changed that sensor. I still cannot set the idle by the screw, but If i pinch the hose going to the IACV I can slow the idle down. I pull out the vice grips and systematically get the idle to 800 using pressure on the hose. I go and check the Timing and it looks like I am running at -2*. I set the Timing back to +15* and it sounds beautiful. I plug tps back up and it is running like new. I was a bout to take it for a small drive when I remembered that there was vice grips clamping that hose. Took the vice grips off and the engine starts racing again 1.5k - 2k. Hence I am about ready to set fire to it. I am going to the hardware store tomorrow and putting a valve inline of that hose and I am going to regulate my idle with that valve.

Sorry it is a lot to read, and it just runs on. I just felt like ranting on here than filling a gas can.

when u have the vice grips on that hose just throw a zip tie on the tightened part, remove your tool and call it a day

I know when my MAF went bad it also gave a bunch of idle problems.. Also adjusting TPS at one point it would idle at 1500 and wouldn't go down no matter what and at another it dropped it..

Checked voltage on both the MAF and TPS and they are both good, Idle is good now... thanks to an inline ball valve.

you check for vac leaks?

All new vacuum lines, and no leaks.

You try getting the ECU into timing and idle adjustment mode with TPS unplugged so the IACV is open a certain amount and then you turn the idle set screw until it reaches the desired RPM, and then shut car off. It's kinda tricky but it really does work. Nissan ECUs never adjust to anything, they just assume everything is set 100% a certain way and then it goes from there. Idle is very tricky to get right if you just keep turning the screw.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/30718-timing-mode.html

A high idle makes you want to set it on fire?

Throw some big ass S4 cams in there and be glad it's high.

I went into timing mode as per the fsm. I can set the timing but not the idle. I have S4's, and having the idle race between 1.5-2k is annoying.

do a smoke leak test or boost test for leaks... you could still have a vac leak from the gasket.

The idle valve under the manifold could also be dead and stuck fully open causing that high idle. (which is why pinching the line to it brings the idle down)