Thread: Pulling 5-Speed at scrap yard. What tools?

let me add to this i do this basically every weekend drop the cross member after you have removed the axels and the the two mounts that 30 min for you bro hahaha and its a wrap and to check the tranny remove the plug and see if theres cutting and how much would give you a good idea whay you about to pay for

First of all, you don't need to drop the crossmember, nor do you have to remove the drivers side axle from the transmission.

Bring breaker bars.

crossmember I agree with, but I'm still not understanding not taking the driver's side axle out. Are you talking about separating it via the C clip like Kyle suggested or removing it from the hub, but not from the tranny?!

-G

why wouldnt you take the driver side axle out? Only reason i leave them in is to keep the trans fluid from coming out. One less thing in the way is always better especially when working in a junkayrd that stuff sucks

you are going to need the crossmember for the manual swap. the automatic one is different. (14mm or 17mm i forget)

dont forget to get the rear motor mount and driver side motor mount and that bracket that connects the transmission to the motor. (14 mm and 17mm)

you will also want to the spacer for the clutch cable where it goes through the fire wall. its on the motor side, you will have to remove the cruise controll module if their is one. I would bring a measuring device and a camera for this part also. Take measurements of where this bracket is mounted and take some pics. it will come in handy when getting ready to drill the firewall. when you go to drill the firewall its alot easier to pull the dashboard and work from the cabin. (12 or 10mm, 1 inch saw drill bit and some other basic bits to drill for the bolt holes)

dont forget the peddles both clutch and break. (10, 12, 14mm)

depending on what you want to do for wiring, you may want to take the engine harness. you will still need to bypass the inhibitor relay but thats easy. I would deffently take the engine harness though and the subharness for the transmission that way you have working reverse lights and what not. (i like to pull harnesses when the motor is out of the car, just pull the ecu plug through the firewall gromit)

shifter linkage and stablizer (12mm socket and wrench, 13mm ratcheting wrench with an agle will be perfect for the stablizer where it goes to the motor/trans bracket and 12 or 14mm where it goes near the shifter)

shifter bezzle and the rubber sleeve thing to keep the heat out (10mm)

flywheel and bolts (12 point 14mm) easiest if you can have someone hold the crank pulley with a socket and rachet while you crack those flywheel bolts, its hard when you are alone but i always just get the breaker bar to wedge up on the controll arm and go from there.

pressure plate bolt 10mm

dont forget to make sure the transmission has good throw out bearing clips

take the starter, im not sure if the autos are the same or not (14mm)

the transmission is held on by mostly 17mm and some 14mm in the back and the starter holds it in also

bring pb blaster and a friend. make sure you buy him lunch becasue its going to be a long day

to test the transmission, i would leave the axles in and spin it in each gear. it should get harder to spin every time you go up a gear. its easy to pull the case off the transmission for these cars to look at the internals. (10mm socket, 12 or 14mm too, snap wring plliers and a rubber mallet would be nice, you will need grey RTV to reassemble, and make sure you keep all parts clean) the transmission will have metal on the drain plug, thats normal and thats why they come with magnetic ones from the factory. obviously excessive metal is not good but some will be there so dont freak out.

I just got done with a auto to manual swap a few weeks ago, lmk if you have more questions

so basicly you will need....
sockets: 10mm 12mm 14mm (regular 14mm and 12 point) 17mm 27mm 32mm (deep and regualar is good)
wrench: 10mm 12mm 13mm (ratcheting one helps for 13mm) 14mm 17mm
2 breaker bars
pb blaster
all kinds of extensions
socket/rachet adapters
pry bars
plastic bag to keep all hardware in
sharpies to lable plastic bags
jack to help support transmission and motor
screwdrivers are always good to have
something to catch fluids in so you dont have to lay in them while working

Its not hard. I do this often and get it done within an hour. Bring your hand tools, extensions, and a breaker bar. If you have an electric impact even better. I basically go to work, remove mounts, crossmember and let the motor drop on the floor with trans attatched. Finish unbolting trans and pull it out. Its all about time. Nothing in the junk yard will stay pretty anyway.

Because it's one less thing to do, and it doesn't get in the way of anything. It doesn't really matter either way, it's personal preference. If im pulling parts off a junkyard car, i like to do the least amount of work possible.

And now that i think of it you are going to need to pull the crossmember for the 5-speed swap. Forgot about that.

You can remove it from the hub and not the trans, gomba. Those are sometimes a bitch to get out because of the c-clip. I have an axle popper tool that makes it super easy, but not everyone has one. And they try to use screwdrivers and pry bars.

Thanks for the tips. Man, this is more work than I had thought. Why drilling the hole in the firewall? The Auto & Manual cars really have different firewalls? Most of the time a hole is already there they just plug it with a rubber or plastic plug.

What all is required for wiring? I could be prepared to spend a little more money, but on a tight budget and not sure how much they would charge me for the wiring. And wouldn't this require taking the ECU?

Not keeping the flywheel, so leaving that on the engine. Will get lightweight one with new bolts.

I'm going to get a complete list together and try to get another quote from the scrap yard. He quoted me $380 for everything, but that wasn't including the wiring and I forgot to mention the cross member.

The firewalls are different, but drilling is not bad if you have the right bits.

The wiring will be well worth the money, but the car will run on the auto ecu. It will be a tad rough but it gets the job done.