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Thread: Battery Relocation Question

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Posts: 21-30 of 36
2008-06-11 01:26:45
#21
For those who were wondering about the boese engineering piece... here is how it came out... I am super duper happy with it... aside from shortening my power wire, it is very clean

2008-06-11 01:38:45
#22
Looks great, thats a nice quality piece. One question though, does the battery have to be sealed to pass tech inspection at the track?
2008-06-11 02:42:17
#23
Originally Posted by squirlz
Looks great, thats a nice quality piece. One question though, does the battery have to be sealed to pass tech inspection at the track?


I guess that would depend on the regulations... our drag strips, No, because they do not inspect... auto-x or road racing, I'm not positive... but it wouldn't be hard to put a box around this piece as well, you would just need longer bolts to mount it inside the box.
2008-06-20 00:42:47
#24
Well got my stuff together. I just hope I have everything now before I disconnect my battery.
2008-06-21 00:48:18
#25
Well I installed mine all today. And my car didn't start at all. I talked to ToKeS about this. and together we couldn't figure it out.

I did everything that he did except the breaker in the rear. I used 4 gauge amp wire from and old setup. And 4 gauge battery ground, and also a new 4 gauge battery ground from the block back to the stock frame right where the battery tray was located.

What was happening was that after everything was hook up.. I got in the car and got my ACC lights and sounds. When I went to start the car everything died. Checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood. No issues. Disconnected the battery in the trunk for about 5 seconds. Reconnected it.... power was back. Tried to start the car again.. dead. I can't seem to figure it out. But tomorrow is another day. I will kepp everyone posted.
2008-06-21 02:27:07
#26
Yeah, Wayne... this is the way I had it hooked up in my sentra as well. All I did was make sure both power wires formerly hooked up to the positive terminal were connected to the front breaker, the rear was grounded well, and the block to chassis ground was good. I never had problems.

I'll be playing tomorrow all day workin on the blue car w/ Brennan, so feel free to give me a call tomorrow... I tried to give you a call this evening, but I'll help search on what the problem could be.

When you get a chance, send me a picture of the positive side of the stock distribution (at the pos terminal) and we can check what the wires that go to your alt & starter look like. There's a few.
2008-06-21 05:02:10
#27
From the sounds of it you ran a long ass wire up to the front for the ground???you serious? grounds are usually shorter if you think about it.I would try to run a shorter ground and see what happens.Make sures its on a good part of the chassis and sand down so the metal is exposed.
2008-06-21 10:59:01
#28
Originally Posted by gEE805
From the sounds of it you ran a long ass wire up to the front for the ground???you serious? grounds are usually shorter if you think about it.I would try to run a shorter ground and see what happens.Make sures its on a good part of the chassis and sand down so the metal is exposed.


No, incorrect.
2008-06-21 11:33:13
#29
Well I was talking with Matt on AIM last night and he said I should try a bolt though ground this time.

On the rear I only cleaned an area down to metal with sand paper and then attached it with a sheet metal screw. He said that this is the problem.. So we will see.
2008-06-21 17:58:27
#30
My update... Come to find out it was the ground in the trunk like some have said. Thanx to Ameen, Matt and Rob for there trusted advice they were correct. I went ahead an drilled out a 1/4 hole in the trunk sheet metal and used a bolt and nut combo. Worked like a charm.

Here are some finished pics. Came out really nice I think. I am going to move on to relocating more of the wires to hide them in the future. Gotta keep that clean white engine bay looking right.





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