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Thread: sr20ve rwd oil pump failure

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Posts: 21-30 of 31
2013-08-13 10:26:18
#21
Originally Posted by 5speed
Originally Posted by jodrift
Hi
i got a sr20ve into my trueno, so its a rwd application with a sr20de bottom


im running it with a ve30de modified cam sensor with the stock sr20 chiped computer

at my last race yesterday i was chasing, and suddently my 'vtec' goes off and i stop the motor it look like a lost my oil pressure
amd then i remove the crank pulley, i got an allumum g-spec and SURPRISE


i heard so many stories about harmonic that make explode oil pump with a alluminum pulley, but now i got the proof,
i want to change the pulley with a ati one, or something cheaper with damper, what do you guys recommand me do you have any part number
does i still need that little spacer, or need to get the pulley machined
where is the best place for prices i can order my new pump and pulley
ps: i usually speak french so my english is sometimes bad



Noticed you use the det three belts aluminum crank pulley. Did you remember to machine 3 mm from the back side of pulley? Might explain your problem.


no i didnt?
there nothing from the pulley that was touching the pump,
why i have to remove 3mm?
i think that if a do that the belt is not gonna be align with the alternator and water pump pulley
2013-08-13 19:04:09
#22
Refer to the fourth scenario down: de crank pulley to ve oil pump, a no no

http://www.sr20-forum.com/howto-s/24618-how-crank-pulley-oil-pump-spacer-all-common-combinations-explained.html


Also from Mazworx's VVL Conversion Kit:

"In our kit, we provide a new front cover/oil pump. You can choose to use the old oil pump if you choose but
make sure you take it apart and inspect it before installing it. Recommended is when you install the new front
cover/oil pump, is to get the block deck resurfaced with the front cover/oil pump on it. This is properly mate
your new headgasket and cylinder head together. Once that is done, you will see a crank collar spacer provided
in the kit. You will need to have the back of your OEM pulley or any pulley you plan on using, 3mm machined off
the back of it.
You will install the kit provided crank collar spacer in front of the factory thick crank collar. This
will make sure that your other accessory pulleys will line up."

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=mazworx%20vvl%20conversion&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CC8QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mazworx.com%2Fcontent%2Finstructions%2FVVL%2520Head%2520Conversion%2520Info.pdf&ei=xHoKUqbbGsGyyAHIzYCIDg&usg=AFQjCNGlzeuNwavVpKgdUXVXw0z4fe78gw


You probably crushed the VE oil pump when the DET crank pulley was installed.
2013-08-14 00:01:51
#23
it make sens now, but do you think that even if i crush the pump by instaling like that, i can make something like 6-7 drift events before it broke?

i had a problem with my cam sensor that were buging, i change 2 times the trigger sensor inside, do you thing that it can make a big harmonic noize or something that can make trouble with the sensor?
2013-08-15 00:13:31
#24
Originally Posted by jodrift
it make sens now, but do you think that even if i crush the pump by instaling like that, i can make something like 6-7 drift events before it broke?



It's was hard for us to get to the bottom of your problem because your build is full of mix matching parts.

As to the motor surviving 6-7 drifting events, that not much. Conversative calculation is 10 miles per drifting event X 7 events = 70 miles, that's nothing.



Originally Posted by jodrift

i had a problem with my cam sensor that were buging, i change 2 times the trigger sensor inside, do you thing that it can make a big harmonic noize or something that can make trouble with the sensor?


Well, IMO you also made a mistake with the cam sensor and that's why it was bugging out. I have never heard of "ve30de" cam sensor, again I think mix matching parts got you in trouble.
2013-08-16 00:37:13
#25
for the cam sensor, what i made is take a maxima v6 ve30de cam sensor, because i saw somewhere that this sensor is fit there well, this is a 6 cylinder sensor so i remove the disc inside and the reader and replace it with a stock s13 sr20det blacktop disc and reader,so like that i can use my stock sr20 ecu, its all goes like bolt on stuff, and cost me only 50$ beside of that 20v cam sensor thats is around 500$
Last edited by jodrift on 2013-08-16 at 00-38-36.
2013-08-16 19:38:17
#26
Huh, learn something new, was not aware there was a VE30DE. I knew about the VG,VQ,VK and VR engine.

As to VE30DE cam angle sensor, I don't know much about it to make any suggestion, have not seen the internals. My only concerns would be fit of the rotor to the end of the SR20VE exhaust cam slot. How tight is the fit? Any slop would cause problems. Another thing, since you swapped out the disc and postition sensor for the sr20det, you can double check the install by checking the ouput voltage of the 180 signal. Have somebody hand crank the engine to tdc and so you can test the voltage on 180 signal terminal. If all else fail just get a 20V cas. There are reputable people on this board selling used one.

Here's a good thread to help with your build. Go down 20 posts. He talks about the neccessary crank pulley mod. Also a little unknown fact about using the sr20ve oil pump with the rwd det crank pulley; the sr20ve oil pump timing pin does not line up with the rwd crank pulley timing marks. The marks are off by 15* for tdc.

180sx SR20V build : 240sx General Discussion

Good luck with your build and remember to put the NISSAN sticker on your wind shield.
Last edited by KillerKrossover on 2013-08-16 at 19-39-20.
2013-08-16 21:43:22
#27
Originally Posted by 5speed
Huh, learn something new, was not aware there was a VE30DE. I knew about the VG,VQ,VK and VR engine.

As to VE30DE cam angle sensor, I don't know much about it to make any suggestion, have not seen the internals. My only concerns would be fit of the rotor to the end of the SR20VE exhaust cam slot. How tight is the fit? Any slop would cause problems. Another thing, since you swapped out the disc and postition sensor for the sr20det, you can double check the install by checking the ouput voltage of the 180 signal. Have somebody hand crank the engine to tdc and so you can test the voltage on 180 signal terminal. If all else fail just get a 20V cas. There are reputable people on this board selling used one.

Here's a good thread to help with your build. Go down 20 posts. He talks about the neccessary crank pulley mod. Also a little unknown fact about using the sr20ve oil pump with the rwd det crank pulley; the sr20ve oil pump timing pin does not line up with the rwd crank pulley timing marks. The marks are off by 15* for tdc.

180sx SR20V build : 240sx General Discussion

Good luck with your build and remember to put the NISSAN sticker on your wind shield.


thanks for the hint!! dont worry i have a nissan sticker on my car, as for the cam sensor i got the idea right there http://www.sr20-forum.com/vvl/63357-maxima-cas.html, but the project was not finish so i take a chance and did it, just had to make a bit of machinage and make a custom bracket. it was working great in the beggining.
2014-01-28 02:47:13
#28
What ever happened with this?
2014-01-28 03:45:51
#29
I juste take off the motor.disasemble it all Install à brand new oil pump. My motor Guy hâve machine the deck off the motor WITH the new pump to mâke it strait for the head gasket. Usé à s13 sr20der damper. Remove 3mm ans its all go great.
For the cam sensor it was only à wire That was barely cut somewhere between the sensor and cpu.
So hère a resume of my year. You CAN hear somewhere the cam sensor glitching. And the last pass my piston broke
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qW5DqzVi9U8
2014-02-01 03:55:08
#30
That vid was awesome! 100x better than watching drifting on ELREY!

Tire belt sparks at 7:26!
Last edited by 1fastser on 2014-02-01 at 04-09-01.
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