Alright, here is what I came up with
Now, I simply did not want to remove the fusible link because:
1) I like the idea of being able to completely de-power the vehicle just by pulling one lug,
2) Being able to keep things as stock as possible and
3) Being able to return the car to stock on a whim
With this in mind, I needed a solution that I can both use the fusible link as well as being able to use a 150 Amp Circuit Breaker. I basically used the picture I found on this website while searching (read: this thread is a waste of space
). However, I did do it somewhat different as I worried about the terminal somewhat arching and finding a path to ground through open metal (even with shrink wrap (in the pics), electric tape (in the pics) and the rubber boot (as seen on the ground terminal as I left it open on the Hot/Positive/live wire for purposes of the photo)).
I also cut a piece of plywood in order to further isolate the wires from ever finding a path to ground and having a serious possibility of a fire
Parts used:
1x - XScorpion 150 Amp Circuit Breaker
2x - 1/4 x 20 Hex head bolts
2x - 1/4 I'D space (made out of hard nylon)
1x - circa 12x12 sheet of 1/2 inch thick wood block
2x - 2 Ga Heavy Duty crimp terminals from Tristate electrical supply (stock wire is 2Ga as well as the wire I used for my relocation)
1x - Roll of electrical tape
1x - 2 Ga. shrink wrap
1) I replaced the stock screw terminals with the crimp terminals from Tristate
2) Shrink wrap is used to wrap any exposed metal portion of the terminals
3) Nylon spacers are used to isolate the 1/4 x 20 bolts which are screw into the chassis of the car, through the wood and through the holes provided in the Circuit breaker
4) a circa 12/12 sheet was used in order to make sure the metal had no chance of seeing any sort of metal or ground point (causing a fire)
5) Ground terminal used is the dimpled portion of the lower battery "tray"
6) etc
The photo should explain exactly how each part is used.
Thanks much!
Now, I simply did not want to remove the fusible link because:
1) I like the idea of being able to completely de-power the vehicle just by pulling one lug,
2) Being able to keep things as stock as possible and
3) Being able to return the car to stock on a whim
With this in mind, I needed a solution that I can both use the fusible link as well as being able to use a 150 Amp Circuit Breaker. I basically used the picture I found on this website while searching (read: this thread is a waste of space
). However, I did do it somewhat different as I worried about the terminal somewhat arching and finding a path to ground through open metal (even with shrink wrap (in the pics), electric tape (in the pics) and the rubber boot (as seen on the ground terminal as I left it open on the Hot/Positive/live wire for purposes of the photo)).I also cut a piece of plywood in order to further isolate the wires from ever finding a path to ground and having a serious possibility of a fire
Parts used:
1x - XScorpion 150 Amp Circuit Breaker
2x - 1/4 x 20 Hex head bolts
2x - 1/4 I'D space (made out of hard nylon)
1x - circa 12x12 sheet of 1/2 inch thick wood block
2x - 2 Ga Heavy Duty crimp terminals from Tristate electrical supply (stock wire is 2Ga as well as the wire I used for my relocation)
1x - Roll of electrical tape
1x - 2 Ga. shrink wrap
1) I replaced the stock screw terminals with the crimp terminals from Tristate
2) Shrink wrap is used to wrap any exposed metal portion of the terminals
3) Nylon spacers are used to isolate the 1/4 x 20 bolts which are screw into the chassis of the car, through the wood and through the holes provided in the Circuit breaker
4) a circa 12/12 sheet was used in order to make sure the metal had no chance of seeing any sort of metal or ground point (causing a fire)
5) Ground terminal used is the dimpled portion of the lower battery "tray"
6) etc
The photo should explain exactly how each part is used.
Thanks much!
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