Thread: GTIR sr20det with RS6, KA24de clutch grinding into bellhousing.

I have a rebuilt gtir sr20det with a s13 fidanza lightweight flywheel (drilled to 13mm), stage 3 ACT ka24de clutch, and rs6 mazworks bellhousing swap/slave cyl.
I ran the car for a few weeks fine, clutch disengaged very close to floor, but still worked.
Few weeks ago, Clutch would no longer disengage. I could shift into any gear while it was off, Start the car in gear, and revmatch shift it/drive it, as long as I started it in gear. Bled slave cyl a bunch with a pneumatic bleeder, and the slave cyl was pushing out plenty, so I thought the worst - a clutch spring had come dislodged. So a few days ago when I had the time I dropped the motor and pulled the tranny. No clutch spring was gone, everything looked fine. I did a bit of research and in my mind figured I needed a new extended cylinder for the slave (which I have heard has been an issue before). But today I was putting a new throwout bearing in and noticed something peculiar. My clutch disc had ground out a portion of my transmission. In the rs6 "swap guide" I had read that a ka24de clutch was the one to use, now im wondering if certain clutches are not compatible, or if perhaps the s13 flywheel/kaclutch combo maybe somehow caused this. or maybe just the act is too big?

Any thoughts? I may just grind out that section of the transmission and tig weld on a section to the exterior to protect it from the elements, or I have a brand new stage 2 spec clutch for a sr20det (rwd) I may see if it works (Would rather not, only stage two, and spec...)

Anyone else had an experience like this with a rs6 and ka clutch? Or issue with a rs6 clutch not disengaging?

Why did you use the S13 flywheel?
What made you think it would work?

The S13 flywheel, Im sure is not thick enough and its the reason why the engagement point of the clutch was so close to the floor.

The swap guide refers to using a KA24DE clutch (disc & pressure plate). [not the flywheel along with it]

The S13 flywheel is what I refer to as the big flywheel, where the B13/B14 flywheel is the small one and the later JDM Primera would be a mid size.



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That's what I would do if you have not already turned down the flywheel.

Gregv's flywheels are better now, no machining needed. Although the alignment pins for the pressure plate may or may not line up for you, depends on the clutch kit used i guess.

its a sr20det flywheel. I found that the only difference between sr20det RWD and gtir flywheels are the flywheel bolts are larger. It bolts up and physically works. But it ground in that one spot. Its done with now. The flywheel didnt hit. I dont think so. The lip of the flywheel is almost flawless, no scratches or anything. I think the clutch pressure plate is what contacted.

hmm. I could still machine down the flywheel. But the damage is already done. I may just grind a bit more out of the bellhousing.

Gregv's flywheel (made for 225mm clutches) is much thicker than an regular DE flywheel.
I dont know the thickness of the S13, but i wouldnt think its the same.

The pressure plate is what needs to get trimmed like 1-2 mm. @Andreas Miko might be able to shed some light on this as I know he has dealt with the flywheel clearance issues in the past.

that looks very similar to mine. I wonder if he has a measurement. I have a digital micrometer I can measure mine tomorrow to compare.

That would make sense. But mine has already ground down the tranny, so Im not sure its even necessary anymore.

I'd bolt it up on a lath and trim it. Then have the pressure plate re-balanced. Just think, trimming that 1-2mm off the pressure plate will lower your rotational mass like 1/2 a gram

haha actually i have access to a lathe at school, but I dont want to trim it down just because i'd have to rebalance it.