Thread: SR20 to CD20T engine corversion

This Project would require a complete engine, ecu.... maybe trans and fuel system... Friend of mine and I have a project car, he's almost done getting all the diso potato stuff, then we found diesel stuff. If we hadn't gone this far with parts for the boost, we were thinking of going this route...

Thanks for all that great info, yea looks like completely different bell housings anyways... Damn...

It is great to see this thread come back alive, as I read through it while searching for information on the swap. I recently finished swapping from an SR20 to CD20T in a B13, and the engine continues to impress in terms of power, smoothness and excellent fuel efficiency. The latest addition to the car is a full 3" diameter SS exhaust beginning at the turbo. Nice fast spoolup, and the engine sounds similar to a DSM or Evo.

The fact that they make an RS5F32A that suits the CD20 is very good. Might it follow that a V suffix would be available as well?

If you wanted to use the stronger RS5F50V, and you had the bellhousing for a cd20 that was from an RS5F32A or V, would they bolt together, or is the gearbox side of the bolt pattern different?

Depending on what year CD20T you get (or engine code like CD20ET), you will not need that much in the way of electronics. The major component will be for the injection pump if you get a later electronically controlled version. A way around that is to run an earlier mechanical pump, for no ecu is needed, just one wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid.

It should also be noted that the CD20T and even the CD20 injection pumps have a 10mm plunger diameter, which is good for about 200whp with supporting mods, like a turbo, intercooler and exhaust. Not bad for a stock fuel system. If you needed more than that, larger diameter plungers are easily and fairly cheaply available. Also, even with the larger plungers, you will still get the same or even better mileage, due to faster injection times. Win-win.

These engines are more common in Europe... and they are NOT good. They are not good in gas mileage and arent either realiable. I wont do swap like that as you will safe nothing.

I have to agree with jagy. These engines warp their heads easily, and they run like shit.

Interesting comments. Are these CD20ET engine designation models?

I have two of these engines running for over a year now, sourced from Japan, without any issues at all. I am getting mid 50mpg, and will measure the mileage again as the exhaust is completed with full 3" (~76mm) diameter; the old downpipe was 2.5". Even during the very hot summer we had, running with a/c blasting ice cubes, the engine gave zero issues, only smooth power. No issues starting in the winter either, and neither engine has any combustion blowby.

I am also running about 2 Bar of boost, and I am slowly increasing the pressure to a projected 3+ Bar which is what the turbo will be good for, a T3/T4. The engine has no problems spooling the turbo either. I continue to be impressed.

The rb26 is based on the same architecture as the CD20, with all forged internals, piston cooling oil jets, and a main bearing girdle all coupled in an iron block. Add in a two stage factory oil filter (full flow and bypass), an oil cooler as well, and the engine seems to have the hardware for making reliable power.

Post some pics!