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Thread: 2001 P11 RR motor, keeps blowing 15A ignition fuse or runs only if you give it gas

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Posts: 1-10 of 16
2013-05-19 01:09:47
#1
2001 P11 RR motor, keeps blowing 15A ignition fuse or runs only if you give it gas
I've searched and haven't really found the "rite" answer. I got a 2001 P11 Roller Rocker motor, auto trans., ALL STOCK.

My wife was driving 1 day and died/stalled on her a couple of times. She was able to start it up every time and get it home.

I've replaced:
-alternator
-whole dizzy
-plugs & wires
-maf

What it's doing now is, will blow my 15A ignition fuse(in the engine bay) if I don't get it started and keep foot on gas. IF I do get it started, I have to keep giving it gas or it will die. I can rev as high as I want when it's running.


EGR, IACV, MAF are all tied into this 15A fuse.

Disconnecting 1 at a time. Trying to see if I can locate which 1 is bad. I've disconnected the EGR valve, nothing. Disconnect the IACV, nothing. But, when I plugged the IACV back it did run rough and idle low rpms. I do have a P0100 = mass or volume air flow circuit. Can anyone confirm that is a bad IACV? Has had the same or similar problem? If not, what might it be?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Last edited by nismos13silvia on 2013-05-19 at 01-13-15.
2013-05-20 13:29:56
#2
Check for short in the MAF wiring?
2013-05-20 14:36:25
#3
More than likely you are experiencing the same issues that 00 -01 maximas have with the iacv shorting out and causing ecu short and popping egi fuse ?
P0100 is MAF but it came on when you were unplugging items. More than likely if the car were to run for a while without blowing a fuse it will return a P0505 ISC Idle System Circuit code. The remedy of this is to replace TB w/ TPS and IACV with a known good unit and repair / replace ecu. Since you have NATS (nissan chip key) may require reprogramming of ecu to key.
You can contact Automotive Scientific Inc. Your #1 Source for ECU, TCU, ABS, EBCM, Climate Control and Speedometer Repairs they have positive reviews with the maxima community on repairing ecus.
2013-05-20 15:43:11
#4
Originally Posted by nismo_star
The remedy of this is to replace TB w/ TPS and IACV with a known good unit and repair / replace ecu.


TB & TPS? I don't think I want to replaced those yet. Throttle body is mechanical, shouldn't be an issue. Maybe TPS. I'd rather try replacing the IACV 1st.
2013-05-21 02:32:56
#5
maybe i am thinking qg18de
2013-05-25 01:51:43
#6
Went through something similar with my wife's B15 2.0. Weird idle, random stalling, etc... After trying everything, I listened to a long time Nissan mechanic and opened up the ECU. Sure as shit, there was a crack in one of the mosfet chips. A bad IACV blew the mosfet chip inside the ECU, just like the Maximas do. Had to replace the valve first and then ECU, reprogram with Consult II.

Before replacing anything else, pull the ecu, open it up and looked very carefully for a cracked/swollen/burnt mosfet chip. After that, test the IACV valve (just the solenoid needs replacing) using a multimeter per the FSM guidelines. DO NOT replace the IACV only without checking the ecu. You can have a viscous cycle of having the damaged ecu blow out the good IACV and vice versa.
Last edited by blackb13 on 2013-05-25 at 01-55-11.
2013-05-25 05:16:16
#7
When you unplug the iacv you need to do a idle relearn or it will idle like shit.. its how our cars work :/
2013-05-26 03:35:23
#8
Messed around with it some. Might be the IACV. When I unplugged the IACV and started the car. 15A fuse did not blow. Plugged it back in and BOOMED 15A fuse started to blow again.

Thanks for the heads up on the ECU short/burned chip. Electronics is my bread and butter. I know exactly what you're talking about.
Originally Posted by blackb13
Went through something similar with my wife's B15 2.0. Weird idle, random stalling, etc... After trying everything, I listened to a long time Nissan mechanic and opened up the ECU. Sure as shit, there was a crack in one of the mosfet chips. A bad IACV blew the mosfet chip inside the ECU, just like the Maximas do. Had to replace the valve first and then ECU, reprogram with Consult II.

Before replacing anything else, pull the ecu, open it up and looked very carefully for a cracked/swollen/burnt mosfet chip. After that, test the IACV valve (just the solenoid needs replacing) using a multimeter per the FSM guidelines. DO NOT replace the IACV only without checking the ecu. You can have a viscous cycle of having the damaged ecu blow out the good IACV and vice versa.
2013-05-26 04:32:34
#9
Yeah, if I had more time, I would've just ordered the chip from eBay for like $10 and attempted the repair myself, but I couldn't wait over a month for it to ship from China. Plus I had access to a Consult II so I wasn't too concerned about reprogramming the junkyard ecu. Hopefully your ecu is fine and it's just the IACV.

Originally Posted by nismos13silvia
Messed around with it some. Might be the IACV. When I unplugged the IACV and started the car. 15A fuse did not blow. Plugged it back in and BOOMED 15A fuse started to blow again.

Thanks for the heads up on the ECU short/burned chip. Electronics is my bread and butter. I know exactly what you're talking about.
2013-08-20 03:52:31
#10
Got a chance to work on the car some more. Replaced the IACV & ECU. Both are known good working condition. Now, I don't have any spark???

I'm getting tired of this car. May have to cut my losses. Especially because I do not have time to work on cars anymore.
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