Thread: Hydrolocked, fuel in crankcase, how bad is it

Question: I bought a g20 that turned out to behydrolocked. Should I be concerned about bent rods? What could cause my crankcase to be completely full of fuel, besides the oil that was there? Injector stuck on? Blown piston not compressing and just putting it into oil? The story is below.

So I just purchased a 1993.5 Infinity G20, the guy said the timing chan broke, I didn't believe him. His son was driving and said it felt like someone just reached over and turned off the key, then the yahoo decided to keep trying to start it.

I Got it cheap, got it home, took off the valve cover to inspect all was good, pulled the spark plugs cylinders 3 and 4 were full of fuel. Not allowing it to turn over.

I emptied both cylinders, tried to crank it, cylinder 2 immediately filled back up.

I then decided to check the oil (yes I should have done this first) the crank case was full of gas and oil.

I drained that and had to call it a day. The question is could this be caused by an injector being stuck open or is it something I am just not thinking of.

firstly try and sort out why the fuel is pouring in. probably stuck injector or pinched o'ring.

then you need to check compression. that will probably tell a story.

I hope the seller informed you there was a problem with the vehicle before you purchased it. NEVER purchase a vehicle with a hydro locked motor unless it's for like $50. It's probably toast.

just order a ve and call it good!

This ^^^^.

If the compression is fine, pull the injectors and send them out to WitchHunter Performance for a clean/test. I bet it's as simple as a stuck injector or a bad o-ring. FYI, WitchHunter will include the new o-rings.

Only one way for fuel to get into the cylinders and it through the injectors. Most likely previous owner removed the injectors and did not properly install them back, resulted in pinched injector o'rings. This happens all the time. The stock injectors are hard to seat. To check for this, just remove the rail with injectors attached and put the key in the on position to prime the fuel pressure. You will see the fuel drip from the injectors if this was the case.

If the engine ran while the cylinder hydro locked, kiss the engine good bye. Most likely since the previous owner said the chain snapped.

Alrighty, drained the engine, put new oil in did a compression test got 0-0-90-35 needless to say the engine is toast.

Now unfortunately my only web surfing option is my phone at themoment, and for the next few week and trying to find a bunch of swap optons is hard with a limit of 4 tabs. I am looking at a sr20de or a sr20ve my question is (and I wll go searching on my own) how muc is a realistic estimate for an SR20de or Sr20ve.

The SR20DE only need an engine, the VE I would need the engine, clutch, and wiring for cams. I could use the G20 harness for both

You can use a DE clutch on a VE, that's what I'm doing and it's working out great. You don't necessarily need to wire up the cams to get the engine to run, it'll just be stockish power levels. Swap the DE maf and DE injectors on it and you can use the stock ECU.

2 questions, can I swap an OBD2 engine from a 200sx ser into a 93 g20. If so what is a fair price for an engine wit 120k on it

I wouldnt pay more than $400